What Olympus DSLR set-up would you recommend for me?

Hi, thank you all for looking at this thread.

I spent 6 hours reading on here last night about the differnces between the DSLR camera's people are using, and now I find myself totalley confused on what to buy.

I been using a Olympus C-8080 with a Oly PT-023 housing, Ikelite strobe, with a EV-Manual Controller.

I sold it, to buy my first DSLR UW set up, and since then I have won a Auction on Ebay for a NEW

Olympus Evolt E-330 , and coming from a Dig camera, I loved the fact it has Live View.

I couldn't imagine trying to point and shoot through the little view finder they give you on most DSLR's.

After reading about the E-330 last night, I wanted to make sure before I spend over $3,000.00 between the camera, housing, lens port's, etc, is this the right set up?

I don't know nothing about apture/ shutter prioty, and guess I have alot of learing to do.

Since last night , I been looking at the Nikon D-80, seems to get alot of good comments, etc, but that is one camera and many to choose from.

Where I live is Florida, and dive alot where there is plenty of amibent light, like the upper Key's where reef's are generley about 25-30' deep. When Im not diving there, Im diving in apporx 60' of water.

My question is, Since the E-330 came out, are the people shooting them have much success, because I know they were saying A-mode is usless underwater, and B-mode possibley you may get buy.

Ok, now for my thoughts on a camera set up. I'm going to try to keep the camera around $1,000 or under. The housing I thought I would go with a Ikelite, so I can TTL the strobes, as it would be to hard for a begginer to manualey control the strobes. I would like to use a 8" dome port, have no idea what it's used for, but look's cool as hell, and from what I'm reading, you can use that port with many types of lens.

Also would consider buying a macro port and lens, as I love shooting close-ups as well.

The strobe's I thought I would by two Ikeklite DS-125's, and when I upgrade my UW camera set-up , I can take the strobes set up's with me.

Also, when you comparing the Ikelite housing's, compared to the Sea& Sea, what is the comparisons for the port's. I was thinking of going with a Sea&Sea housing, but there 8" dome ports were like $800 , compared to Ikelites at $400.

Any help would be appreciated, I know it's alot fo question's, but I don't want to make the mistake and buy somthing and spend thousands of dollars, and not be happy with the outcome.

Camera's I was thinking of going with were :

Olympus Evolt E330, but now I just found out about the Olympus E-410, and E-510, seems you can get a housing for $650.00 for the E-410. Any suggestions on the Live veiws?

Canon , anything from a Rebel XTI, upto a more expensive one.

Nikon D-80, D-70, or D40 ?

Please help, as I am lost in the confusion of the DSLR world, thank you

Sounds like you poked through these threads

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showt...8918&hl=30D

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showt...2217&hl=D30

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showt...9742&hl=D80

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showt...9686&hl=D80

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19367&hl=

And I am not sure there is a way to answer exactly because it is rather diverse. That being said, a couple of my thoughts FWIW.

I sold it, to buy my first DSLR UW set up, and since then I have won a Auction on Ebay for a NEW Olympus Evolt E-330 , and coming from a Dig camera, I loved the fact it has Live View. I couldn't imagine trying to point and shoot through the little view finder they give you on most DSLR's.

 

After reading about the E-330 last night, I wanted to make sure before I spend over $3,000.00 between the camera, housing, lens port's, etc, is this the right set up?

Have not used the E-330, but it has been replaced/updated by the E-410 and the E-510. You may want to look there since they are newer (real new.) AlsoI like Olympus, but it came to getting a dSLR, Olympus fell away (even though I would have wanted one) due to shutter lag and some other factors when compared to the Nikons or Canons. You may want to look for benchmarks on the new Olympus cameras (if any have been done) to see if they are worthwhile. U/W the lag is something you really want to reduce.

I don't know nothing about apture/ shutter prioty, and guess I have alot of learing to do.

If a camera is in aperture priority mode the shutter speed is adjusted for the exposure and vice versa (the 8080 has this)

Since last night , I been looking at the Nikon D-80, seems to get alot of good comments, etc, but that is one camera and many to choose from.

Camera's I was thinking of going with were :

Olympus Evolt E330

In general I would lean to a newer model of any of the brands since housings are often limited to one body (except the Nikon D40 & D40X) and that is a big cost. If something happens to the camera it may be more difficult to get a new body. Of course by the same token at the EOL you mmay be able to pick up a main body and back-up body for a good price (not to mention housings that people may be selling.)

Canon , anything from a Rebel XTI, upto a more expensive one.

In the price range it would be the Xti and the D30 (of the current models) the XT (8 Megapixels) can be had for about $550 so you can get a couple.

Above that you will be going alot higher over the budget

Nikon D-80, D-70, or D40 ?

