Hello everyone

I just got back from a trip to Raja Ampat where I tried several times to take split shots of reefs while snorkeling.

To make it easier, I used an 8.5" acrylic dome, put swimming armbands on my strobes arms, and also placed my housing on a swimming board.

Despite all this, I found it particularly difficult.

What are your techniques for easily taking split shots while snorkeling?

Thanks

Snorkelling or diving is pretty much the same for splits. You need the camera slightly submerged.

I thought the swimming bands on the strobe arms a super idea. I did wonder though whether putting the housing on a swimming board would make it difficult to submerge.

Sitting on the inside of a partially inflated BCD (so sitting on the BCD's back rest) was the method I'd found reasonably effective. You can play around a little to start with increasing the air in the BCD until you get the right level of buoyancy. You can also sort of rest on the BCD and push it down or angle it with your arms.

Sorry to diverge but I‘d like to add an issue that I have with splits - viewfinder? I have more or less a compact setup so only the lcd on the back. It is not only too dim but also „split level“ with half of it above &below the surface.I can‘t even see where the waterline is in the real frame.

Any solutions for that other than spray and pray?

Hi JB ;)

I'm adding my own contribution: I once had great success in a dive by reverting my 45º viewfinder to point downwards, meaning I was fully underwater, able to look into the viewfinder while still my head fully underwater.

I don't know if that's clear, but the advantage is that my own weight was fully supported by my own buoyancy / BCD, the floating arms were stretched downwards to have some light underneath - and some additional flotation, and I was able to keep my housing at split level by using my own lungs / BCD mechanism in those wavy conditions

Here is the result

I took a few minutes to draw 2 schematics to explain my previous post, hope it makes it clearer.

I already tried this technique once (cf. above), but I think I'll try it again.

I think my suggestion applies to split-shots done with scuba-diving equipments on (at the beginning or end of a dive), and NOT to the snorkeling use-case you're talking about JB, but I wanted to add my 2 cents :)

Edited 19 hours ago19 hr by Mathieu Cornillon

Hi @Klaus

"Spray and pray" that made me giggle 😂

My mode with a compact is "hit and hope" mode for splits. It's really so hard to judge when the water is moving, you really need flat conditions to judge it.

Here's my effort with my Olympus TG-6 and INON UWL-100 wide angle lens. It's not edited.

Good luck with the journey, it's all about patience and practice.

Thanks @Mathieu Cornillon for taking the time to draw this magnificent plan 😍

To be honest, when I'm diving, with my tank and BCD, I don't really have any trouble taking split shots.

My real problem is when I want to take split shots while snorkeling.
With the weight of the housing, strobes, etc... I really struggle to keep it above water.

Even with the added equipment I explained earlier, my camera still sinks.

I guess it should be easier without any strobes, but when the ambiant light is too low, I need them

Perhaps placing the housing on my inflated BCD, as @TimG suggested, would be a good idea.

I'll test it soon...

@JB_Cazajous ”I really struggle to keep it above water.

Even with the added equipment I explained earlier, my camera still sinks.”

Yep, exactly! Even with scuba it can be the same problem. Housings with all their attachments are very heavy out of the water. Floating it on a partially inflated BCD solved the problem.

I’ve found it much easier to be snorkeling. Strobes a bit down to light up and even out exposre. I guess the design of the housing also comes into play. Never had any real issues with my old Hugyfot housings, have yet to try with my new Naticam set-up. Fisheye a must.

Edited 1 hour ago1 hr by Christian K