Dave_Hicks

There are a ton of cutters on MakerWorld that would work just fine for fiber. They are common as cutting filament and PTFE tubes is a staple of printer maintenance. This one uses a common box cutter razor blade: https://makerworld.com/en/models/870732-filament-and-ptfe-tube-cutter-v2?from=search#profileId-1709412

Success! Decided to just dive into the deep end with an empty (backup) housing. Mounted a 40mm ASA printed port extension with a dome port and dove it to 106 feet. Nothing imploded and trigger the leak sensor. Using standard Nauticam orings.

I'm going to drop a housing off a long deep pier tomorrow and assess. Then dive it if all looks good.

Tomorrow i am going a local Seattle dive site, Cove2, which has a pier over pretty deep water. I will drop it down and see what happens. If it passes, i can dive it to 100 ft or so on a proper dive, sans camera.

That is certainly possible, at least one end cap. Plug the other end with an actual Port. Only issue is that now you are testing two parts and might not know which one fails. Is the pressure pot big enough for a housing?

My area of expertise!

I'll give DaVinci a try.

DIY n120 Port Extensions for Nauticam Housings I have been working on water-tight, pressure-proof 3D prints for a while now. I've been using some Port Floats for well over a year now that are still in perfect shape without a failure up to 100ft/30m across over one hundred dives. I recently bought an old Olympus Zen glass dome port that should provide some perfect glass for a Curved 60mm Macro Port. I want to make a port body to receive the glass for that project. I figured a good stepping-stone along that path would be to first make a Port Body Extension Ring. Afterall, it is just a port that opens on both ends. :) I made a rough draft design last week and iterated 5 or 6 prints tweaking the design and precise dimensions to get a perfect fit. I experimented with different materials as well, trying PETG, ABS, and finally ASA. The PETG prints came out fairly good, but I find that my printers just do a better, cleaner job with ABS or ASA. Smoother, cleaner, less stringing. ABS and ASA are also lighter weight and stronger in most ways than PETG along with better temperature resistance in hot environments. The final ASA protype print that I made was the cleanest off the print plate of all the iterations. I am using the same printing parameters that worked for watertight port floats, but these are much thicker and stronger. Testing: I have only tested the 3D printed port extensions by pulling a vacuum in the housing. No leaks after 24 hours. The next step is to test under pressure. Lacking any sort of pressure testing apparatus, I will probably just dive it to 30 meters in my old D850 housing with no camera installed. Any suggestions on how or where to "Safely" pressure test a housing locally in Seattle would be welcome. Ideally, I would want this to work to at least 50 or 60 meters so provide a safety margin. For reference, Nauticam advertises 100-150 meters. The port bodies are 12-14mm thick. My port floats have not failed at 30meters and they are only 2mm thick. CoPilot AI seems to think it should be good to about 17bar or 173 meters. I decided to make 20mm and 40mm extensions to start with. My CAD design is parametric, so I can just plug in any value from about 15mm on up to create the model. I have not tweaked the design for n100 size ports, but that should be straightforward if I pursue that option. I have several lens combos that need extension: 20mm: 60mm macro port + 20mm for the Nikon 105Z lens 140mm dome port + 20mm for the Nikon 8-15mm fisheye lens 40mm: 140mm dome port + 20mm + 20mm extension for the Nikon 8-15mm + 1.4 teleconverter 70mm: 8.5" dome port + 70mm for the Nikon 16-35mm lens I use the 105mm and 8-15mm fisheye all the time. I bought a second 20mm extension so I can shoot both conveniently. However, I need to swap them around all the time if I want to shoot both the 105 and 8-15+TC in the same time frame. A 40mm port body dedicated to the 1.4TC setup would be a terrific addition to my collection. A quick note on pricing of various options: Saving money is NOT the goal here, it is much more about the satisfaction of building something myself. And building something that is unique and otherwise not for sale anywhere, like a custom Curved Macro Port. But it is interesting just to show what is possible. Printing with ASA costs about $2 USD in filament and 20-30 minutes of post processing labor, sanding, etc. Nauticam sells a 20mm extension for $390, 40mm for $430 USD. A rough quote from PCBWay is $165+shipping for an anodized aluminum CNC manufactured 40mm part based on my design. Sunk cost: Bambu P1S 3D printer sells for $399. One roll of ABS filament is $20 and enough to make ~10 port bodies. Labor cost for a retired engineer pursuing a passion project: $0/hour Here are few images of the port bodies: 20mm and 40mm: PETG, ABS, ASA. A Nauticam 20mm is over 200g. My ABS 20mm is 95g, the 40mm is 150g. 40mm ASA with Nauticam 70mm 40mm port body with 170mm dome port - Vacuum testing with Nauticam housing

Hmm, sounds like I need to turn tail and flee! I don't care enough to shoot and process RAW video. I guess the best I can do is a bit of tint & temperature tweaks in ClipChamp.