The D-70 is out of production so my general thoughts above apply about discontinued models. Again, not saying the cameras are bad, or even that the newer models are that much better, but it is a factor to consider.

I looked at the D40 due to its size and price, plus the fact the D40X just came out and will be around for awhile and they both will work in the same housing. Figured if worse came to worse they are easy to get back-ups for at a low price. I actually had the D40 for a bit, but returned. it Not sure if I had a bad one, but was dissappointed in its performance and it was freezing up/not shooting. I know it will not fire under certain conditions (not being in focus) but when I was taking pictures of people posing together in a group shot outside, it would often not fire and when trying to take a follow up shot (not rapid firing) if I did get a shot to go the first time, it would also freeze. Was bummed.

I just picked up a Canon 30D for a real good price (discontinued at a store so they the demo on sale ) and putting it through the paces above water. Love its performance so far though I still need to get some things down, pictures look slightly soft for some reason.

Go figure, Canon was not on the top of my list. Having played a bit with an Xti and now the 30D, I am considering the Xti for UW use due to its size and some small housings. (I also like the concept of self-cleaning sensor which the Xti has and which is why Olympus was one I considered.) I know some people are hardcore Nikonians or Canonians, but I really do not come from either camp.

Think about the size issue if it is a concern. The Xti and the D40/D40X are smaller and there are/will be smalller housings for them. (I am assuming I had a bad D40 based on all the good things I have read about it.) The Xti and D40s will range between $550-$750.

The D80 and 30D are going to be in the $1200 range or so and are larger

And then you got the bigger guns/performance - D200 etc.

Bottom line is any of these will be a big jump up for you from the 8080 based on lag and cycle times for RAW alone. As David Haas pointed out in another thread http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?s=&am...st&p=128622. I come from the same general thoughts, try not to get too caught up with all the possibilities out there (the "biggest, best, most expensive") Of course each feature can add to what you can accomplish, and there may be a time when you outgrow your camera, but knowing your camera and rig will go pretty far.

Thanks for your input, it is greatley appreciated.

I didn't even know Olympus came out with the E-410 and E-510, I thought the E-330 was the only " Live view LCD on the market "

One thing though is, If I go with any of the Olympus housing's for the camera, I was hoping to go TTL through a sync cord, and I think the only way the Oly Housing's will fire most strobes is through Fiber-optic and EV controller. I don't want to go with either of those, but I know you can chnage the bulk heads for around another $400 , but then i might as well go with an Ikelite.

How long has the E-410 and E-510 been out?

I'm going to go look around and see is anyone is shooting pics with those two now

Long term I'd consider a Nikon or Canon since more quality lenses & housings are available. Look only at housings that have ports that can be used on any of the manufacturer's housings. Then when you upgrade you can still use your existing ports. Any camera you buy will probably be discontinued in 6-12 months, so find one that will serve your purposes for a couple years. Also think about spares (especially anything electronic), how many lenses you will eventually need, computer resources, camera memory cards, backup hard drives for computer, how you will handle photos on a trip (will you take a laptop?). Most important - do you have a Platinum Card??

Long term I'd consider a Nikon or Canon since more quality lenses & housings are available. Look only at housings that have ports that can be used on any of the manufacturer's housings. Then when you upgrade you can still use your existing ports. Any camera you buy will probably be discontinued in 6-12 months, so find one that will serve your purposes for a couple years. Also think about spares (especially anything electronic), how many lenses you will eventually need, computer resources, camera memory cards, backup hard drives for computer, how you will handle photos on a trip (will you take a laptop?). Most important - do you have a Platinum Card??

Nice website Jcclink, I never thought about the ports being interchangable, and thats what scares me, These camera's are coming out faster then I can keep up.

Seem's now everyone is going with 10MP DSLR's, now I just have to find the right combo.

Isn't it better for somoen like me to start off with somthing like a older camera, like the E-330, being I can get the camera for $500 bucks ? But the housing's are still expensive, they want $1,200 still for that camera, which dosn't make sense.

I'm afraid this may run me over $4,000 by the time I buy strobes etc, and coming from a Olympus C-5060, and C-8080, I don't know anything about these DLSR's. I been around this block two times in the past year, selling two Olympus C-5060 and C-8080, and then i bought a Olympus E-500, sold that to go back to the C-8080, and I'm just going to take the plundge and spend the money, and i want to make sure I'm investing it with the right set up

How long has the E-410 and E-510 been out?

