I've had the Backscatter HF-1 strobes since the early summer and have really enjoyed using them. They are fantastic for Wide Angle work, but I also use them for Macro photography. My typical Macro lighting setup uses a Backscatter MF-2 snoot-strobe as the primary and the HF-1 for fill lighting, usually on very low power. One of my dive photo buddies uses the Retra strobes and add their Macro Reduction ring when shooting macro. I was inspired to make a Reduction Ring that would work with the HF-1s. I've seen one other design for an HF-1 reduction ring, but this one allows the use of flat diffusers at the same time. I always shoot the HF-1 with the 4500k flat installed as the strobes light is quite cold otherwise.

 

 

 

I've built and tested this setup now and used it on a Macro dive this week. I also did some wall shots for comparison purposes:

 

These wall shots were done at the typical macro-settings I use, set to 1/4 power on the HF-1.

 

 

The Reduction Ring is a two part system. A TPU rubber bumper ring that you can leave permanently on the strobe, where it will have the benefit on protecting the front leading edge from scratches and scrapes. My pair already has a number of dings in them after just a few months. The Reduction ring itself is hard ASA or PETG plastic and slips snuggly over the rubber ring. I used an aperture of 60mm for this design, which seems to work well.

 

You can download and print your own set of HF-1 reduction rings from:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/865305

 

A few photos from my test dive with the setup of the HF-1 Reduction rings and MF-2 snoot strobe:

 

 

 

 

 

Well done @Dave_Hicks !

I missed this!

project added to our DIYpedia 😉

 

I was messing around with this Reduction Ring some more and updated (improved I think) the design. I was having some issues getting it to print successfully in ASA due to some layer adhesion issues. I decided to flatten the cone which has the added benefit of making it simple to make a 2-color print with White on Black text. It's also easier to add/remove the ring from the strobe. I test dove it and it worked perfectly.

 

Makerworld link is the same and updated with the new design.

 

 

On 12/15/2024 at 12:38 AM, Dave_Hicks said:

I was messing around with this Reduction Ring some more and updated (improved I think) the design. I was having some issues getting it to print successfully in ASA due to some layer adhesion issues. I decided to flatten the cone which has the added benefit of making it simple to make a 2-color print with White on Black text. It's also easier to add/remove the ring from the strobe. I test dove it and it worked perfectly.

 

Makerworld link is the same and updated with the new design.

 

 

Hi Dave_Hicks, thank you for these reduction rings, i have a question.

 A friend of mine has this 3D printer Flashforge Adventure 4 and has problem with the .STL files.

This printer needs .gx or .Step file format, but my friend was not able to convert the .stl files in .gx or .step format.

Can you convert your .stl project in .gx or .step format?… 

Or do you know how to convert them ? 😳🤔🤔.

thanks 

49 minutes ago, scipionems said:

Hi Dave_Hicks, thank you for these reduction rings, i have a question.

 A friend of mine has this 3D printer Flashforge Adventure 4 and has problem with the .STL files.

This printer needs .gx or .Step file format, but my friend was not able to convert the .stl files in .gx or .step format.

Can you convert your .stl project in .gx or .step format?… 

Or do you know how to convert them ? 😳🤔🤔.

thanks 

STL files are a universal format, and they should open just fine in most any 3d printer slicer application. Perhaps try another popular slicer program like Orca or Cura. You can then convert them to any other format that you desire. You can do this yourself and don't need a 3D printer in order to run the applications. 

 

Your friends Flashforge printer came with software that can load STL files, and output the native g-code used by that model printer. This software is generally called a "Slicer". Most 3D models you can download are going to be STL files and need to prepared in the slicer to customize how it prints. There are endless numbers of YouTube videos that can explain how to use any 3d printer in this way.

 

Edited December 16, 2024Dec 16 by Dave_Hicks

https://store.anycubic.com/blogs/3d-printing-guides/how-to-https://store.anycubic.com/blogs/3d-printing-guides/how-to-convert-stl-files-to-g-code

 

47 minutes ago, scipionems said:

Hi Dave_Hicks, thank you for these reduction rings, i have a question.

 A friend of mine has this 3D printer Flashforge Adventure 4 and has problem with the .STL files.

This printer needs .gx or .Step file format, but my friend was not able to convert the .stl files in .gx or .step format.

Can you convert your .stl project in .gx or .step format?… 

Or do you know how to convert them ? 😳🤔🤔.

thanks 

Euh  I had the flashforge 4 and it's possible to used stl files with the flashforge slicer.. I only used STL file.

Thank you for the informations, I am absolutely ignorant about 3D printing, I will send all your suggestions to my friend.

Thank again 😃

1 hour ago, scipionems said:

Thank you for the informations, I am absolutely ignorant about 3D printing, I will send all your suggestions to my friend.

Thank again 😃

 

No problems! 3D printing has a bit of a learning curve, and it's not just fire and forget. It's getting closer to that, but it does require some reading, some trial and error / learn by doing, and some iteration to get the right output.

 

This particular design does require a bit of effort as it uses two separate materials: PETG and TPU. If you friend has not printed with these before they may need to make a few attempts to get it right.