I I don't do a lot of video editing but when I do I often want to change the white balance in a short clip. Most of the free and basic video editing apps that I have tried can't change white balance. I don't want to spend a lot of money or get an expensive subscription, so can anyone recommend a simple video editor that is able to change white balance at a low cost.

Wow, someone found a way to charge $50 for a box cutter blade that sells in bulk for $5 per 100 count. :) I am sure that sort of precise alignment is important in some networking applications, but it's way overkill for this purpose.

With the right tool of course - no scissors! You don't need any special tools to cut fiber. I just use a >fresh< sharp utility cutter blade. Put the cable on a block of wood, lay the blade over the cut point, tap it with a small hammer to make a fast clean cut. Works perfectly every time.

Great. Message me with how much you want, and what combination of connectors. Do you want me to cut the cable, how long, etc.

That's exactly what my connectors are designed for. The connection parts are all soft TPU rubber and the 180deg straight parts is designed to bend and flex. The tall vertical is the 180deg connector. Bendy and grippy. Send me a private message with the connector layouts you want. In general: Strobes with the connection on the back (Retra) work best with a 90deg elbow connector Strobes with the connection on the side (Backscatter, Inon) work best with a 180deg connector Housings can go either way. I use 90deg for the Nauticam ports on the top of the housing (Image below with both Backscatter and Retra strobes on Nauticam housing)

I have been meaning to make one of those. Someone asked me for some of those... I will see if i can knock that out.

You can find them here. A review or rating would be appreciated! https://makerworld.com/models/846729?appSharePlatform=copy

Shipping to Australia would probably be about $30 USD.

I will order! Share a picture of the connectors you want, the terminology is sort of fluid. This is an Inon/S&S 7mm connector which is the lowest common denominator.

I think I would set the minimum quantity to 4 or 6 meters. Two or three pairs of 1 meter cables. I just checked and my cost for 30 meters + shipping is about $9 USA per meter. That is 613 muti-fiber, 2.2mm. The good stuff. I will include the connectors for free. Add $10 for USA shipping. Shipping inside Canada I think is similar. I anyone wants international shipping and is wiling to pay any tariff costs, we can discuss shipping costs. So that is: 36+10 = $46 for 2 pairs of 1 meter cables 54+10 = $64 for 3 pairs of 1 meter cables If I can get at least 2 people to commit, I will go ahead and place an order today. I will use the rest. I wear them out after a few years, and I give away optical cables to my dive buddies as needed. So, I go through whatever I have available in several years. I think I'm down to my last 5 or 6 meters right now.

I was thinking about ordering a new batch of cable to Seattle. I could order a bunch and ship some off to wherever. I will be heading to canada in two weeks and could drop some in the mail. Probably 6 meters minimum. I was considering about $200 worth which is around 25-30 meters. Also, i just updated my connector design and they are better than ever. Happy to share some of these too.

Just get an MF-2 or 3. They are much better while sharing what was great in the Miniflash form factor.

Did you try cleaning the optical port with a q-tip? The MF-2/MF-3 strobes are a big improvement over the MF-1 in almost every way. Very reliable and functional.

I mostly use the cooler bags to transport my camera to and from dive boats to pad and protect.

I just shared a couple of new Nauticam / Nikon Zoom Gears on Makerworld. Nikon 8-15mm with 1.4 TeleconverterThis is a great lens combination that will give you a little more reach with the excellent 8-15mm fisheye lens and Kenko 1.4TC. (other TC's may work, assumes a 20mm length) While the 8-15 is a zoom lens, it's really just 8mm circular or 15mm wide angle. Many people dislike the circular effect, but it can be a fun party trick. However, adding a 1.4 TC gives you some more reach in the wide angle mode making the zoom function much more interesting for this lens. Be careful not to zoom in too much and vignette the edges. https://makerworld.com/en/models/2594402-nauticam-zoom-gear-for-nikon-8-15mm-with-1-4-tc#profileId-2862921 Nikon 14-24mm Z-mountZoom gear for the Nikon 14-24mm Z-mount lens. Note there is also a 14-24 v2 lens which would not work with this gear. https://makerworld.com/en/models/2584588-nauticam-zoom-gear-for-nikon-14-24-z-mount-lens#profileId-2851033 More Scuba and UW Photo designs:Scuba: https://makerworld.com/collections/16165676 UW Photo: https://makerworld.com/collections/16165730

One of my dive buddies (another PNW diver DerekS) made some custom BS snoot masks as well. The most interesting was a pattern with multiple slits and then vertical and horizontal options.