Panasonic GF1

Pictures look great!

How have you found using the buttons on the 10 bar while diving?

And how do the buttons/controls feel?

I'm trying to decide whether to wait for the Inon housing, but i reckon it will be alot more expensive.

What's your thoughts, since you have used the 10 bar? how would you rate it?

Cheers

Gf1 with Leica macro lens 45mm deliver really good pictures (see also fotosub70 pictures with seatool housing and two strobes; I am using only one strobe Inon z240 and no additional wet lens).

I shoot only Macro in: M mode using pre programmed C1 or C2 modes; 100ISO; centered weighted average metering mode; focus in the center. The only things I change under water is the speed or aperture so the only button I use is the rear or back dial. And sometimes the playback to make sure the shot is ok. This is adapted to the problems below and allow me to concentrate on searching and making pictures.

Personal experience:

- the mode dial/button does not work properly on my housing so it can be frustrating under water, e.g. when trying to change to A mode; I have tried cleaning the inside wheel with alcohol but it did not help; for me this is a big inconvenience;

- it is not possible with 45mm macro lens (port) to zoom manually or to change OIS (does not make sense anyway but OIS must be on before closing the housing!); this is a big inconvenience;

- closing the lid takes some getting used to (lid must be forced against the housing before using the locks or the locks may be damaged (part plastic part metal); this is a small inconvenience;

- some buttons have dual functions obtained by rotating then; this is not optimal and may be a pain if e.g. you like to check your picture and also use the AE/AF lock; this is a small inconvenience but a back plate with one button per function would have been better (I do not understand why 10bar did not develop a back plate with one button per function: may be to use existing production lines, molds, apparatuses, etc.?).

About the Inon: looks nice in black but big and heavy; some information are now posted on inon web page. It seems that the button for changing the speed or aperture or compensation can only be rotated: this would be strange and must be checked. However it seems that there is one button per function (hopefully they work well). I also like Inon locking system. The macro lens may be focussed manually (magnets used): to be checked if the solution works fine.

About the seatool: looks light; I think they have one button per function; may be worth checking.

As a "conclusion": the seatool has some inconveniences but is "relatively" cheap (around usd 800-1000) compared to the Inon (presumably around USD 2000): if the inconveniences cited are not too important for you 10bar housing is a good option; otherwise wait for opinions on the Inon, Seatool (I have read somewhere that Patima may produce a housing for the GF1?).

Hope it helps.

Also check this page re Inon housing for GF1:

http://www.seaoptics.com.au/products/slr/inonX2-GF1.html

Hi Jofish

Really appreciate your sharing of experience with the 10bar housing

I am also trying to decide on the Seatools vs the 10bar GF1 casing. trying very hard to figure out if the seatools is really worth twice the money ... and cost twice the camera

For the 10bar casing, did you encounter any problems with using the rear dial ?

I understand that the rear controls are by friction and not geared (just like the mode dial) ... so was it easy to press (to change between SS and F) as well as rotate to change the SS and F setting ?

This is important to me as I only shoot in M ...

Thanks

Hi Eagleray,

You are right: you can press and rotate the rear dial. When you are in M mode (or C1, C2 preprogrammed modes based on M mode) you can change the aperture f or the speed SS by 1) pressing the rear dial until and not releasing it when you have f or SS highlighted, 2) keeping it pressed while rotating it in one or another direction until you get the value you want. It works fine after some practice! I am not sure why this works and the mode dial does not always work, but I assume it is because the rear dial on the housing exerts significant pressure on the rear dial on the camera...

Altogether I am satisfied with the rear dial on the 10bar housing.

The 10bar housing is really good value (under USD 1,000 or EUR 750) with a port for the 20mm lens and the port for the 45mm macro is also under USD 250 I think. I am not sure they have a port for the 7-14mm lens?

I had a Canon G10 before the GF1 and a seatool housing for the G10: I found the port changing system a bit awkward/difficult and hope it is better for the seatool GF1 housing (changing port on the 10bar housing is so much easier). Other than that the housing for the G10 was very good with all dials/buttons/controls functioning well. At a price...

The Inon for GF1 seems a beauty but so huge, with 2 optical fibers connectors for 2 strobes, nice controls and I think around 2kilogramms. A pity. On the other hand several ports seem to be available. To be checked when its is on sale.

Wish you good luck in your difficult selection/choice... and to make good pictures.

Hi Jofish

Really appreciate your sharing of experience with the 10bar housing

I am also trying to decide on the Seatools vs the 10bar GF1 casing. trying very hard to figure out if the seatools is really worth twice the money ... and cost twice the camera

 

 

For the 10bar casing, did you encounter any problems with using the rear dial ?

I understand that the rear controls are by friction and not geared (just like the mode dial) ... so was it easy to press (to change between SS and F) as well as rotate to change the SS and F setting ?

This is important to me as I only shoot in M ...

 

Thanks

Hi eagleray,

i'm using the 10bar housing for the gf1 and just brought it for a wkend dive in tioman. but don't think the pics are wetpixel worthy yet, perhaps after a few more trips. anyway, i find the ergonomics of the housing could be improved and never use the rear dial underwater. the reason is that the housing dial is spring loaded, and you need to push the housing dial in before it can engage the camera rear dial. And when you push it in, it acts as though you pushed in the rear dial and the setting changes. it is therefore very easy to press (change between SS and F), but rotating is a pain. I used the Q-menu button to change the settings underwater, more button presses, but it works always.

Hope tt helps.

SL

Hi Jofish

Really appreciate your sharing of experience with the 10bar housing

I am also trying to decide on the Seatools vs the 10bar GF1 casing. trying very hard to figure out if the seatools is really worth twice the money ... and cost twice the camera

 

 

For the 10bar casing, did you encounter any problems with using the rear dial ?

