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Some time back, I wrote an article about creating your own fibre optic cables: a quick, easy, inexpensive and very satisfying process. In case you missed it it, a link to the piece is here.

https://waterpixels.net/articles/articles_technique/diy-fibre-optic-cables-easy-r32/

Now, many months on, a couple of additional suggestions:

BURPING

On entering the water and descending the plugs at both ends of the cables often need burping. Tiny air bubbles seem to be able to block fibre optic light transmission. Easy to resolve of course: simply remove and replace the plugs at the camera bulkhead and strobe ends of the cable.

Worth checking especially before setting up for that crucial, once in a lifetime image.

DAMAGING THE CABLES

On a recent long dive trip in Raja Ampat, my system was being hauled in and out of RIBs with the strobe arms being moved and folded sometimes by me, sometimes by the boat crew.

At some stage one of the fibre optic cables gained a small β€œcrimp” which resulted in the attached strobe not firing consistently. Annoying of course although easy to replace the cable.

This got me thinking about a way to protect the cables. For my next trip I used some cheap garden micro-watering system hose tubing to provide a protected route for the cables from the housing bulkheads to the strobes. Cost was a few cents.

I found it slightly better to cut the tubing slightly shorter than the fibre cables as this allowed for easier curves at each end.

The tubing is held against the float arms using short loops of bungee cord.

I found it worked best to push the fibre cables into the strobe plugs only on descent or at depth. This allowed for burping and avoided any strain on the connections whilst handling during entry.

In general I’ve found it better not to have fixed connections at both ends of the fibre cable. If one end can pull loose when strained (best I've found is the strobe end) this avoids breaks and overstrains especially during transportation or in rinse tanks (avoid them at all costs!). If stretched or tugged the cable will simply pop out of the strobe end bush. No damage results and the cable is easy to push back in.

The first photograps shows the fibre optic cable and the garden hose tubing; then with the fibre pushed through the tubing; "hung" on the strobe arms; and the loops to hold the tubing and cable in place.

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Dave_Hicks

Members

I largely avoid the burping issue by removing the cable end bushings from the housing and strobe when rinsing the camera. If you don't remove them during rinsing you will eventually end up with salt encrusting the optical path and preventing flashes.

45 minutes ago, Dave_Hicks said:

I largely avoid the burping issue by removing the cable end bushings from the housing and strobe when rinsing the camera. If you don't remove them during rinsing you will eventually end up with salt encrusting the optical path and preventing flashes.

I do that too, Dave, but still find the system sometimes needs burping once reattached and in the water. Totally agree on needing to remove both ends during rinsing.

bghazzal

Members

Thanks for this Tim, excellent idea - I'm very new to fibre optic cables, but now use a pair for my Kraken video light remote.
After a few light transmission issues (the first pair bought just didn't work) and no luck sourcing adequate generic cables in Indonesia, I have a pair of multicore AOI coiled cables which work fine.

But they do take a beating given the shore entries I do now, with the rig strapped to my chest. I've been thinking of finding a way to protect them, and the hose solution looks great.
Not sure how practical it is for coiled cables, would need to look into what I can source here in Japan.

I feel the ones I have won't last forever, so I'm also very interested in sourcing a few meters of the proper optic cables (613-core Fused Multi-core Simplex Cable, Polyethylene Jacket- MCQ-1000 right? Any group order planned for the future or is everyone sorted?) so i can try to DIY cables.

Cheers!

CaolIla

Members

Thanks @TimG for your solution... The funny thing is that I used the exact same pipes to go inside my floating arms

Thanks Tim, I have a couple of INON made fibre optic cables that I've been using for while, they have the INON screw mount at the strobe end and the INON made right angle attachment on the housing end. I can't say that I've ever needed to burp them, they get connected up before the dive and removed when I soak the camera post dive, I break the whole rig down to store it away till next dive. When on Liveaboards/dive resorts I do similar but without removing strobe arms.

I do use the Olympus mini flash for my trigger which has plenty of light so may be able to get enough light through any bubbles that form?

2 hours ago, bghazzal said:

But they do take a beating given the shore entries I do now, with the rig strapped to my chest. I've been thinking of finding a way to protect them, and the hose solution looks great.
Not sure how practical it is for coiled cables, would need to look into what I can source here in Japan.

I feel the ones I have won't last forever, so I'm also very interested in sourcing a few meters of the proper optic cables (613-core Fused Multi-core Simplex Cable, Polyethylene Jacket- MCQ-1000 right? Any group order planned for the future or is everyone sorted?) so i can try to DIY cables.

Cheers!

Most of my dives are shore dives in Sydney, rig strapped on and getting in and out over rocks with a bit of swell thrown in for good measure. My INON cables have stood up well so far, I don't attempt to attach them to the arms at all and they seem to survive just fine, the only time I broke one was when I handed my rig to someone else getting in. Occasionally one of the S&S connectors at the housing end pops out but mostly no problems apart from the strobes causing the arms to flop down while walking in/out from site.

