Dave_Hicks

I just uploaded a new design for a Optical Sync Cable Port for Nauticam Housings. @Grantmac and others have been asking for these for a while. They feature a cool, print-in-place rotating turret just like the OEM part. https://makerworld.com/en/models/2726041-optical-sync-cable-port-for-nauticam-housings#profileId-3020623

Optical Sync Cable Port for Nauticam HousingsThese plastic caps for the optical ports of your Nauticam Underwater Housing are one of the most lost and misplaced items in all of underwater photography! This design is a perfect replacement or spare part to carry with you on scuba diving expeditions. It fits any standard 7mm connector on underwater sync cables. It features a print in place rotating turret just like the OEM original part. Print these connectors in PETG for best results in underwater and outdoor environments. PLA may work initially but will likely swell, crack, or otherwise fail eventually. Print with PETG enabling supports and specify PLA support interface so the turret part breaks free successfully. After removing the tree supports from the center, use a long thin pick to remove the PLA support interface ring. An outer brim may help to ensure a successful print. https://makerworld.com/en/models/2726041-optical-sync-cable-port-for-nauticam-housings#profileId-3020623 If you want to make your own Sync Cables, see my other model for sync connectors and details to source multi-core fiber. https://makerworld.com/en/models/846729-diy-optical-fiber-sync-cable-connectors#profileId-1454437

The lower price of the Maxi should ease some of the analysis paralysis. It's 8mm wider, not a significant difference at the end of the day. If you add in the 16 or even 32 AA batteries you need to carry for the Max Pro II strobes, you come out way ahead for the Maxis in the packing size and weight comparison. I pack four 21700 cells for a pair of Maxi (or HF-1) strobes, and two more 21700's for my focus light. The focus light is good for two dives, so it gets swapped more often. The strobes will be good for at least two days of diving at 500 shots/day with capacity to spare. A single 4-cell charger will take care of everything.

It does have a focus light, and the accessory LSD snoot uses it. High and Low settings where high is 400 lumens. It blinks off when firing the strobe. The optional 6000-lumen video light is a separate mode and can't fire the flash in that setting. The power level dial can lower the intensity in 16 levels.

The Maxi is more powerful than the Pro Max II and has similar coverage. It is a colder light and benefits from a warming filter or diffuser.

Yes, the Maxi is bigger but not all that much. About 8mm more in diameter and 27mm longer. Honestly, I can imaging you would notice in active use. And there is no booster to bulk up the Maxi, where the Pro Max all be requires the booster for decent battery life. Yes, video light is optional and will save $200usd. It's a nice to have feature and the strobe has power to spare for the 5000 lumen light.

Consider the Retra Maxi strobe, not the Pro Max. It's brighter, faster, longer battery life, and include excellent video lights. I am not sure who the Pro Max is for, but it is not the best Retra anymore for most people.

The WWL-C is so good, that paying extra for a Nauticam system is well worth it. Some other brands might be adaptable, but the Nikon 24-50 / WWL-C combo is a killer.

If you like nikon lens options, consider a used Z8 or even the Z5-II. A used D850 system would be a great option. Still excellent but old enough for great discounts. I've not held a Z6, but perhaps it will grow on you. Generally the screens stay closed and one rarely touches them, for what it is worth.

You can use the Nikon port60 for the 60mm lens and add a 20mm extension to shoot the z105mm lens. Two lenses, one port. Both lenses are excellent and the performance on a Z8, Z5II, Z6III, etc are fantastic. Even the larger combo of the Nikon z105mm is MUCH smaller (shorter) than the Sony with a 100mm lens/port. Add an MFO3 to the Sony 100 and its seriously big unit.

Someone on Facebook / Alex Mustard group just asked a similar question. I'll share the same answer I posted there: The MFO-3 only exists because Sony doesn't have a decent lens in the 60mm range. Nikon has an excellent 60mm, so MFO-3 seems like a superfluous product for that system. Instead, using an MFO-1 and SMC-3 gives you a huge range paired with the native 60mm. I'd rather shoot a 60mm and use a diopter than use a 105mm and then "shorten" it with a hack like the MFO-3.

Another 8-15 +1.4tc shot that I really like from God's Pocket. A close-focus-wide-angle shot of a decorator crab on a sponge. Decorator crabs have a lot of personality and cover themselves is clever ways to match their environment. These crabs are specially tailoring their camouflage to incorporate parts of the sponges they are living on. Nikon Z8 w/8-15mm Fisheye lens + 1.4TC, f5.6@1/50s iso100, Pair of Retra Maxi strobes with 4500k filters

The FoV is pretty good. I really like the 15mm native field, and was hoping to get just a bit more reach for scenarios where that might be desirable. Sharks, etc where you might not get to point blank range. That is where the WWL-C excels with it's near-macro to wide angle range. The 1.4tc gives the 8-15mm a taste of that flexibility. I don't see a huge compromise in sharpness so far, but will take a few more days of images to decide. Here is a Zero range 12mm full field shot from yesterday: Don't you just hate it when some undersea creature decides to have you for lunch? Giant Pacific Octopus (Enteroctopus dolpheini) Nikon Z8 w/8-15mm Fisheye lens + 1.4TC, f9@1/160s iso320, Pair of Retra Maxi strobes with 4500k filters

Today I shot the Nikon 8-15 fisheye + 1.4tc (old kenko) behind a 140mm dome using a 3d printed 40mm port extension and custom zoom gear. I think it worked very well. The "full" field seems to be at 12mm. A few shots were at 11mm and have very slight clipping. Nikon Z8 with Retra Maxi strobes 12mm full field shots: 15mm "bonus 1.4x zoom" shot:

yes, that one. It was my very first 3d printed original design.

I made a preflash button blocker for Inon flashes. I made Retra Maxi knob replacements for the same reason. The knobs are the same shape and i wanted them to feel distinct.

I know that @Kiliii Yuyan is using this lens on a Nauticam housing. He may have some details about what port extension is working best.

Are you going to dive your printed port extension? I recently printed made a Nauticam n120 extension of 40mm and did a successful test dive to 106ft with it. I plan to shoot it this week with my 8-15+1.4tc.

The low tech solution would be to use so Sugru rubber putty to modify your knobs

Super. Lets see a photo of your rig with the shiny new fiber!

I have one triple clamp i have not used in a decade. I would be happy to trade it for a long clamp.

I had two transient, seal hunting PNW Orca's come right up to me and size me up for snacking about 10 years ago while I was on a safety stop. They sniffed but did not taste! I never saw them at all. Everyone on the dive boat could see everything and when I surfaced, I was like - What's going on???

I'll be shooting my Nikon 8-15 with a 1.4tc up in God's Pocket next week. I will share some photos.

Now that the n120 port extension is completed and passed its first deep dive, I wanted to create the n100 model. I made a 20mm n100 test print and it came nicely. The initial draft was made from some second-hand measurements which are rarely perfect on the first draft. I will borrow some n100 ports and a housing to refine the fit in the next couple of weeks.

There is always a better design available. I'd probably experiment with either putting a bridge across the top of those gear teeth, making sure it clears the housing sprocket, or put a thin wall behind them. Both solutions would not alter the inner or outer diameter and would significantly increase the strength of the part. Additionally, a chamfer around the base of those gear teeth could improve layer adhesion reducing breakage. Finally, using a stronger material like ABS in a printer with heated chamber would make it much stronger. The extensive stringing visible on the gear indicates that it could use some more fine tuning of the printer and filament, which could further improve the results.