Robin.snapshots

The bayonet converter is mounted flush like this so I don’t see anything wrong with that either.

I have the gopro set to RAW shooting so there is only the wide option available. For video the vignetting is less apparent but still present in the wide setting. The circle "moves around" so to speak due to the image stabilisation.

I Attached the lens underwater so I am sure there is water inside the mount. I also don't see how the mount itself could be installed incorrectly. I do get a full projection if I remove the bayonet holder and manually hold the lens in front of the case. So I am wondering now if the AOI bayonet holder gets the lens closer to the case.

I remember you using it without the underwater case from the other thread, is that correct? In that case the wet lens might be a lot closer. Here is a quick underwater picture of my sink. There is some vignette but it seems I am looking at the inside of the lens here.

I just received my backscatter Sharp wide lens (aoi uwl-03) and noticed that the image corners are completely black when using it. It's not some slight vignetting but the camera seeing the inside of the lens. It seems the backscatter bayonet mount does not get the lens close enough to the port glass to cover the entire sensor. The backscatter bayonet system has some extra space built in it for allowing filters inbetween the port an lens. The AOI bayonet system doesn't have the filter option. Does anyone here know if that one places the lens in a better position ?

Thanks for the insight. The older version I can get my hands on used locally for a third of the price of the newer one. I currently shoot a7Riii, so the older one should be fine for now but I don’t want to get into trouble when upgrading later. I would like to use the tamron 17-28 with the 180mm dome. This needs 40mm extension of which I already own the N100 version. So getting the older adapter would save me the price difference + extra adapter. no manual focus I guess wouldn’t be an issue for me on this lens.

Would you think that using N100 extensions instead of N120 gets around this interference? So: housing - N100 extension - adapter - dome instead of housing - Adapter - N120 extension - Dome

The Tokina works well on my a6400 using the MC-11 adapter.

The canon 8-15 is an excellent option too but a more expensive package overall. Since the tokina works so well on aps-c I would personally only consider it if you are planning on upgrading to full-frame in the (near) future.

Can anyone tell me what has changed in the newer versions of the nauticam port adapters? I was looking at the N100 to N120 adapter and am wondering what the difference is between the 37305 or the older 37303. Is the older one incompatible with newer housings?

I do not recall exactly but I believe it was either due to the slots not mating or the threads not going deep enough to grab on the seafrogs port. Based on the manual you posted the slots should not be a problem (anymore) as they should be removable. I unfortunately can not test it myself as I sold my uwl09-pro at the time because I couldn’t get the bayonet working with my sea frogs port. I do have the nauticam version here, that doesn’t fit on the seafrogs because, as Chris pointed out: the rim around the threads is too thick. The nauticam bayonet system has to go around the threads so to speak.

Before you embark on this DIY journey: The Tokina 10-17 works well in the standard salted line 6" dome without any modifications. That's a relatively cheap solution. Seafrogs might sell you the base part of the dome for your newer 90mm housing if you contact them. Don't know if there is one that has similar length but it might be much easier.

Did you manage to get the settings dialed in to have the parts waterproof on their own? I was under the impression that covering the parts with epoxy was the way to go for proper waterproofing. Do you smooth out the mating surfaces for the O rings in some post-processing, or do you fully rely on the soft O-ring to fill the gaps?

It’s a bit smaller (so a shorter and lighter port to pack) and a bit sharper on high resolution cameras but not by a lot.

I have tried the WWL-1 (not b) on a sea frogs salted line port using the 67mm thread. It’s cumbersome but it works. The port I was using, was not rated for the weight of the lens so it had to be attached underwater. This is probably similar on the 28-60 port so be prepared to enter/exit the water with a separate lens or have it screwed on a float arm. The sunhood can be adjusted to the correct position in relation to the screw threads so that works fine. A really good alternative to the wwl-1 would be the AOI UWL 09 pro. Optically very similar but has the same usage quirks. The aoi bayonet system won’t work on the seafrogs port either, so also here you would be stuck with using the m67. Third party bayonet systems/flip adapters will probably not work either as they usually increase the distance from the wet lens to the port.