The E-410 started shipping May and the E-510 June. Olympus is making the housing for the E-410 but not the E-510 (others are going to do so) One of the main differences is the E-510 has image stabilzation (also a bit bigger). Have not seen any other housings for the E-410 or E-510 from other places yet, but have not looked alot recently since the cameras dropped off my list

If you could get REALLY good deals on the E-330 then maybe go for it, but for $500 I am not sure I would jump on it. The 8 Meg Rebel specs out better in terms of lag and can be had brand new for $550 or so. The Nikon D40 and X are also available for about $750. I have seen the E-330s and E-500s for $500-$650 or so with a couple of lenses but passed on them myself. ( I have taken a variety off Olympus P & S underwater and had enjoyed using them in general, and the pictures came out nicely, but I reached the point that the shortcomings of a P & S began to feel like they were limiting what I was able to do).

As to the TTL, Ikelite has the feature in their housings and in your working budget to get TTL, it will probably have to be the Ikelite route. There was a thread, which I cannot find now, regarding TTL and is it now worth having. Long debates on the subject of course

Also there are some other means, take a look here for instance

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showt...h+ttl+convertor

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showt...h+ttl+convertor

Get an E-330 with the Ike housing, dual DS-125s, and a Zuiko 14-54mm lens!

I have this rig and love it. It is the only live-view, useable underwater. [The 410/510 have live-mode B - lots of shutter lag due to mechanical motion before auto-focus.]

Get an E-330 with the Ike housing, dual DS-125s, and a Zuiko 14-54mm lens!

 

I have this rig and love it. It is the only live-view, useable underwater. [The 410/510 have live-mode B - lots of shutter lag due to mechanical motion before auto-focus.]

Jlyle, can you send me some pics you shot with the E-330?

I won the E-330 for $520 bucks with dual lens on Ebay brand new, just havn't paid yet for it, because I started reading threads on how it may not be suitable for UW , as some of the more competitive DSLR's without the live view.

Problem I'm having, is the housing's all cost about the same, around $1,200 for a Ikelite.

So i thought after reading all weekend on here, might as well go with a 10MP DSLR that just came out, and spend a few more hundred dollars on the camera, because either way I'm still spending $1,200 bucks on a housing, either way I turn.

SO I'm holding on right now, to make sure this purchase is going to be what I want.

Also, I notice the Canon's and Nikon's do very well on re-sale, in-case I want to upgrade down the road.

How do you think the Olympus DLSR's will do if In a year I want to upgrade?

Click on "my web page" at the bottom of this response. The trip report "Colorful Cozumel" has images taken with my E-330.

I don't know about resale for Olympus dslr's, but I got back 50% of what I paid for my Oly c5050 cameras & housings.

From this morning, E-330 & Zuiko 50mm

This morning conditions in Santa Monica Bay were marginal, swell out of the SW, SE winds, overcast. After some discussion, we headed for our favorite local wreck, the Avalon. Scott put us on the stern of the wreck, and on his command, I dropped the anchor. Visibility wasn't the best, only about ten to fifteen feet, but adequate for my photographic needs.

Roger had loaned me his Zuiko 50mm lens and I was hot to try it out under water. I have a powerful macro lens for my Olympus E-330, a Sigma 105, but it's tricky to use and may be too much macro for most shots.

Below are some of the better images from this morning's two dives. I like this lens a lot and will purchase one in the near future (thanks, Roger).

Doriopsilla albopunctata

California Cone shell (Conus californicus)

Garibaldi eggs (you can see the little gold embryonic fish)

Scott found this little Hopkin's Rose (Okenia rosacea) - this image is cropped.

Painted greenling (Oxylebius pinctus)

Ling cod (Ophiodon elongatus) with copepod parasites

Rubberlip seaperch (Rhacochilus toxotes)

Calico rockfish (Sebates dalli)

Srtipedfin Ronquil (Rathbunella hypoplecta)

Doriopsilla spaldingi (named after San Diego's George Spalding)

PS Water was a toasty 56 degrees on the bottom.

Dam those are some awsome pictures !! I'm looking up the 50mm lens now, and they are not that expensive, and take great close up's.

I may just go ahead and start off with this camera, I been researching these cameras all weekend, and I'm about to go nuts!!

Also, how do you like the live view?

That is why I choose the E-330 , coming for a point and shoot like the C-8080

I chose the E-330 for several reasons:

1) live view! I'm old and trying to see in that little viewfinder inside a housing while looking through a dive mask...you get the picture. The 2.5 inch LCD is bright and easy to use. I don't have to have my face up against the housing while taking pictures, another advantage.

2) I moved up from an Oly c5050 - a wonderful u/w camera - so I was sold on Oly.

3) My mentor, RogerC, is an optics person and thinks the 4/3rds Zuiko lenses are fantastic pieces of glass.

4) Did I mention Live View?

Well, you won the auction on E-bay so you have committed to buying the 330. No backing out now - that would be unethical and also against ebay rules, right?

