Dave_Hicks

I just got a request for an Atom Knob from a frustrated cold water diver. I made a pretty cool replacement and will test it this weekend. Atom HF-1 Retra Miniflash https://makerworld.com/@awkward_swine/collections/16165730?appSharePlatform=copy

1) Agreed, the Maxi is > Pro Max II. Slap on a 4500k filter and call it day. Don't talk to me about "quality of light". Dump your 32 AA batteries in the recycle bin or donate them to your Inon wielding buddies. 5) HF-1 is heaver then the Maxi in the water, by just 2 jumbo-Stix cubes The Maxi based system is heavier on land (barely) and just two float blocks give it parity in the water. So not that big of a difference. But the Maxi wins on brightness by a decent margin.

Amazing! Love the bright pink an the hosing on around the cable. Super fun!

Maybe the answer is the Backscatter Atom strobe? Smaller than any Retra, more powerful than an Inon, good battery life and excellent snooting/macro capabilities while retaining enough ommph for Wide Angle.

TPU for AMS is indeed very stiff (68d) and not suitable for this use case. You need to get a TPU 90 or 95A which are much softer, any brand will do.

I've not seen one. It's not a common lens in UW use so far. It's not hard to make one, but you need to have one in hand to take the measurements.

The next step is a curved glass macro port. Already have the glass...

Cool, i love the style! Have you tried it out? The offset spotting light always made the Inon strobes tough to snoot with. Hopefully the lens in the OS-1 compensates. I have been using the Atom Snoot for a few months now, i just forgot to share it!

Backscatter Miniflash adapter for Atom Strobe Convert your OS-1 Miniflash snoot to work with your Atom Strobehttps://makerworld.com/en/models/2718050-snoot-adapter-os-1-to-atom-strobe#profileId-3010574 I have had the Backscatter Miniflash MF-1 and MF-2 strobes for many years and love the OS-1 Snoot that this small strobe was designed around. It's probably the best snoot on the market, accurate and easy to use. The new Atom strobe is more powerful than the Miniflash models, but not much bigger. It's pretty much replaced my MF-2 strobe. But I really didn't want to buy the new OS-2 snoot for it. It turns out that the new model uses the same exacted optics and lens module as the older OS-1 snoot. It just uses a new mounting part to attach to the strobe. I have designed an adapter with very similar dimensions as the OS-2 snoot, and it works perfectly. The light cards from the OS-1 will also work in the updated snoot. Directions:Remove the four M3 screws that hold the aluminum optics front end module from the OS-1 snoot. You will need a 2.5mm allen key wrench. Use four M3 20mm screws to attach the adapter to the OS-1 optics module. Do not over tighten, just slightly finger tight. Do NOT use a screw longer than 20mm or you will very likely crack the glass in the optics module. Filament Choice:I strongly suggest using the recommended PETG for this model. PLA might work in the short term, but PLA does not wear well in the water and sun. It might break unexpectedly when exposed to the elements.

I have already designed the n100 part. I need to borrow a Sony housing for a couple of days to refine the fit and do some vacuum testing. I'll be diving up in BC again this weekend, so perhaps I'll be able to produce the final n100 parts in a couple of weeks.