I understand that the rear controls are by friction and not geared (just like the mode dial) ... so was it easy to press (to change between SS and F) as well as rotate to change the SS and F setting ?

This is important to me as I only shoot in M ...

 

Thanks

More pics:

http://forobuceo.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=75994

for those that own the 10bar, do you think it would be possible to attach a plastic sunshade, similar to ones that came with amphibico monitors? (see attached link below)

my intention would be to attach the shade, but attach it inverted, and glue a mirror into it, enabling me to shoot from low angles without having to push my face into the sand

http://www.amphibico.com/rec/monitors.html

actually i've now seen a viewfinder attachment, something similar to this

http://www.idcphotography.com/kart/index.p...8&parent=30

the one i have seen attaches via strong rubber bands. would this concept work? would water between the magnifier and the lcd effect how the 'viewfinder attachment' would work?

actually i've now seen a viewfinder attachment, something similar to this

http://www.idcphotography.com/kart/index.p...8&parent=30

 

the one i have seen attaches via strong rubber bands. would this concept work? would water between the magnifier and the lcd effect how the 'viewfinder attachment' would work?

Yes, water will lessen the magnification. I attached a Nexus wet diopter (AKA the Woody diopter) to a custom housing with a plexiglass shield. Worked very well.

Bob

I'd be interested to hear anyone's experience using the 7-14mm w/a or 8mm fisheye with this camera, and especially any links to images. The ones I have seen so far in this thread have been excellent, but mainly macro ( unless I've missed a link somewhere ). Thanks!

My first shots in two dives with Panasonic GF1 and 8mm fisheye.

My first shots in two dives with Panasonic GF1 and 8mm fisheye.

Fabulous images, Marc!! Wonderful lighting and color.

It's really great to see the potential of the micro four thirds platform and especially the 8mm lens - you've shot some of the best images I've seen thus far.

Just curious - some of the images seem hyper saturated. Is this a factor of the GF-1 tending to take color over the top? How did you process these images?

Congrats on the great work - I may have to break down and get a housing for my GF-1.

Thank you very much for posting those, Marc - quite superb. I see your GF1 is housed in a Seatool. I'm looking at the 10-bar myself, as it is easier to get hold of in the UK, but I'm not aware that there is a port available yet for the 8mm....or does anyone know differently?

Yes, a couple of new developments from 10Bar.

They've revised the housing and now have dedicated controls and push buttons. The mode knob is bigger and higher, making it easier to work. Overall the controls have been tightened up and are smoother to work. He added a focus light screw mount hole (not sure why he skipped it to begin with...). Below is shown with the 7-14/14-45 port - it ships with gears for the 14-45, the 7-14 are extra.

The 8mm port is in prototype and it should be available very soon, like a couple of weeks.

BTW, they also now have a new housing for the GH-1.

Jack

I have mailed 10-bar to ask when they expect to ship the revised housing to Europe...and the production of the 8mm fisheye port.

I do have another question though about optical combinations. I already have an Inon UCL-165 67mm screw-on close-up lens. So technically, this can attach to the 20mm standard port. Does this sound like a sensible thing to do, and how would it compare to say, a 45mm macro?

I do have another question though about optical combinations. I already have an Inon UCL-165 67mm screw-on close-up lens. So technically, this can attach to the 20mm standard port. Does this sound like a sensible thing to do, and how would it compare to say, a 45mm macro?

i have tried this and in my opinion the results were not as good as with the 45mm macro. there was a lot of chromatic aberation and image degradation.

JackConnick - do you know if 10bar sells this new back plate seperately? do you have a price?

does anyone know where i can buy 10 bar in hong kong? is the kowloon address just a warehouse or do they have a retail shop as well?

Dear Jack,

Big improvements on the 10BAR housing for the GF1!

Is the port for the 7-14mm the same as the 14-45mm? Also, I'm thinking of getting the Oly 9-18mm, does 10 BAR have a port that will work with this lens and the GF1?

Thanks!

Best fishes,

Mike

In the UK, one of our main distributors is selling the M77x100DZ as a port for the 10-Bar and it shows on the website as being suitable for the 7-14mm and 14-45mm lenses. The 8mm fisheye port is also shown and priced, but not yet in stock ( with this distributor ).

I'm waiting for stock to arrive ( which includes the refurbished housing ), but am undecided between the 8mm fisheye vs. the 7-14mm. Obviously there is a price difference, and the 7-14mm is rectilinear, but I'd be interested to know anyone's thoughts on which would be the better of the two lenses to opt for, and why?

In the UK, one of our main distributors is selling the M77x100DZ as a port for the 10-Bar and it shows on the website as being suitable for the 7-14mm and 14-45mm lenses. The 8mm fisheye port is also shown and priced, but not yet in stock ( with this distributor ).

 

I'm waiting for stock to arrive ( which includes the refurbished housing ), but am undecided between the 8mm fisheye vs. the 7-14mm. Obviously there is a price difference, and the 7-14mm is rectilinear, but I'd be interested to know anyone's thoughts on which would be the better of the two lenses to opt for, and why?

I would go for the fisheye lens first. It has better close-focus capability for CFWA shots, and has a wider angle than the rectilinear 7-14 (180 degrees for the 8mm vs. 114 degrees for the 7-14).

On the other hand, I haven't used either of those lenses. My closest experience is with an E-P1 in a custom housing with a MFT-to-FT adapter and a Four-Thirds Olympus 8mm fisheye lens.

The proper port for the Panasonic 8mm FE for the 10Bar is M77x125DZ. They have just come out.

Jack