Dave_Hicks

I would guess in the range of 250g of buoyancy based on my design for the Port60. If the overall housing is smaller than N120 housings, it might be less as the diameter would have to be smaller. Just out of curiosity, how would you go about machining a hollow object with aluminum? This port floats I made include a recess and screw holes to bolt it to the port. I have no idea if the mounting holes could be made, or if it would even be practical. Maybe just attach with friction.

Yes. 3D printed and tested to 100 feet. It adds about 300g of buoyancy and helps balance the system when I have diopters attached. I have designs for the Port87, Port60, and Port60+20mm extension. I haven't shared any of these yet because they are a complex print with a number of custom configurations. Plus, it might spring a leak past the depth I've tested. I need to take it on a few dives to at least 140ft to stress it more.

One of the things that i don't like about the OS-1 snoot is that it doesn't work well unless you burp it underwater. I would make an effort to ensure your adapter will allow air to escape and fully flood the assembly.

The BS OS-1 snoot uses a diffuser and a lens to focus the beam. I feel like this works significantly better than a simple funnel type of snoot. I made restriction rings of the HF-1 strobe, and it includes a full spread 78mm wide angle restrictor, 60mm macro, and 38mm super macro. At 38mm it is snoot-like, but the beam will spread with any distance. The OS-1 is significantly more focused due to its lens and has less spread.

3d design for Canon 8-15 nauticam gear: https://makerworld.com/models/778776

Awesome! I revised the design a little to improve durability a bit. If you need another copy be sure to re-download.

Take measurements with a digital caliper of the diameter (mm) of to the zoom ring. Mount the lens on the camera, then measure distance from the mount to the base of the zoom ring. I can try to make you a zoom gear. Pay postage and i will send it to you.

That looks like a long lens. What port setup do you need?

Please try again with JPG photos.

Backscatter HF-1 Strobe Reduction Ring Set with Macro and Super-Macro restrictors This is an updated version of similar set I created last year. I decided to update and make it a bit more flexible, inspired partly by the Retra design. https://makerworld.com/en/models/1746548-reduction-ring-set-for-backscatter-hf-1-strobe-v2#profileId-1856417 There is a primary reduction ring that does not block the light path but slightly limits spread of the wide-angle beam. I've found this useful for reducing flare and glow with very wide-angle lens (fisheye, etc) in less than crystal clear water. You can add additional restrictors with 60mm and 38mm apertures. These are useful for macro scenes and help to limit illumination of background features. The rings are printed with PETG. There are three TPU rubber parts that hold the rings in place. The largest is a Bumper than can be placed on the HF-1 permanently and protects the strobe from bumps and scratches even when not using the reduction rings. I wish I'd done this when I first got the HF-1s as mine are pretty dinged up on the leading edge. Two smaller rubber gaskets are stretched over the macro rings and provide enough friction to hold the rings in place securely. Diffusors and Color filters can be used in combination with the set. Here is a comparison of the effects of the reduction rings. Shot from a distance of about 1 meter with a 15mm FE lens:

Thank you Sir, give me another!

I do this all the time. I don't find it to be a problem with the Nauticam dual flip. I use it with either two diopters like a MFO-1 and SubSee +10, or a wet wide Kraken KRL-09s and MFO-1. I usually have a Backscatter MF-2 / Snoot on one side when shooting macro. This easily maneuvers around the lenses. An HF-1 is on the other side. All of these add-on lenses make the camera front heavy, so I use a custom ring float on the macro port to offset some of the weight and improve balance.

Coiled cables seem like an instinctive recall to old, coiled telephone handset cords. They don't provide any real utility used with camera strobe arms. And if you have anything but the shortest arms, they actively get in the way. Straight cables are cleaner, more durable, and less likely to get tangled. I stop using them after sealions ate three of my coiled cables in a single weekend, and I decided to DIY rather than pay hundreds of dollars for replacements.

The 60mm is more natural on a DX camera. The 105 is still fast in my experience but it is better on full frame. The d500 has a good focus system.

Good luck. Every underwater device sealed with orings can and will fail, even if you take care. I am very meticulous and I've had a 3-4 strobe and housing leaks across 1500 camera dives. Only one (the first) can i directly attribute to my avoidable errors. I likely made other errors, but less obvious ones. Not replacing orings soon enough for example.

Excellent, hope it works well for you.

Sorry you had this problem. Hopefully Backscatter has upgraded the orings. I had one HF-1 flood, but it did not harm the strobe. Cleaned it up and it is still going strong.

Thanks for the lesson!

Just curious, Is 50hz and PAL still a thing with the near death of broadcast TV? Do TV's and computers in Europe not work and 30, 60, 120hz? Even low end TV's these days tend to do 120hz. Probably most video gets watched on phones that definitely are not 50hz. Please educate us!

Scuba Emergency Shears Camera Arm Mount Having easy access to a cutting tool is one of the critical lessons you learn as a scuba diver. Entanglement hazards like fishing line can be very scary and dangerous. A cutting tool in a pocket or leg sheath you can't reach when entangled is not going to help you. I carry a trilobite-style cutter on my wrist, but I also like to have a set of shears. They can snip heavy line or even steel wire that other knives and cutters can't touch. I always dive with my camera, so I designed this Mount that can attach to the camera arm with velcro straps. It is easy to pop on and off and always accessible. I previously used a nylon pouch but it was ugly and falling apart. This mount is a much more compact, clean and presentable. I printed with ABS but PETG would also be a good choice. PLA is not a good material for underwater objects, and it may be too brittle as well. The object is mostly solid with 3 walls, and I used 95% infill for pressure resistance underwater. Attach the mount to your camera arm (or a DPV, Scooter, etc) with velcro straps or zip ties. The design of the generic ER shear I use is extremely common, so its likely to work with many brands. Download from MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1694576-scuba-emergency-shears-camera-arm-mount#profileId-1796682

Scuba Emergency Shears Camera Arm Mount https://makerworld.com/en/models/1694576-scuba-emergency-shears-camera-arm-mount#profileId-1796682

Pockets can be challenging in a dry suit with heavy gloves. Its surprisingly difficult put something into the pocket and secure it successfully.

Looking good! You may want to mount a spotting light. I currently use a simple and cheap Orcatorch 710V. Small, simple, good battery life.

I have done it both ways. Currently i have a bolt snap on a short bungie and clip the hard cap to my waist d-ring. I have seen others make a custom neoprene cover.

The WWL-C + 24-50mm combo is a big part of why I moved to a mirrorless Z8 from my D850. It's an amazing combo of size and performance. I'm glad you are liking it so far!