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Your New Underwater Imaging Community
Dive into a world of extraordinary beauty and discover the captivating realm beneath the waves. Waterpixels is an innovative online community designed to connect professionals, industry experts, enthusiasts, and newcomers who share a passion for underwater imaging. Waterpixels is here to provide an engaging and inclusive space where you can explore, learn, and connect with like-minded individuals from around the globe.
Join us and become part of a thriving community of underwater imaging enthusiasts. Together, let's dive into the depths, capture awe-inspiring moments, and celebrate the beauty of the underwater world.
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By homodelphinius · Posted
Farewell to the torch - for unknown reason, even the head has been damaged. And repair is worth ... Now on the quest for a good replacement (no canister torch for now). -
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We'd really need to know a bit more about what settings you' re using to help. For example, are you shooting Manual on both the strobe and the camera, or something else? I have the EM 1 - Mk II and use the YS-D3 and have no issues at all powers in M on both. I've not used the D2s, but would guess there isn't too much difference. In manual on the camera with mechanical shutter and M on the strobe, it should sync up to 1/250 at all strobe powers, and if you use a trigger you can get even higher (1/400) without any black bars appearing.
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Not for the Visayas though where visibility depends mainly on the sea conditions/weather since it's shallower and sandier bottoms than Anilao/PG. March can be a hit or miss espcially for Panglao/Bohol, in all my stays in the Visayas I had much better conditions and viz late April/May.
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