Tino Dietsche

Hello everyone, Since the Nitecore NL2160HP cells for my new AOI UIS-P1 Ultra flashlight don't fit into standard 21700 cases, I quickly made my own transport case. However, the case also fits 21700 cells, such as XTAR. I hope this case helps someone here too. Greetings from Switzerland, Tino https://makerworld.com/de/models/1753850-battery-case-2x-nitecore-nl2160hp#profileId-1864902

Hello everyone, Thank you very much for your feedback. I've decided to purchase two AOI UIS-P1s after all. If you're interested, I'd be happy to share my personal experiences after the first few dives. Tino

Hello everyone, I'm about to buy two new flashes for my underwater setup (Sony A7CII in a Nauticam housing, Sony 28-60 with WWL-1, Sony 90mm F2.8 Macro) and I'm not quite sure which product to choose. I'm considering AOI flashes combined with the new Backscatter TTL flash trigger. Two AOI UIS-P1s would be an option, but I'm wondering if two AOI UCS-Q1i flashes might be a possible alternative. Both are in stock at my dealer and can be obtained quickly. Easy operation, even with dry gloves and a focus light, is important to me. I primarily dive in freshwater, often in rather poor visibility conditions. I go to the ocean no more than once a year. I make an average of between 40 and 60 dives a year, all with a camera. Roughly half of them are wide-angle and half macro. I've had two old INONs (a Z240 and a D-2000) for many years, plus I have an HF-2 from Backscatter for macro use only. I thought I'd ask the question here again; the feedback is always interesting and sometimes brings up new ideas and thoughts that I hadn't even considered before. With that in mind, thank you very much for your thoughts, Tino

Hello everyone, I've finished two new projects and uploaded them to Makerworld. Protective Cover for KELDAN 8XR and 4XR https://makerworld.com/de/models/1517614-protective-cover-for-keldan-8xr-and-4xr#profileId-1590074 Battery Case - two KELDAN Battery 8 https://makerworld.com/de/models/1517708-battery-case-two-keldan-battery-8#profileId-1590211

Hello everyone, I've created a transport case for a colleague's KELDAN Battery 4. It took a few iterations, but now the case fits, and the battery can be transported and charged in it. Perhaps someone here could use this as well. If you're interested, I can also make a version with two or four batteries. https://makerworld.com/de/models/1422555-battery-case-keldan-battery-4#profileId-1478176 Greetings from Switzerland, Tino

Hello everyone, Since my used Nauticam WWL-1 lens didn't come with a back cap, I made a suitable one. It also works for the bayonet mount. I hope someone can use this. https://makerworld.com/en/models/1346497-rear-cover-for-nauticam-wwl-1-bajonet-mount#profileId-1388138 Greetings from Switzerland, Tino

Hello everyone, I've put three more 3D printed parts online. Maybe some of you can use some of them. Strobe arm holder for IKEA Skadis pegboard for some float-arms up to 8cm diameter Transport case for two longer 18650 cells with length around 69mm maximal 19mm diameter Tested with three different cells used in BigBlue dive lights (3000mAh 3.7V green - 2600mAh 3.7V blue and grey). For the Nitecore NL1335HP used in the Backscatter MF-1, there is a separate version of the housing because the cells have a smaller radius. Battery Case - 2x NITECORE NL1835HP Some other Cases on the web for 18650 are to short for cells like that one that are use as example for BigBlue Lights. I hope these parts help someone. Greetings from Switzerland, Tino

How much space do you have in the case for the connector? I can look for my documents if you like. My solution also worked in an RX100 case where there was hardly any space.

Today I would definitely do it with an adapter like this. When I built my version, USB-C wasn't really widespread and all the Sony cameras I had used Micro-USB.

Hello everyone, The Micro-USB interface is still an issue here. A few years ago I created a cable solution like this for myself and a few other people because the battery in the second generation of the Sony A7 series was pretty weak. I had a version for the Sony A7 series and also for the RX100. In each case as a pure charging option or also to load the data from the camera. I used S6 flash sockets as a base and I soldered the corresponding USB plugs etc. myself. With a little skill, you can create such a solution yourself. The connectors needed for soldering are available online for little money. Greetings from Switzerland, Tino

If you are interested, I would also adapt the mount for other dive computers, but I would need photos with dimensions. Important, also with the charging cable etc. attached. Greetings from Switzerland, Tino

Hello everyone, My action cam mount for the Suunto EON Core is now online available. https://makerworld.com/en/models/1145796#profileId-1149026