3D Printed n120 Port Body Extensions for Nauticam https://makerworld.com/en/models/2728055-n120-port-body-extensions-for-nauticam#profileId-3023087 NOTE: This is a technical print with a mission critical application. Failing to follow all of the suggested settings could result in a non-viable part. There are many accessories for Nauticam Underwater Housings. One of the most essential are Port Body Extensions that are used to configure the length and offset of Macro and Dome ports to work with specific lenses. At some point I needed multiple copies of several ports extensions to support a growing family of lenses. Rather than buying more extensions, I decided to take on the engineering challenge of 3D printing a fully watertight, pressure resistant version of the parts. The result is a full set of n120 port extensions for Nauticam housings. Others and I have made many dives to well over 100 feet / 30 meters with several of these printed port extensions. Every dive with the printed port extensions were 100% successful with no leaks or loss of vacuum. Just as good as the real thing. The one difference from the OEM part is that they don't have a locking mechanism. However, as they fit very snuggly after being rotated into position they are not going to come off. If under a vacuum or under the pressure of submersion, it would be nearly impossible for them to come off. While I have not tested much beyond about 30 meters, I have confidence that these parts are strong enough to go much deeper. In the interest of caution, I suggest not diving beyond about 40 meters with these parts. If I am able to conduct tests to greater depths, I will update this suggestion. NOTE: Just as with OEM ports, I recommend having a strap wrench available to help remove port extensions if you have trouble doing it by hand. If port extensions are left installed for an extended period, the lubrication will dry and it may be very hard to rotate the port off. For better leverage, keep the port extension locked to the housing and rotate the port off. Use the strap wrench if you need more leverage and grip. Rubber gloves also help with grip. Print Plates with the most common extension sizes are included: 1. 20mm 2. 30mm 3. 35mm 4. 40mm 5. 50mm 6. 70mm If you need a size not included, let me know and I can easily generate a new one from the Parametric CAD model. Before diving a housing and camera using these port extensions I strongly suggest first: · Test the seal with an empty housing on the bench using the vacuum circuit for 24 hours. · Perform a test dive with an empty housing to gain confidence in the seal and strength of the printed part. Print Preparation: To get the strongest and most successful part possible, it is recommend to use a printer with a heated chamber and two print nozzles. The support material will be stronger and cleaner with a second nozzle. Using a single nozzle can weaken the part. The H2D, H2C, and X2D all meet this criteria in April 2026. Printing ASA or ABS without a 65C heated chamber will result is weaker layer bonds. You want this part to be as strong as possible. I have also created versions of this part with PETG, but not tested this material in the water. If you choose to attempt PETG, the settings for filament and slicer listed below should be largely the same. (substitute nozzle temps 5C higher than the default for PETG rather than the ASA values suggested) After printing, carefully remove all of the support material. Be careful not to scratch or dent the sealing surfaces in particular. These are o-ring groove, and the inner surface at the top of the ring. The sealing surfaces should be filed and sanded using medium grit 400 and fine grit 1200 sandpaper. After sanding wash the part with soap and water using a toothbrush. Repeat sanding if necessary after inspection. Install a Nauticam original o-ring in the printed port extension. Apply a light sheen of white PTFE lubricant such as Nauticam provides. (Tribolube, Cristolube) Do not use Silicone lube on these silicone orings as this can cause the orings to swell and leak. Vacuum test the printed port body extension and o-ring in your Nauticam housing for at least 24 hours before attempting to use it underwater. If the vacuum circuit changes from Green to Flashing Yellow or Red, you have a bad seal. More sanding or a full reprint may be required. Note: if the vacuum circuit light is Solid Yellow or Red, that indicates a weak battery in the circuit. Install a fresh battery and retest for 24 hours. Print Profile Settings: Filament Settings: · Bambulabs ASA dried for 12 hours · Flow Ratio: 1.1 · Shrinkage 99.5 · Retraction .55mm · Nozzle Temp: 270 / 275C · Bambulabs Support for ASA dried for 12 hours Slicer Settings: · .4mm nozzle · .1mm layer height · 10 wall perimeters · .5mm outer wall, inner wall, top surface · 1.5 bridge flow · Concentric top / bottom surface pattern · 2mm top / bottom shell thickness · 100% infill (with 10 wall there should be NO infill) · 150mm/s outer and inner wall speed · 100mm/s top surface speed · 25mm/s bridge speed · Enable Support ON · Tree(auto) support in Tree Organic Style · On build plate only ON · Remove small overhangs ON · Support base DEFAULT · Support interface SupABS · Top Z distance 0

I just uploaded a new design for a Optical Sync Cable Port for Nauticam Housings. @Grantmac and others have been asking for these for a while. They feature a cool, print-in-place rotating turret just like the OEM part. https://makerworld.com/en/models/2726041-optical-sync-cable-port-for-nauticam-housings#profileId-3020623

Optical Sync Cable Port for Nauticam HousingsThese plastic caps for the optical ports of your Nauticam Underwater Housing are one of the most lost and misplaced items in all of underwater photography! This design is a perfect replacement or spare part to carry with you on scuba diving expeditions. It fits any standard 7mm connector on underwater sync cables. It features a print in place rotating turret just like the OEM original part. Print these connectors in PETG for best results in underwater and outdoor environments. PLA may work initially but will likely swell, crack, or otherwise fail eventually. Print with PETG enabling supports and specify PLA support interface so the turret part breaks free successfully. After removing the tree supports from the center, use a long thin pick to remove the PLA support interface ring. An outer brim may help to ensure a successful print. https://makerworld.com/en/models/2726041-optical-sync-cable-port-for-nauticam-housings#profileId-3020623 If you want to make your own Sync Cables, see my other model for sync connectors and details to source multi-core fiber. https://makerworld.com/en/models/846729-diy-optical-fiber-sync-cable-connectors#profileId-1454437

