eocean-eu

I have both the 5" and 7". I use the 5 with my GH5s and the 7 with the Z8 as there were blackout on the 5" with the Z8 each time after I stopped recording video (the photo mode has not this issue but it's a Nikon issue as it also affects other brand of expensive monitors...). I prefer the 5 as it is more compact despite the total lack of controls except on/off. The 7 is a classic cheap monitor with many options/buttons such as flip screen, etc... Brightness was okay in shallow waters in Lembeh but not exceptional but still very usable. The 2 x 18650 batteries in the Weefine 7" are enough to do 3 x 70min dives. The design of the 7" has slightly changed I think in 2023 with a better shade, new cables. Weefine cables were previously junk as they tended to break easily. They have a new design that seems better but still the cable is thin in comparison to Nauticam (which also used to break). Time will tell how durable they are

Thanks for the links. The last one concludes 'If you have a flashlight with a single LED single lithium battery then get a Linear driver. If you have a flashlight with one or two NiMH/Alkaline batteries, then you need a Boost driver. If your battery voltage is much higher than the LED voltage then get a Buck driver ' A recurrent design for lights with several LEDs (not the single COB design) of the same color is to assemble them in serial. It has several advantages in terms of light quality, effeciency, safety, design but with a major disadvantage that when one led breaks, all the matrix is dead. A diode might break when cooling is not sufficient as it may break or unsolder. If one looks at a high power LED datasheets, there's a fair amount of data and information regarding cooling. The thing is the added voltage of all LEDs in series in divelight in many cases exceeds the total voltage of the battery pack. This puts boost/step-up drivers as the preferred choices for big divelights.

I have also a MW4300 I use for snoot lighting and a luxmeter. I can do some light measurement at 2 to 5 min intervals 😉 and see how constant it is or not.

The thing is most people find video lights expensive and stops mostly at the number of lumens you get but quality components inside are expensive. Cheap lights have generally one or several issues: - bad quality battery = short runtime - badly cooled LED = short life for the product - bad driver = short runtime * little possibilty of power adjustment * unsteady power * short life and then there's bad design e.g. the light will leak after a few dives like for many lights that are sold on Aliexpress I've tried to repair a few divelights from friends and most of the time, the electronic was just cheap and bad or the LED was not even powered sufficiently. A good driver is expensive because it monitors the batteries, temperature, acts as a step-up voltage converter with constant current output and offer dimming. That's a lot of things to deal with. The circuit will naturally heat and if not properly cooled like the LED it will malfunction, Components may even unsolder themselves or fry.

I think the specification of constant output is hard to find simply because most if not all LED video lights have constant current outputs due to the electronic needed to power up the LEDs and provide power dimming. This is what people into electronics call "led driver". In our battery-powered devices, the driver will make the best use of the batteries so that the output current stays constant. So the LED in opposition to the old filament bulbs is not expected to naturally dim. It might and will dim at some point because the electronic says so to protect batteries or extent battery time, or it will simply start to have a visible strobe effect or just shut off. I've played with some of those electronic modules in the past. Some have the ability to dim the light by lowerings output amps but often the dimming is achieved through "PWM" (Pulse Width Modulation). The LEDs is then powered by a high frequency square current with for each cycle a fraction of time at full output (light on) and the remaining time it's off. The eyes are unable to catch those fast changes but PWM is sometimes responsible for image flickering when frequency is too low and does not match camera settings. Also, dimming might affect the quantity but also the spectrum of the light right from the LED. LEDs have an optimal range in terms of volts, amps and core temperature (which requires adequate external cooling).

2 more things to try: - Apply some WD40 and around the lens/flip threads and wait a bit. - soak the flip and lens into an ultrasonic cleaner.

Hello, Underwater cables are known to be fragile parts (I work in the marine industry) but those little video cable we use between housing and monitors seem even worse. I am using a Weefine WED5 on my GH5s. I mainly bought it for its compactness but immediately noticed the external video cable is thin, thinner than the Nauticam ones I have. This made me suspicious on the long run regarding reliability. So the cable finally died after 60 dives (and still under warranty). Another diver told me he was already in its third cable and the reseller told me Weefine has issued a second generation cable. Has any of you noticed those cable are particularly fragile ? And do you know if 2nd generation is actually better ? Thanks !

Hi Everyone, I am Lionel from France. I manly shot videos. I wish this new forum a long lasting success and will certainly enjoy the discussion about our hobbies. Kind regards !