stiebs Posted April 22 Share Posted April 22 I came across an FB marketplace ad that I just couldn't resist - a Canon Powershot S100 with FIXS100 aluminium housing plus Inon S2000 strobe for great price! Even though it's an almost 15yo camera, still a little backup camera, or something to take along for a dive that I don't think warrants taking my full rig, but I don't want to miss out on a photo op should it present itself! The previous owner had fashioned up a makeshift mount for the fiber optic connector as he didn't have the factory supplied one. But I figured I could go one better, so pulled out OpenSCAD and did my best! Haven't taken it underwater yet, but bench testing works a treat. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6590306 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davide DB Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 Looking forward your dive test to add it to our proven part list! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hellhole Posted April 25 Share Posted April 25 Brinf some blutak incase it does not fit well when there ia current Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
humu9679 Posted April 25 Share Posted April 25 That looks great! Well done! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stiebs Posted April 26 Author Share Posted April 26 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stiebs Posted April 26 Author Share Posted April 26 Interesting .. I just did a write-up with some images attached, and when I submitted the post, it got rid of all my text and only posted the images.. Took the housing for a dive yesterday, and the fiber optic connector was successful on all levels. Work fine, connectors stayed in snuggly for the whole dive, including giant stride off the pier. Still took reasonable force to remove them when disassembling. I will be making some tweaks for a second version though. The first was actually too tight - I had to remove the securing o-rings to insert the connectors far enough. So my next version will increase the hole diameter so the connectors without o-rings fit in with some wiggle room, and then create a small indent inside the hole for the o-ring to lightly positively lock the connector in place. Goal there will be to find the right sizing so its tight enough for a positive lock and to avoid accidental removal, while remaining loose enough to allow easy rotation and removal without excessive force. From a camera perspective, there was a bit of a learning (or compromise familiarisation) curve going from a modern mirrorless camera in an ergonomic Nauticam housing to a 15 year-old entry level compact in a more basic (but still quality) housing. I still much prefer my main rig, but this will suffice for its intended purpose as a backup camera just in case, and for those times where I want to take a camera on dive but don't think the conditions or anticipated subjects warrant bringing my main camera. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hellhole Posted April 26 Share Posted April 26 i am not sure what material u are using. but certainly PLA can be easily 'file' down. but its looks good... i am going to try to print some today!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stiebs Posted April 26 Author Share Posted April 26 I'm using PETG. Certainly PLA is easy to print, and I tend to use it only for prototyping and throw away prints. PETG is more durable than PLA in the UV and saltwater intense diving environment, and will also bend before snapping like PLA tends to. Do you also have the same housing? Or a similar housing that it will also fit? If the latter, please let me know what housing you have - it would be good to know if this suits multiple housings! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_Hicks Posted April 26 Share Posted April 26 (edited) My PETG & TPU printed underwater camera parts have fared well on hundreds of dives. Edited April 26 by Dave_Hicks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stiebs Posted April 26 Author Share Posted April 26 (edited) Tested the updated model (v2.2) on Thingiverse to add an indent within the connector hole, and it seems to work well. I've tried dry connections with the three different connectors that I have - Rubber connector with a raised ridge - Plastic connector with black o-ring - Plastic connector with red o-ring All fit slightly differently, but with all of them I can feel them "click" into place, and then they have a minuscule amount of in/out play before a slightly harder tug pulls them free. They also all have a reasonable amount of rotational freedom with rotational resistance differing slightly between the different connectors. Edited April 26 by stiebs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davide DB Posted April 26 Share Posted April 26 Link added. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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