The lower price of the Maxi should ease some of the analysis paralysis. It's 8mm wider, not a significant difference at the end of the day. If you add in the 16 or even 32 AA batteries you need to carry for the Max Pro II strobes, you come out way ahead for the Maxis in the packing size and weight comparison. I pack four 21700 cells for a pair of Maxi (or HF-1) strobes, and two more 21700's for my focus light. The focus light is good for two dives, so it gets swapped more often. The strobes will be good for at least two days of diving at 500 shots/day with capacity to spare. A single 4-cell charger will take care of everything.

It does have a focus light, and the accessory LSD snoot uses it. High and Low settings where high is 400 lumens. It blinks off when firing the strobe. The optional 6000-lumen video light is a separate mode and can't fire the flash in that setting. The power level dial can lower the intensity in 16 levels.

The Maxi is more powerful than the Pro Max II and has similar coverage. It is a colder light and benefits from a warming filter or diffuser.

Yes, the Maxi is bigger but not all that much. About 8mm more in diameter and 27mm longer. Honestly, I can imaging you would notice in active use. And there is no booster to bulk up the Maxi, where the Pro Max all be requires the booster for decent battery life. Yes, video light is optional and will save $200usd. It's a nice to have feature and the strobe has power to spare for the 5000 lumen light.

Consider the Retra Maxi strobe, not the Pro Max. It's brighter, faster, longer battery life, and include excellent video lights. I am not sure who the Pro Max is for, but it is not the best Retra anymore for most people.

The WWL-C is so good, that paying extra for a Nauticam system is well worth it. Some other brands might be adaptable, but the Nikon 24-50 / WWL-C combo is a killer.

If you like nikon lens options, consider a used Z8 or even the Z5-II. A used D850 system would be a great option. Still excellent but old enough for great discounts. I've not held a Z6, but perhaps it will grow on you. Generally the screens stay closed and one rarely touches them, for what it is worth.

You can use the Nikon port60 for the 60mm lens and add a 20mm extension to shoot the z105mm lens. Two lenses, one port. Both lenses are excellent and the performance on a Z8, Z5II, Z6III, etc are fantastic. Even the larger combo of the Nikon z105mm is MUCH smaller (shorter) than the Sony with a 100mm lens/port. Add an MFO3 to the Sony 100 and its seriously big unit.

Someone on Facebook / Alex Mustard group just asked a similar question. I'll share the same answer I posted there: The MFO-3 only exists because Sony doesn't have a decent lens in the 60mm range. Nikon has an excellent 60mm, so MFO-3 seems like a superfluous product for that system. Instead, using an MFO-1 and SMC-3 gives you a huge range paired with the native 60mm. I'd rather shoot a 60mm and use a diopter than use a 105mm and then "shorten" it with a hack like the MFO-3.

Another 8-15 +1.4tc shot that I really like from God's Pocket. A close-focus-wide-angle shot of a decorator crab on a sponge. Decorator crabs have a lot of personality and cover themselves is clever ways to match their environment. These crabs are specially tailoring their camouflage to incorporate parts of the sponges they are living on. Nikon Z8 w/8-15mm Fisheye lens + 1.4TC, f5.6@1/50s iso100, Pair of Retra Maxi strobes with 4500k filters

The FoV is pretty good. I really like the 15mm native field, and was hoping to get just a bit more reach for scenarios where that might be desirable. Sharks, etc where you might not get to point blank range. That is where the WWL-C excels with it's near-macro to wide angle range. The 1.4tc gives the 8-15mm a taste of that flexibility. I don't see a huge compromise in sharpness so far, but will take a few more days of images to decide. Here is a Zero range 12mm full field shot from yesterday: Don't you just hate it when some undersea creature decides to have you for lunch? Giant Pacific Octopus (Enteroctopus dolpheini) Nikon Z8 w/8-15mm Fisheye lens + 1.4TC, f9@1/160s iso320, Pair of Retra Maxi strobes with 4500k filters

Today I shot the Nikon 8-15 fisheye + 1.4tc (old kenko) behind a 140mm dome using a 3d printed 40mm port extension and custom zoom gear. I think it worked very well. The "full" field seems to be at 12mm. A few shots were at 11mm and have very slight clipping. Nikon Z8 with Retra Maxi strobes 12mm full field shots: 15mm "bonus 1.4x zoom" shot: