humu9679

@Chris Ross Looks terrific! Were you able to get refunded, at least partially, for the missed first trip?

@Assist91 Welcome aboard! Wonderful photos with your Sony RX100Va.

Welcome aboard @Mike !

It's pretty limited. Nauticam says your working distance 43-95mm. That's why a native lens that magnifies a lot is cool, like the OM Systems 90mm, which reportedly does 2:1, when most standard macro lenses do 1:1. Canon RF 100mm does 1.3:1.

@brightnight Adobe's subscription thing is a benefit if you're using cloud storage. I subscribe to that (USD 120/year), with Lightroom. Editing is basic, but has enough of what I need for photos. With regards to Photoshop -- which I don't have right now -- I'm not a fan of creating crazy whiz bang photos from poorly executed initial images anyhow. You can also buy Photoshop Elements, if you don't want to do a subscription, and you can process RAW, but you will have to pay for updates, if that's still a thing.

@Dave_Hicks That's very cool Dave! Keep us posted.

That's awesome! And the blue matches your eyes, eh?

I tried HSS with my Sony A7c, and it doesn't work with a UW Technics or Nauticam manual trigger. I wonder if we will be able to get this to work when Backscatter releases their TTL trigger. The UW Technics limits the sync speed to 1/160th second (factory max) and the Nauticam will allow you to fire at up to 1/200th second, but will cause banding faster than that. Though the A7c is not advertised as being able to use HSS, it does work with my Sony HVL-F32M flash.

Sorry to jump in on a topic so late .... @Mark Don What gear did you pick up? Or did you get enough of a headache from all of us to throw up your hands?

@canislupus Welcome aboard! I, too, participated less on the old website. I'm not sure how it happened that I'm far more active here. Cheers.

That lanyard is first rate! I figure you can make your own hand strap with those skills. In fact, I'm sure people will buy your lanyards if you were to offer them up. I'm sure you've seen how much manufacturers are charging for those things.

@scuba_jc Got some good stuff there!

@ScubaBC Welcome to Waterpixels!

@Eyal C Gorgeous frame!

@Eyal C That's nice. I love batfish.

Saw this GoPro mount for dual lens masks, which is a link on the dive diversions website. https://scubapro.johnsonoutdoors.com/us/shop/accessories/mask-accessories/go-pro-dive-mask-mount

Sweet! That's really good news.

Welcome (back)!

For BW I agree. The Sony 50 macro on my A7c was slow to lock on, but good for tracking.

I did have a pair of Nauticam float arms that failed several years ago, but I think that was one of the early generations. I believe Nauticam has some kind of warranty now.

@bvanant I'm impressed by Nanette's BW video. Great stuff. I cannot fathom how you handle focusing with the LX10 @bghazzal I was on the #SmilingSeahorse 18-25 Feb 2024 and we did one BW dive. My Sony A7c and 50 macro struggled to keep up with the critters -- shooting stills -- and my first BW dive was a big fail. Re lighting, it seems the lightbox technique over lights the whole scene, and I wonder if just bilateral side lighting would do the trick? Probably best not to light up everything in the water. @christophe chellapermal It was a very nice trip on the Smiling Seahorse (SS). Franck did not come on this trip, and I believe the SS was the first dive operator to offer BW dives in the Andaman Sea.

Sounds like you set everything up right. The MF-1 manual says it will work out settings after making a test exposure, as Chris also noted. And it probably doesn't matter if you're 1st or rear curtain, and I'm sure you're setting the camera the rest of the camera correctly. If you have another body, you can try that. Or try another flash trigger. Maybe a call to Backscatter will be helpful? Is this a new or used unit? I recently tried shooting the new Backscatter Hybrid Flash - 1 in a burst (middle speed, continuous), and I was getting every other frame exposed, but the first frame was exposed. This, on an A7c.

Nauticam's are top notch, but you can split the difference and get Ultra Light (ULCS). Haven't tried Puluz. Also, you can change the o rings on both Nauticam and ULCS balls when they wear out. ULCS dimensions are: off the shelf: Buna size 2-209, or Danco #95 15/16 x 11/16 x 1/8. For the style afficionados here, Nauticams are a nice blue color.

@sharkypeeps Just seeing this now, and I'm running an Olympus TG-5 with Kraken hydra 5000k lights. My Dive-X blacktip travel tends to nose down as configured. I removed one of the two plates in the nose cone. You might consider adding weight if you're nosing up.

My experience with DSLRs made using a viewfinder necessary because live view was so poor. I'd argue now that unless your framing needs to be very precise, you might not need a viewfinder. The YS-D3s are pretty light underwater, like 20 g, so it seems buoyancy for the housing/camera/port/lens is what's necessary. Consider looking at StiX floats if you're using aluminium arms like Ultra Light or Nauticam. They're easily adjustable. They look cheap and unimpressive in photos but they're actually quite good. The "jumbos" displace 181 g each, "large" (which are not very large) displace 82 g, and the macro port float belt displaces 567 g (I have a hard time keeping this on the port, but zip ties are my best friend here).