Hello everyone, Over the last few weeks I have created new parts for underwater photography for the 3D printer, perhaps one or two of you can use some of them. This time they are parts that are intended to bring some order to my equipment. Plus an action cam mount for the long clamps from CarbonArm. https://makerworld.com/en/models/1097520#profileId-1092187 https://makerworld.com/en/models/1140747#profileId-1143074 https://makerworld.com/en/models/1079054#profileId-1070448 Greetings from Switzerland, Tino

Hello everyone, I have created another version for a mount for the EON Core to connect the computer to the setup with a 1" ball. It might be interesting for one or two people here. The whole thing could certainly be adapted to other dive computers. (I'll take a look at it when I get photos and dimensions, if I have time.) You can find the 3D data for the 1" ball mount for the EON Core here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1069725#profileId-1059367 I will also put the cover for the EON and the version with GoPro-like support online in the next few days. Greetings from Switzerland, Tino

I've had my own 3D printer since the end of November last year and I'm constantly creating a few new things for my underwater photo setup. My mount for the EON Core on my underwater housing has been updated again! Instead of attaching it to a plate with bungees, I've now created a support directly for the computer. In addition to the version with a GoPro mount, I've also created a version with a 1" ball. I've also created a new cover for the EON Core made of TPU. If you are interested, I will make the relevant files available online soon. Greetings from Switzerland, Tino

Hello everyone, At the end of November, after much deliberation, I bought a 3D printer and the first CAD drawings and projects for underwater photography are slowly emerging. Among other things, a holder for my flash arms for the IKEA Skadis pegboard. Who knows, maybe someone else uses the Skadis parts and can also use my design. More parts will definitely follow. The holder works with all common flash arms with a 1" ball. I also drew a version for arms with buoyancy, which I will definitely upload. Underwater Strobe Arm Holder - IKEA Skadis Greetings from Switzerland, Tino

The prototype of my latest computer mount. I'll make a couple of adjustments for the next version, but basically the part fits.

Thanks for the feedback. I would also use the Sony 28-60. I'm currently using the Sony 16-35 F4 behind a 180mm dome. The combination is already weak at the edges and based on various tests and images I would have better quality and edge sharpness with the 28-60 with WWL-1 or WWL-C. Plus 130° instead of just 107°. I already have the 28-60 here, but I haven't bought the port yet. In that case you could choose a WWL-C instead of the WWL-1 without any problems if you got one at a good price? What do others think about this?

Hello everyone, Since this is about the WWL-C and it is used here together with various full-format cameras and lenses, I wanted to ask how the lens basically performs? Does anyone have any experience comparing the WWL-1? The WWL-C is basically developed for smaller sensors? Thank you for your feedback, Tino

Hello everyone, For two ideas I'm looking for "empty" M14 bulkheads with a protective cap. Does anyone have an idea where I can get something like this? Thanks for your help, Tino

Hi, I have been using a monitor housing since the end of 2020 (self-built project). I have two versions for assembly that work very well. For macro photography, I have the monitor at the back of the housing directly in front of the camera display. So I'm in the optical axis and have no problems finding the subjects. To work close to the ground, I simply swivel the monitor upwards and can therefore work comfortably from above. For wide angles, I place the monitor above the housing, as here the setup is, if possible, completely neutrally balanced. In addition to being able to take photos comfortably, I can also film very well and move the camera nicely in front of me. I mounted the monitor with two clamps, which in my opinion makes it a little more flexible than just one clamp. I also tared the housing of the monitor itself so that it was as neutral and upright as possible in the water. Hope this helps you find an optimal solution for you. Attached are a few more pictures. Greetings from Switzerland, Tino Macro Macro Wide-Angle (Copyright by Robert Hansen)

Power Only Version for RX100II to be able to charge the camera between two dives. The USB-C socket mentioned in the posts above is basically the same. In principle, the idea is not new. Inside a Sony A7II Housing from Nauticam, with a cable for power and data. The S6 Connector to the "Underwater-Powerpack" from an old flash cable. The USB-Powerpack inside the old housing of an diving light.

Hi Ben, I don't know about your camera, the Sony cameras can be charged via USB while in use. For this reason, my solution didn't require battery dummies or anything like that. A USB connection to the USB power bank to the camera was sufficient. With the offset Connector from Nauticam, it should actually be possible. USB-Powerbank to USB-Connection in the housing or USB-Powerbank to your dummy-battery. With a little courage you can build the whole thing yourself relatively easily. Soldering iron, the necessary cables and some time. Different things would be possible for the housing for the power bank, old diving lamp, old underwater housing... The simplest solution is without plug connections and a permanently cast or sealed cable connection. If I prefer to have a plug so that the whole thing can be used without the extra power supply, I would use old electrical lightning cables and sockets. I'm looking for two more pictures to illustrate the whole thing or give an idea. Tino

The only way in this case is the Nauticam Offset Connector with Vacuum Vavle.