Dave_Hicks

Both. I spend a week at Misool Eco Resort, then get on the liveaboard the next day. I booked Misool a couple years ago, but 7 days makes for a short trip. I decided to augment the trip with the Liveaboard a couple of months ago.

@TimG Thanks for sharing! I have a trip booked on the same boat next Feb/March 2026. We'll be diving Misool Eco Resort for just 7 days, and will follow up with what seems to be the same route you took, but in reverse. We return from Misool to Sorong and get on the Emperor Harmoni boat the next morning. We then fly back to Sorong and head home. I didn't find a lot of info or reports about this operation online, so it's great to hear you had such a good experience. I'm really looking forward to the trip and your photos.

There are several lights that include USB-C charge ports in the flashlight body. Check out the OrcaTorch DC710 as an example. It has a replaceable 21700 battery which can be charged in or out of the light with a standard USB-C cable and your phone or similar charger. OrcaTorch DC710 Scuba Dive Light with USB-Type C Direcot Charging

No. The cap seems to be working just fine and no visible change.

FYI - I've done about 20 successful dives with my HF-1 since the battery compartment had a flood. I cleaned it and replaced the orings for good measure and it's working great.

That's great! Can you upload to MakerWorld as well?

The other thing that the vacuum does is to "load" the orings. This was critical in older housings like Ikelite with their original port clip system. They were kept sealed largely by water pressure compressing the port to the housing. In a dunk tank the slightest bump could make them leak. Today most housings use a mechanical latch to apply that initial load, but water pressure still magnifies it for a better seal.

I can send you a 3d printed zoom gear for the Nikon 8-15 & Nauticam housing. Message me if you decide to buy. Fyi: I use the Zen 170mm port for this lens.

This is the way. 🖖

I've been using the Nauticam MFO-1 lens for a few weeks and decided to fit it out with a Lens Hood and Cap to protect it from damage while in use and in storage. My previous close-up diopters took a beating over time, and I wanted to do better with the MFO. I've used it on a handful of dives and it works great. The hood is rubber so if you pump a rock, it won't break and just acts as a bumper protecting the glass and body. It can also help reduce lens flare from your strobes. The Hood is printed with TPU rubber and slips tightly over the MFO-1. The Nauticam provided cap won't work when the hood is installed, so I made a cap as well. Both soft TPU and hard PETG versions of the cap are available. Note: These will work with the Nauticam SMC and CMC lenses as well. https://makerworld.com/en/models/1320540-shade-cap-for-nauticam-mfo-smc-close-up-lens#profileId-1356631

What is your take on the 105mm AF-S vs Z mount lens options? I have stuck with my AF-S mount lens on the Z8 and continue to be very happy with the focus speed and image quality. Is there is a compelling reason to get the Z mount? I have a 60mm+20mm port already, so I'd just need the lens.

The MFO comes with a mounting ring that allows you to screw it directly to the port. I used that method a couple of days ago and found that it leaves a pretty big bubble of air between the glass. I had to unscrew and remove it underwater to clear the bubble. I was still near the surface and it is possible the bubble might clear at greater depth. I've used it a few other times and didn't notice a problem but also didn't check as they were night dives. A flip adapter is probably a better way to use the MFO-1.

Details please. Model of port and a photo. Flat, dome, glass, acrylic?

Business Class!

Maybe Palau as well? It's a short hop from Guam, and it's practically a US territory. Palau citizens can join the US military, interestingly.

I would consider Fiji or Guam. You are not interested in Hawaii I take it? Seattle is excellent in October as well but maybe you don't like cold water? I would not consider Indonesia at all, probably not the Philippines.

Wrap sandpaper around the end of a chopstick or pencil with a rubber band. Works great.

I typically leave batteries in my strobes when stored at home, and in active rotation. I've done that with Ikelite, Inon, and Backscatter strobes over the years. But some electronic devices can experience "phantom drain" which can drain a battery over time. If you are not going to be using your strobes for a month or more, I'd feel better removing all batteries. Across many months of storage, battery leakage is a possibility. With alkaline cells it's a near certainty, with NiMH and Lithium less so but not zero risk. Any strobe that is going to be packed for Flying should definitely have batteries removed. The risk of it turning on while packed is non-zero and could have very bad results. Drained batteries, overheating, even fires. Don't risk it.