Cheers

James

Note that Liveview (or equivalent) doesn't work for everyone. As I get older, I am losing the ability to see anything close. I need glasses to read or use a computer. The problem is made worse underwater as everything appears closer. A prescription mask just wouldn't work. I am basically unable to use the LCD on my D70 for anything more than exposure assessment and maybe framing. Despite the viewfinder on the D70 being tiny, I am able to use it quite effectively.

If I was about the buy a camera for underwater use I would buy the Nikon D200 without hesitation. In fact, it is quite likely that in the next 12 months I will replace my D70 with a D200 and get an Ikelite housing (as I already have ports and strobes).

But as James says, you already have the E-330 so there is no longer a choice to be made.

Yes, and I just made the plundge and went with the E-330, and just paid for it !! Now I'm shopping for a housing for it, guess I'm off to the world of DSLR's

Note that Liveview (or equivalent) doesn't work for everyone. As I get older, I am losing the ability to see anything close. I need glasses to read or use a computer. The problem is made worse underwater as everything appears closer. A prescription mask just wouldn't work. I am basically unable to use the LCD on my D70 for anything more than exposure assessment and maybe framing. Despite the viewfinder on the D70 being tiny, I am able to use it quite effectively.

 

If I was about the buy a camera for underwater use I would buy the Nikon D200 without hesitation. In fact, it is quite likely that in the next 12 months I will replace my D70 with a D200 and get an Ikelite housing (as I already have ports and strobes).

 

But as James says, you already have the E-330 so there is no longer a choice to be made.

Yes, for my first set up, I have to buy ports, and two strobes, I'm going to go with 2 Ikelite DS-125's , so i have alot to buy.

Once I have the storbes, and get fimilar with shooting DSLR's under water, I will progress to somthing like the Nikon D-80, Or D-200. The strobes can go from camera to camera, so the investment will not be so large as it is now.

I got the camera for $520.00 from olympusauctions on Ebay, new, with 2 lens, so I thougth I got a good deal.

After shooting the Oly C-5060, and C-8080, and being very happy with those camera's, I'm glad to stay in the Olympus family with the E-330

Looks like tomorrow I'll be calling B&H and buying a ton of stuff!

I don't have any experience with other housing systems, but one of the great things about the Ikelite system is everything other than the housing itself is interchangeable. So, if you get an Ikelite housing for the E-330 and ports and strobes, you can reuse them all if you switch to a Nikon or Canon dSLR. The only deciding factor for the ports will be the length of the lens.

Of course, this may be true for other manufacturers.

Like ATJ said, the strobes, arms, cords, ports are useable with the newer/better cameras; lenses can be, if you stick to cameras that can use them.

I've been having a great time with the 330 for almost a year. If, and when, the Olympus E-1P (or whatever they call it) comes out - and has "live-view," I may upgrade - camera body & housing; everything else I already have.

Like ATJ said, the strobes, arms, cords, ports are useable with the newer/better cameras; lenses can be, if you stick to cameras that can use them.

 

I've been having a great time with the 330 for almost a year. If, and when, the Olympus E-1P (or whatever they call it) comes out - and has "live-view," I may upgrade - camera body & housing; everything else I already have.

What's the difference between the live view on the 330 and the newer ones?

Mike

What's the difference between the live view on the 330 and the newer ones?

 

Mike

The E-330 has two live-views, Mode A & Mode B. Mode A has a mirror that splits the light from the lens, with one beam going to a sensor that feeds the LCD - no noticeable shutter lag and almost real time display. When set to Mode B, the mirror assembly has to move out of the way for metering, autofocus does not activate unless you press the AEL button, and you get a shutter lag of several seconds. In Mode B, the display is directly off the main sensor and is real time. In Mode B you can use a 10x multiplier for precise manual focus. Mode B is wonderful when shooting from a tripod at a non-moving subject when you want exact focus. Mode B is useless, underwater. Mode A is very like the live-view you are used to on your point and shoot, but with much less shutter lag.

The E-410/E-510 only have live-mode B.

Hi all,

I just wanted to make a general comment, since I stood before the same topic around Xmas time. Since then I have done about 70 dives with my dSLR setup.

The step from the "Live view" of a compact to the view finder of a dSLR camera worried me. How would it work etc etc.

At the end I decided for the Nikon D80 with the INON angle view finder. I had no problems to adjust to the view finder. It took me about 2 dives or so, until I actually started to prefer the View finder over the Live view. The reason for that is the clearer and sharper picture.

A really big advantage for the View finder solution is the battery life. The worst battery eater in a camera is by far the LCD Monitor. If you use a system with Live view, you will need to change batteries between dives. I tend to need to change my 4GB memory card before I need to change batteries. This reduces hazzle and also decreases the risk of flooding.

Every person, a different mind & different experience.

Anyway, take this as a my experience in going from Live-view to View finder. It was much much easier than I thought.