I am experimenting a bit with vintage lenses and would like some more options. Looking for port extensions for my N100 system. Preferably in Europe.

Will you be having a stable internet connection from time to time during the trip? Another option that has worked well for me is to use Lightroom mobile and have it sync the images on your phone. It will upload them and generate smart previews on your phone to save space. The smart previews work very well to edit and review on the go. Once you get home, Lightroom on the pc will download the full raw files with all the edits you made during the trip. This requires a subscription if you don't have it yet but it is possible to get that for 1 or 2 months only. Should you go this route, I would advise to bring extra SD cards to keep a copy so you never have to format/delete something from them during the trip.

Workaround with what you have: copy files to phones internal storage first -> connect ssd and transfer -> delete from phone. Not ideal and slow but if you make back-ups daily it is workable and doesn't require as much space. Note that not all ssd's work with the phone as some are a bit too power hungry, connecting power as well sometimes helps. I tend to carry my iPad Pro with me instead of a laptop on dive trips to save weight. On that I can connect an ssd and sd card at the same time and use them at reasonable speeds. Should you consider upgrading the phone, there is a major difference between the iPhone 15 and the Iphone 15 pro. The latter can do the same in terms of connecting ssds.

Would you be willing to share the model for the 90mm? I tried a similar approach for this lens but couldn’t get it to fit in the narrower N100 port. my hacky solution was cutting off the screw part and adding a bunch of rubber bands

It will not fit. I tried printing a N120 focus ring for my houding once and they are larger in diameter than the N100 rings. They should however work in the N100 to N120 adapter with the knob.

Looking at the nauticam website I find this manual with instructions to do so: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eqjAuRyQbazThYDkdThLO0zsoLvzdktJ/view Now I look at it, the assembly on the product picture does not look the same as the illustration in the manual so I suspect there are multiple versions of the port.

The focus knob is removable. I believe there is a plug included with the port to do so.

I have no expectation of it working without case or behind flat glass. My question is if somebody tried a housing that works and what the results were. So far I have seen some Chinese housings that look like this, they are curved a bit. Adding wet optics will most likely be a lot better but I don't want to make the setup bigger in my use case so they are pretty much ruled out. null

Does anyone here have some experience shooting the GoPro with the max lensmod on? If so, what housing were you using with it? I am looking to have a wider option for the gopro but would like to keep the setup small and contained so wet optics or big domes are not preferred in my situation.

During my diving trip last Christmas I got the chance to experiment a bit with getting the TTArtisans 100mm soap bubble lens to work on my sony underwater setup. I am not yet on a setup I am fully happy with but I will share my findings so far: The lens installed on a m42-E mount adapter fits well and has full focus range in the nauticam 105 N100 port meant for the sony 90mm macro. There is a few millimetres space left when fully extended which could fit an ND filter. In the basic setup the focus range is too far out to be practical so I tried adding some macro tubes in-between the m42 adapter and the camera. About 20mm extension gives me a nice working distance on land but unfortunately I do not own the port extension to fit this combination so I have not tested this underwater. It does fit inside the 105 port with 10mm extension but can not fully extend. I tried this setup with a fixed focus by installing the lens in the housing as far out as it will go within the space and focussing underwater by moving the camera in and out. This worked (focus peaking is a lifesaver) but the working distance is still a bit too far for my liking. Next I 3d printed and hacked together a focus ring to be able to focus underwater and used that setup without any extension inside the port to have full focus range available and not smash the lens against the glass underwater. In order to get the magnification I wanted, I tried adding my SMC-1 which worked well for super macro but was a bit too strong for normal macro. I believe this setup with a weaker diopter could work quite well. What I learned the hard way was that a focus ring for an m42 lens also doubles as a lens remover quite well. To tackle this I intend to purchase a m42 to E mount helicoid adapter which then also doubles as the macro extension. This also moves the part the focus ring has to grab onto further back, which makes the focus ring more stable as it can be shorter. I am also hoping another adapter will fix some of the internal reflections my current m42 adapter is giving me. The lens itself is very similar to the trioplan 100, with much of the same nice bokeh but also the same problems. Consider it a much cheaper trioplan 100 without dust in it.