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Posted

I have such a weird problem that I desperately need some advice on. Leaving on a trip in two days and my brand new equipment is not working. Any advise would be HUGELY appreciated!
 
The problem shows it self when taking flash pictures in continues mode. If I have the flashes dialed into the lowest output I can visually see the flashes firing for every shot I take. However, when reviewing the images only the first frame is being lit by the flash, all others have zero flash light on them. This is irrespective of if I shoot 1 or 10 frames per second. 
 
The really troubling part is that the problem comes and goes seemingly in a random manor. If the camera sits for an hour then suddenly it works perfectly and I can take as many as 20 frames per second and every frame is lit by the flash. If I then wait some hours or a day, suddenly the problem is back even though no connection or camera adjustments have been made. I have tried many ways but still have not been able to force the error. 
 
- Nikon z8 camera with 24-50 mm lens, Inon z330 flash with Inon cable. Camera is set at M mode at about 1/125th of a sec, f6,7 and ISO 200, flash sync speed 1/200 sec (not FP), flash sync speed is 1/60. The flash is in manual mode, lowest flash output and the ACC button is pressed and locked into place. 
- It is the same problem with both the Inon z330 flashes and a Sea&Sea YD-D1 flash. 
- Also identical problem when changing fiber optic cable from Inon to Sea&Sea. 
- Both these flash brands also all works perfectly with a Nikon D850 in a Sea&Sea D850 house with Sea&Sea flash trigger. 
- I have even connected the Nikon Z8 to the Sea&Sea house and its built in optical flash trigger and then everything works. When then moving the Z8 camera back to the Nauticam house without any camera adjustments the problem comes back. 
- The Z8 also works perfectly with a Nikon flash attached to the hot shoe. This is the argument that Nikon customer service uses to claim the camera functions as it should. The camera is also updated to the latest firmware.
- Total reset of all camera settings does not solve the problem either.
- I have received a new manual flash trigger from Nauticam but the problem is the same.
- Everything works perfectly when I connect the Z8 via a sea&sea electric cable instead of fiber optic cable (see picture). I do however not have any way of fitting the cable into the Nauticam "house holes".
 
Sorry for the long post but I have tried sooo many things without success and neither Nauticam nor Nikon have managed to help so far. Please, any idea on how to fix this??
Posted

This is likely a Flash Sync issue with the nauticam flash trigger. I have had variations of this problem both D850 and Z8 cameras and the nauticam trigger but with the Backscatter MF1 strobe. I resolved it by working with Backscatter who got Nauticam to send me an adjusted trigger that disabled PreFlash Learning logic.

 

Before you get in to all of that, be very careful to take a SINGLE shot when you first turn on the strobe. If you take more than one in quick sucssession some strobes strobe may incorrectly learn the wrong sync pattern. The Inon should follow the PreFlash setting of the control knob, which should be DOWN in your case. Make sure that is so.

 

Barring that, you may need to swap out the nauticam flash trigger. Perhaps you can get the S&S one to fit in the nauticam with a little creativity? (And some Sugru moldable rubber)

  • Like 1
Posted

A Nauticam manual flash trigger should just work from the x-sync contacts, this is why they allow for example the olympus cameras to sync at higher than rated shutter speed.  Does the Z8 recognise the trigger as a flash - that is to say does it show any of the flash functions in the menus?   When working with fibre optics both the camera/trigger and the flash need to be set correctly. 

 

If I recall correctly the Z8 doesn't have a shutter so may not have classic x-sync contacts, but check if the camera recognizes a flash as being connected,  If it doesn't the fault seems like it must lie in the trigger.  If it is recognised by the camera then maybe some adjustments in the camera might help?

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks Dave and Chris for taking the time to help me. Very appreciated!

 

Yes, the control knob for the pre flash is pressed down on the strobe. 

 

Regarding firing single shoots: I have tried to take a single picture when starting up the flash but it does not help. If firing in single mode I need to wait about one second in between pictures, then it works. Anything faster is not working. I can also see a green light lighting up for a second after each red LED flash is sent to the strobe. I assume this should indicate that the LED works correctly.

 

When it comes to asking Nauticam to disable the PreFlash Learning logic I will contact them to investigate that idea further.

 

I have considered trying to retrofit the Sea&Sea converter into the Nauticam house but unfortunately I can't see it practically work since the Sea&Sea trigger is very "bulky". 

 

Now regarding if the camera recognises the flash. When connecting a Nikon flash two flash symbols appear in the monitor/viewfinder. When connecting the Inon strobes they don't appear neither when connected via the flash trigger or directly via a X-sync cable. Despite this I do however wonder if this is the problem for several reasons: 1) Sometimes the set up works perfectly, irrespective of set up and settings. 2) When connected via X-sync cable everything works fine despite no flash symbol. 3) Even when not working correctly the flashes do fire.

 

With all above in mind, do you have any more ideas? 

 

 

Posted
1 hour ago, Johan Sundelin said:

 

Now regarding if the camera recognises the flash. When connecting a Nikon flash two flash symbols appear in the monitor/viewfinder. When connecting the Inon strobes they don't appear neither when connected via the flash trigger or directly via a X-sync cable. Despite this I do however wonder if this is the problem for several reasons: 1) Sometimes the set up works perfectly, irrespective of set up and settings. 2) When connected via X-sync cable everything works fine despite no flash symbol. 3) Even when not working correctly the flashes do fire.

 

With all above in mind, do you have any more ideas? 

 

If no flash symbol shows up and apparently the trigger is not recognized by the camera as a flash, this is the behavior expected of the Nauticam manual flash trigger.  Basically the camera internally closes a switch connected with the shutter release timed so that it syncs with shutter first curtain.  If this is the case it implies that there is nothing that can be done on the camera end and it lies within the trigger.  

 

I think it also implies that any sort of pre-flash logic is not the issue.  If the camera is X-syncs like a regular camera it uses a single electro mechanical switch to signal to the flash trigger to light up  and bypasses any other logic in the camera.

 

I note you say an electrical connection works fine - presumably this is using a flash hotshoe connection to have a cable connected to the socket on the flash (no fibre optics involved).  So this is completely leaving the flash trigger out of the equation if I understand correctly. THis also points to the flash trigger as your problem.  It basically confirms the switch in the camera closes for every frame to trigger the flash.

Posted

I tend to agree with your conclusion Chris. And yes, when i bypass the flash trigger via a Nikonos style sync cord, instead of a fiber optic cable, then everything works. Since I already have the sync cable I'm leaning towards trying to buy the Nauticam bulkhead connection when landing in Miami ahead of the trip. That would save my trip and buy time for Nauticam to solve the trigger problem. It seems that they now finally are realising that there might be a problem with their trigger (instead of with the user😊) .

  • Like 1
Posted

One other thought. May not apply here given the symptoms but its easy to check.

 

On a recent trip a friend had a problem with his Nauticam flash trigger. After swapping around triggers we decided if was likely an electrical connection going bad.

 

We first checked and resoldered the hot shot cable to the circuit board. That didn't do it. Next we opened the hour shoe itself. It has a couple of little screws. The wires were frayed and a total mess. It was simple to clip them off, strip clean wire, and resolder. Problem solved.

 

I would closely inspect the wire connections and take the hot shoe apart to examine it. A multi meter to test continuity of the wires can help as well.

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