Mafia Island: a diving destination away from the tourist crowds but rewarding for UW photographers

Mafia Island is located in the Indian Ocean, off the East African coast of Tanzania. I learned about Mafia Island from reports of several scubadivers in internet platforms, who consider it an “insider tip”. In November/December 2024 three divers (Lisi, Franz and me) set out towards Mafia in order to experience firsthand the diving and possibilities for UW-photographers.

Mafia Island is not difficult to reach via international flights from Vienna/Austria to Dar es Salaam/Tanzania. From there, the travel continues with a short 30’ flight via domestic airline. The airport in Kilindoni, the largest village of the island, is small and, accordingly, the airplanes are small too (the photo shows the main building of the airport and, to the left, the nose of the aircraft that brought us there). By default, only 15kg of luggage, including the cabine luggage, are allowed in the small aircraft. It is very positive to note, that one can book extra luggage in advance by EMail with the domestic “Coastal Airline” (https://coastal.co.tz/), in order to avoid unpleasant surprises when arriving with masses of unannounced luggage. This way, our extensive diving and photo equipment was “nullo problemo” (in order to avoid overload of the aircraft, we had to book an extra seat in advance, that remained empty).

There are several resorts located on Mafia Island, but only a single one, “Big Blue Mafia Island Diving Centre” (https://bigblumafia.com/) is perfectly positioned within the Mafia Island Marine Park, where most of the diving spots are located (the marinepark fee, that has to be paid for every single day of the stay once upon entrance, is worth every single cent). This resort is owned and managed by Maura, an Italian, who is the friendly contact person for booking and payment. She is married to a local diving instructor, native to the island, who runs the diving base (their son is working as diving guide, one can say it is a true family enterprise; also the other instructors, guides and employees contributed to a very pleasant stay including safe and wonderful diving).

Accommodation is simple, but corresponds to western standards, comprising tasty half (or, when required, full) board and aircondition. Cleaning and freeing the huts from mosquitoes with pesticides is done twice per day. At this point it is appropriate to mention that effective repellants and malaria prophylaxis are strongly recommended by our Austrian tropical medicine specialists.

Diving is done using Dhow style boats, that provide plenty of space for the few divers. They are made from heavy tropical woods and are powered by an outboard engine. When winds allow, the boats are also able to sail along silently and swiftly. Chole Bay is the heart of the natural reserve and accordingly most diving spots are located within the bay. Depending on weather, diving spots outside the bay can be dived also. Since the tidal range within Chole Bay is substantial, departure times for the two-tank boat dives are dominated by the tide, are highly variable from day to day and were between 05:00 AM and 14:30 PM during the two weeks of our stay. Despite careful consideration of tidal times, substantial currents are possible. At low tide the visibility within the bay can be pretty modest (as low as 4-5m), but at high tide and also outside the bay it can be remarkably good (up to 30m). Taken together, the diving conditions are certainly not easy for UW-photographers. This is more than compensated by outstanding biodiversity and abundance of species that guarantee the presence of great motifs in high number, rewarding those that take up the challenge.

School of common blue-striped snappers (Lutjanus kasmira), outside Chole Bay. Sony A7R5, WACP-C, Sony 28-60mm @28mm, 1/160s, f/10, ISO 100, 2* HF-1 (4500K diffusers):

Also inside Chole Bay, the quality of hard coral is good. Sony A7R5, Canon 8-15mm @15mm, 1/100s, f/10, ISO 100, 2* HF-1 (4500K diffusers):

Attracted by me, since I was using the macro setup (when I was equipped with the fisheye lens, mating Nembrothas were almost guaranteed), a giant Potato Grouper (Epinephelus tukula) shows up inside the bay. Sony A7R5, Sony 90mm macro, 1/200s, f/9, ISO 100, 2* HF-1 (4500K diffusers):

The diving comprises plenty of motifs for wideangle photography, but Chole Bay can be regarded as a true macro destination for UW-photographers as well:

Numerous nudibranch species can be encountered around Chole Bay. Noteworthy to state, our stay coincided with the mating season of the Golden Nembrotha (Nembrotha aurea). These seaslugs are hermaphrodites and mating takes place by connecting the sexual organs, located on the right side of the body, with each other in order to transfer the sperm. Sony A7R5, Sony 90mm macro, SMC-1, 1/250s, f/14, ISO 100, 2* HF-1 (4500K diffusers):

Blue Pseudoceros flatworm (Pseudoceros bifurcus) moves leisurely over hard coral. Sony A7R5, Sony 90mm macro, SMC-1, 1/200s, f/14, ISO 100, 2* HF-1 (4500K diffusers):

Shrimp city is a coral block located inside Chole Bay that is not only populated by countless camel shrimps (Rhynchocinetes durbanensis), but also glassfish, damselfish, anthias, muray eels and groupers. Sony A7R5, Sony 90mm macro, 1/250s, f/13, ISO 100, 2* HF-1 (4500K diffusers):

Longnose Hawkfish (Oxycirrhites typus) sitting on black coral. Sony A7R5, Sony 90mm macro, 1/200s, f/13, ISO 100, 2* HF-1 (4500K diffusers):

Reef octopus (Octopus cyaneus) peeks out curiously from its shelter. Sony A7R5, Sony 90mm macro, 1/200s, f/18, ISO 100, 2* HF-1 (4500K diffusers):

A report about diving at Mafia Island cannot be complete without whale sharks (Rhincodon typus). Outside the marinepark, between the African eastcoast, where the impressive Rufiji river ends up in the Indian Ocean, and the west coast of Mafia Island, the Mafia channel is formed. The high input of biomass from the Rufiji river delta causes plankton to bloom within this strait. This results not only in poor visibility (6-10m; and hence (again) challenging conditions for UW-photography), but, at certain times of the year, whale sharks gather for feeding. Snorkeling excursions by boat are offered and we were able to spot up to 15 different whale sharks on a single day (including a touching encounter with a female shark, closely accompanied by her half-grown up offspring).

Whaleshark feeding on krill. Sony A7R5, WACP-C, Sony 28-60mm @31mm, 1/200s, f/7.1, ISO 200:

Whaleshark fading away into the blue. Sony A7R5, Canon 8-15mm @15mm, 1/250s, f/6.3, ISO 250:

It was an unforgettable diving trip and fond memories will endure. We already have booked flights and resort for another two weeks in November 2025, in order to visit again this little paradise… 😊