Dave_Hicks

The 60mm is more natural on a DX camera. The 105 is still fast in my experience but it is better on full frame. The d500 has a good focus system.

Good luck. Every underwater device sealed with orings can and will fail, even if you take care. I am very meticulous and I've had a 3-4 strobe and housing leaks across 1500 camera dives. Only one (the first) can i directly attribute to my avoidable errors. I likely made other errors, but less obvious ones. Not replacing orings soon enough for example.

Excellent, hope it works well for you.

Sorry you had this problem. Hopefully Backscatter has upgraded the orings. I had one HF-1 flood, but it did not harm the strobe. Cleaned it up and it is still going strong.

Thanks for the lesson!

Just curious, Is 50hz and PAL still a thing with the near death of broadcast TV? Do TV's and computers in Europe not work and 30, 60, 120hz? Even low end TV's these days tend to do 120hz. Probably most video gets watched on phones that definitely are not 50hz. Please educate us!

Scuba Emergency Shears Camera Arm Mount Having easy access to a cutting tool is one of the critical lessons you learn as a scuba diver. Entanglement hazards like fishing line can be very scary and dangerous. A cutting tool in a pocket or leg sheath you can't reach when entangled is not going to help you. I carry a trilobite-style cutter on my wrist, but I also like to have a set of shears. They can snip heavy line or even steel wire that other knives and cutters can't touch. I always dive with my camera, so I designed this Mount that can attach to the camera arm with velcro straps. It is easy to pop on and off and always accessible. I previously used a nylon pouch but it was ugly and falling apart. This mount is a much more compact, clean and presentable. I printed with ABS but PETG would also be a good choice. PLA is not a good material for underwater objects, and it may be too brittle as well. The object is mostly solid with 3 walls, and I used 95% infill for pressure resistance underwater. Attach the mount to your camera arm (or a DPV, Scooter, etc) with velcro straps or zip ties. The design of the generic ER shear I use is extremely common, so its likely to work with many brands. Download from MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1694576-scuba-emergency-shears-camera-arm-mount#profileId-1796682

Scuba Emergency Shears Camera Arm Mount https://makerworld.com/en/models/1694576-scuba-emergency-shears-camera-arm-mount#profileId-1796682

Pockets can be challenging in a dry suit with heavy gloves. Its surprisingly difficult put something into the pocket and secure it successfully.

Looking good! You may want to mount a spotting light. I currently use a simple and cheap Orcatorch 710V. Small, simple, good battery life.

I have done it both ways. Currently i have a bolt snap on a short bungie and clip the hard cap to my waist d-ring. I have seen others make a custom neoprene cover.

The WWL-C + 24-50mm combo is a big part of why I moved to a mirrorless Z8 from my D850. It's an amazing combo of size and performance. I'm glad you are liking it so far!

This is how I have my arms setup with velcro straps holding the optical fibers. They sell velcro straps in a rainbow of colors, so feel free to get creative with it!

Get some velco straps to keep the cables flush against the arms.

Not breaking off is a big advantage. It's going to be a lot lighter if the strobe on that ball is on the sea bed.

Yes it can be done. You need to put a bolt through it to ensure the stem is strong enough. And use a proper oring. I would use .1mm layers, 6 walls and petg or asa for the print.

The multi core fiber is more resistant to damage. The bend radius is very small compared to toslink so you can't crimp or break to optical path as easily.

I largely avoid the burping issue by removing the cable end bushings from the housing and strobe when rinsing the camera. If you don't remove them during rinsing you will eventually end up with salt encrusting the optical path and preventing flashes.

There is a similar one on Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/857318-sea-sea-ys-d3-dial

Camera arm mount for Venture Heated Vest Controller I just designed and printed a camera arm mount for the Venture Heated Vest remote controller. I use a Venture heated vest when scuba diving in cold water for added warmth and comfort. I recently replaced my old and fading Thermolution vest with a new Venture Heat vest. Typically, this controller would be mounted on your wrist or possibly hang from a bolt snap on your BC d-rings. I had the Thermolution controller on the same strap as my Teric wrist computer. Unfortunately, I found that the Venture Controller interfered with my Shearwater computer's electronic compass, making wrist mounting impossible for me. My BC d-rings were already quite utilized, making it difficult to find the controller in the jumble. I decided a better option would be to mount the controller on my camera strobe arms. I always dive with the camera, and this put the controller in easy reach while staying out of the way. The mount can be attached to your camera arm with Velcro strips or zip ties. I used Velcro strips around the Stix foam floats on my camera arms, and it is quite secure. To put the controller in the mount, place it diagonally in the mount, with the spring button angled up. Press down on the raised edge to snap it into place. I suggest attaching a small carabiner to similar clip to the controller and then affix it to the loop on the mounting bracket for extra security. Print in PETG or ABS for best results. PLA is not great for underwater objects and might be too brittle to handle repeated installation and removal of the controller over time. (You must remove it to charge periodically.) https://makerworld.com/en/models/1642165-venture-heated-vest-controller-camera-arm-mount#profileId-1735278

I am curious what the deal is with the rash of certificate failures in the last week. Did someone not setup auto-renew on some accounts? :)

Don't buy oversized cells. The higher capacity ones are larger in diameter and may not fit It's an easy job if you can do the soldering. A cheap spot welder kit may yield better results.

The WWL ports are pretty big compared to the MWL. Typically you put a mount on your camera arm if you want to remove the WWL during a dive.

Get some Sugru

I saw one where the wires inside the hotshoe were frayed creating a short. Open the hotshoe connector to inspect. First look for loose solder connections on the circuit board, hotshoe wire bundle, and battery.