Dave_Hicks

Any chance you might be able to borrow an MF-2 and try that out? It's likely that Backscatter but more effort into compatibility with the MF-2. The MF-1 was great but had a lot of reliability issues. The MF-2 is far more reliable, more powerful, better battery life, etc. If the MF-2 works with your new trigger, it would be worth considering an upgrade. Repurpose the MF-1 as a backup or off-camera strobe.

Thanks for confirming. I will dive it in a few days!

I just got my MFO today. Not wet yet, but on the bench I only see about 20cm max focusing distance on a Nikon 105 lens. Is this expected?

You are supposed to dive with these balloons on your camera? It seems a bit like a cludge. It doesn't get in your way, entangled, or create drag?

Fortunately I don't feel the need for this accessory. I have not found battery life to be an issue with the Nikon Z8. Battery life was called out often in the early reviews and spec crawls when it first came out so it was an initial concern. But it has been a non issue so far. I've done dozens of 3-4 dive days with 400-600 shots on one battery. I honestly don't even pay attention to the battery gauge most of the time unless I am going in to a high action environment like sharks or sealions. Does this sound consistent with other Z8 shooters?

I am going to try the MFO-1 with my Z8 and 105mm F-mount lens. I don't have an issue with this lens hunting in my current setup generally. I am more focused on any possible image quality improvement and expanding the working range of the lens. I ordered one this week, perhaps I'll have it by next week and can give a review shortly.

I've been to Cabo airport (SJD) a number of times since they started this Tax scam. I've not been victimized yet - thankfully. Friends on the same trips have been hit for Hundreds of dollars. My best tip is to pack your camera gear in a standard suitcase that does not scream "scuba" all over it. Pack your dive gear in bags that DO scream scuba. If you are traveling with someone, give all the non-scuba bags (with the camera gear) to one person. The other takes all the !SCUBA! bags through first. The camera-bearing person follows and tries to not look like they are together. I've skated though several times successfully using this approach. I put my Dive gear in Pelican bags which really draw attention. My wife with the regular suitcases containing the camera gear slipped past unnoticed.

I've used the 105mm F mount with a port 60 +20 as well. It should not be any different with the FTZ adapter as the Nauticam Z housings are designed to exactly position an F mount lens + FTZ in the same position as F mount bodies did.

I really only used my 60mm with a Kraken KRL-09 wet-wide adapter lens. It flips down on a 60mm to make a wide angle option. It's a good way to combine Macro and Wide on a single dive. However, when I got my Z8 I also invested in the WWL-C with the 24-50z lens. This provide much of the same range and capabilities the 60+Kraken can do, so it's a bit of bench warmer these days. The WWL-C win in nearly every point of comparison between the two. Sharper, smaller, more flexible, etc.

I use the Nikon F 105mm on the FTZ with a Z8 camera. Previously I used it on my D300, D800, and D850. (I eventually broke my original lens and replaced it with a Like New used copy) It remains razor sharp and super-fast with the Z8. I don't think anyone would complain about sharpness or slow focus with this lens. That said, if I didn't already own the F-mount I would buy the Nikon 105Z lens if your primary camera is a Z-system body. I've not used it, but the evaluations all claim that it is a bit faster and sharper than the F mount. However, the improvements are marginal and not easy to demonstrate. It is going to be a bit lighter and smaller than the F-mount+FTZ however. If you already have the F-mount, it's going to be an expensive upgrade at ~$1000 for the lens and possibly a new Nauticam port or spacer. A very optional upgrade with a low cost/benefit ratio. Long ago I used to shoot the 60mm on DX cameras like the D300. It was a natural fit on that format. When I moved to FF the 105 drops into that comfortable slot the 60mm used to hold. I rarely use my 60mm any more as a result, it is just not as good. The difference from 90mm to 105mm is not significant and I don't think it's in the favor of a 90mm format. I would be interesting to see a head-to-head with Tamron 90 and Nikon Z 105mm. If nothing else, the F16 limit of the Tamron would make it an uphill climb against your Nikon options. The Sony 90mm is not universally loved, so the Tamron probably looks like an attractive option for Sony Shooters.

I'm unclear what advantages Tamron would have over the F or Z mount Nikon 105 lenses. These are both excellent lenses - fast, sharp, reliable. The F-mount is also available on used markets at excellent prices. (ex. KEH has the F mount like new for under $400) I've yet to see any comparison between the two brands. What are you looking for in the Tamron 90?

If you are getting flare even from a pulled back position, I am guessing that your strobe power is excessive for the conditions. Strobe power too high, ISO too high, aperture too big, or some combo of these. Get closer and lower the strobe power.

Maybe caused by using a VPN or some other intermediate software or networking solution? Try using another device. Scubaboard does not always work with VPNs, I've seen errors from using one.

+1 to the suggestion to get a Backscatter MF-2. The Inon 330 is just not well suited for a Snoot. I tried the 10bar snoot and it was terrible. You will be 10 times happier with the MF-2 Snoot combo, and you'll have a spare strobe as well. I pretty much always pair the MF-2 Snoot with a larger strobe like the 330, which acts as a fill light on low power.

You should leave it on the boat but occasionally I'll forget to take it off and I'll just stick it in my dry suit pocket. if you don't have a pocket you can always get something like tech shorts that include large pockets for wetsuit diving.

Don't buy that. Use a standard stainless steel bolt snap.

Novus #1 is just a cleaner. It is a finish only with no abrasives, per the product info below. Just don't rub too hard with your microfiber. SAFE & GENTLE: Contains no abrasive chemicals, ensuring a greaseless, anti-static shine that resists fingerprints and smudges while protecting your surfaces from further damage. Perfect for regular maintenance.

Novus 1 and a very clean microfiber cloth should clean it on the inside.

Check it all. Carry on the batteries and camera body & lenses.

You should spec out an ideal system for you X-T3 and the prices you found. Perhaps there will be some ideas for substitutions or improvement.

You made some beautiful and unique images! Very inspiring. I have a buddy that is really into manual focus prime lenses, Lensbaby 56 & 28mm. I was able to design and 3d print a set of focus gears for his lenses in a Nauticam housing. It's made using his lenses a lot more practical. You are still restricted to a pre-set aperture, but at least you have some freedom with focus. I had made a bunch of zoom gears for my Nauticam setup, so I had a good starting point. Some of these lenses "telescope" as you turn the zoom ring, so gear needs to be multi-part to allow for the motion. Nauticam Focus Ring for Lensbaby Velvet 56mm lens by AwkwardSwine - Thingiverse

See if your local library has one or if there is a maker space in the area.

Can you print a copy of the part for your strobe?

You can use the Nauticam trigger but it won't do TTL or HSS. You can to rapid fire at 30fps depending to power setting with the stock trigger. However, in the Nauticam Sony housings they don't provide a trigger like they do with the Nikon model. I don't know why that is.