For cable you may be able to use TOSLink cables, I've found that the square plugs will fit into S&S connectors after shaving them a little on the corners of the square plug. They are commonly used in home entertainment systems so might well be a lot more available. Googling trying to find the MCQ-1000 fibre is frustrating, all the links are for armoured communications cables with lots individual fibres inside and only one or two pop-up for that product and they are in the US.

1 hour ago, Chris Ross said:

For cable you may be able to use TOSLink cables, I've found that the square plugs will fit into S&S connectors after shaving them a little on the corners of the square plug. They are commonly used in home entertainment systems so might well be a lot more available. Googling trying to find the MCQ-1000 fibre is frustrating, all the links are for armoured communications cables with lots individual fibres inside and only one or two pop-up for that product and they are in the US.

Hi Chris

Yeah, the MCQ-1000 seems impossible to find in Europe as well. Hence doing those group orders a couple of times from the US where it's easily obtainable.

Agreed on the Toslink cables and they do seem more robust. I just liked the idea of having several hundred fibre strands inside the MCQ cable although I have no idea if that really makes a difference or is any different to Toslink in practice. As long as the strobes fire reliably and on demand. I'm happy πŸ˜† I do know though that it can be a slightly different story if using TTL rather than Manual or HSS.

Dave_Hicks

Members

The multi core fiber is more resistant to damage. The bend radius is very small compared to toslink so you can't crimp or break to optical path as easily.

Thanks, Dave, for the reminder. Yep, the Toslink just won't bend and fit into the bushes that I use.

Klaus

Members
(edited)

Toslink cables can be bent after heating them a bit. The bend then « sticksΒ Β» when they cool in that position. I made a curled cable by winding it around a wooden cooking spoon and placing that in the oven at 50 degrees Celsius for 30 minutes, then switching the oven off and letting it cool down. (The lady was out of town on that day.) It works nicely though I find that « realΒ Β» connectors stick more reliably in my housing’s connectors. I also use the Olympus mini-flash, so lots of light and manual mode only - TTL via an LED trigger may be a very different story.

Edited by Klaus
Typo

On 8/6/2025 at 1:58 AM, bghazzal said:

Not sure how practical it is for coiled cables, would need to look into what I can source here in Japan.

Fair point, Ben! Yeah, that struck me as an issue too. Maybe just using wider tubing?!?

The more I see of coiled ones and the tangles they can get in - rinse tank, anyone? - the more I think they are to be avoided. Even when the coil needs extending, the additional strain on the system is not insignificant. I figured it was just better to create straight cables with a couple of extra inches for flexibility.

No immediate plans for a group buy of the MCQ-1000 cable. We did one about this time last year and I think 6-7 members joined in. If there was enough demand we could look at it again. We were lucky last time that I met up with an NYC-based mate in the Red Sea and she brought it for me. Bless him, @bvanant offered to mail it last time - so that might be an option.

bvanant

Members

I can still order some if there is some demand.

BVA

On 8/6/2025 at 6:55 PM, TimG said:

Hi Chris

Yeah, the MCQ-1000 seems impossible to find in Europe as well. Hence doing those group orders a couple of times from the US where it's easily obtainable.

Agreed on the Toslink cables and they do seem more robust. I just liked the idea of having several hundred fibre strands inside the MCQ cable although I have no idea if that really makes a difference or is any different to Toslink in practice. As long as the strobes fire reliably and on demand. I'm happy πŸ˜† I do know though that it can be a slightly different story if using TTL rather than Manual or HSS.

I'm thinking more along the lines of an emergency spare. I was doing a single day's diving ahead of a work trip one time and left my cables behind. Found a store selling toslink cables and was able to rig them up and they triggered my strobes fine.

As for a supplier I found this listed on Alibaba, seems like a cheaper version of the MCQ-1000:

www.alibaba.com
No image preview

Asahi Kasei Mcs-1000p Multi Core Fiber Optic Cable For Se...

Asahi Kasei Mcs-1000p Multi Core Fiber Optic Cable For Sensor Field - Buy Mcs-500p-10 Mcs-1000p Mcs-1000p-13 Shmcsn-1000p-18-22pf(eb) asahi Kasei Sensors Mcs-500p-10 Mcs-1000p Mcs-1000p-13 Shmcsn-1000

The spec sheets I found for this and the MCQ-1000 are identical apart from

The minimum bend radius, it's 1mm for the MCQ1000 and 2mm for this product

613 cores versus 217 cores. They report the same attenuation spec for LED light.

Looks like you would need to buy a roll but the price is about equal to two finished cables.

What does that bend radius mean in practical terms? Would that cable bend inside one of those L-adapters?

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