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Proven 3D printed Parts For Underwater Imaging

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15 minutes ago, Yorkie88 said:

Have you got any tips for making the trays? I've been trying to make one for an MF-2 for a while but I'm hopeless with the 3D models and designing 🤦🏻‍♂️

I measured up and drew the outline, ready to use https://www.tooltrace.ai/ but I can never quite get it right

I can make an MF-2 tray pretty quickly. I played with tooltrace and similar but they only created flat outlines and a sculpted round one is better for this application of lenses and strobes.

These are easy as you just make a stack of appropriately sized cylinders to model the object. Then you save that model. Make a gridfinity tray of the needed size using a parametric modeler, fully filled to the brim. Import the object model as a negative modifier and position in the tray. Done!

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  • Tino Dietsche
    Tino Dietsche

    Hello everyone, Since my used Nauticam WWL-1 lens didn't come with a back cap, I made a suitable one. It also works for the bayonet mount. I hope someone can use this. https://makerworld.com/en/mo

  • brightnight
    brightnight

    N120 body cap found on Thingiverse worked for me:   https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5326351/files         Files attached too: Nauticam N120 Port Cover Male

  • Tino Dietsche
    Tino Dietsche

    Hello everyone, Over the last few weeks I have created new parts for underwater photography for the 3D printer, perhaps one or two of you can use some of them. This time they are parts that are i

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20 minutes to design. 3.5 hours to print it out! Will share it out after it's validated.

I needed one of these anyways, will also be making cutouts for the HF-1 and Atom too, if they will fit in my drawer. The lens cutouts were a start on cleaning out a chaotic cabinet full of gear and getting things into the drawers currently full of random plumbing and electrical parts.

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Edited by Dave_Hicks

10 hours ago, Dave_Hicks said:

20 minutes to design. 3.5 hours to print it out! Will share it out after it's validated.

I needed one of these anyways, will also be making cutouts for the HF-1 and Atom too, if they will fit in my drawer. The lens cutouts were a start on cleaning out a chaotic cabinet full of gear and getting things into the drawers currently full of random plumbing and electrical parts.

image.png

That looks great! I'd been trying to design it with the ball mount parallel to the base.....but your design made me realise it can just stick up and still fit in the drawer, and that means it's a smaller footprint for the grids too! And the buttons having their own holes will stop it rotating in the holder.

What do you use for the modelling? I need to learn how to do the basics and get my drawer tidied up 😁

3 hours ago, Yorkie88 said:

That looks great! I'd been trying to design it with the ball mount parallel to the base.....but your design made me realise it can just stick up and still fit in the drawer, and that means it's a smaller footprint for the grids too! And the buttons having their own holes will stop it rotating in the holder.

What do you use for the modelling? I need to learn how to do the basics and get my drawer tidied up 😁

The only part i designed was the MF-2 body form. In fusion360. I auto generated the tray, then positioned the MF-2 as a negative modifier to the tray in the slicer. Added some text and color accents in the slicer.

Here is the MF-2 negative model.

BS MF-2 Strobe Negative.stl

Edited by Dave_Hicks

Hello everybody,

And here comes the next part for my underwater photography setup, which might also be useful for others. To prevent my MFO-1 lens from getting scratched during transport, I quickly made a simple cap yesterday. Together with my protective cap for the Nauticam bayonet, this allows the MFO-1 lens mounted on the Nauticam bayonet to be transported safely and well protected.

2026-01-30_19h-32m-10s.jpg 2026-01-30_19h-31m-54s.jpg

Downloads:
Front-Cover for MFO-1 - https://makerworld.com/de/models/2326198-front-cover-for-nauticam-mfo-1#profileId-2541153

Rear-Cover for Nauticam Bajonet - https://makerworld.com/de/models/1346497-rear-cover-for-nauticam-wwl-1-bajonet-mount#profileId-1388138

Greetings from Switzerland,

Tino

10 minutes ago, Tino Dietsche said:

Hello everybody,

And here comes the next part for my underwater photography setup, which might also be useful for others. To prevent my MFO-1 lens from getting scratched during transport, I quickly made a simple cap yesterday. Together with my protective cap for the Nauticam bayonet, this allows the MFO-1 lens mounted on the Nauticam bayonet to be transported safely and well protected.

2026-01-30_19h-32m-10s.jpg 2026-01-30_19h-31m-54s.jpg

Downloads:
Front-Cover for MFO-1 - https://makerworld.com/de/models/2326198-front-cover-for-nauticam-mfo-1#profileId-2541153

Rear-Cover for Nauticam Bajonet - https://makerworld.com/de/models/1346497-rear-cover-for-nauticam-wwl-1-bajonet-mount#profileId-1388138

Greetings from Switzerland,

Tino

Nice. I solved that problem a little differently and made a tpu hood that stays on all the time, especially when diving.

IMG20250413180837.jpg

Personalized:

MFO-1 Hard Cap.jpg

Very interesting part we find here...

What I like are not the part (they are good) but the idea from the other... They are so many different methode / concept...

I really need to start again building my own parts... .but since 3 month... no time... to many work at work... I need holiday

  • 3 weeks later...

I created the attached N85 focus gear for a Sigma 10-18mm zoom on my Sony a6700. I took the Canon 8-15 zoom gear that @Chris Ross posted here, and modified it to fit the Sigma. I'm using the housing zoom knob in the NA-A6700, since my N85-N120 adapter doesn't have the integrated zoom knob (my preference, tbh). While I haven't tested it wet yet everything fits and zooms correctly.

A few notes/changes from Chris's model:

  • Added the four "guide nubs" on the geared end to help keep the gear aligned around the lens

  • Thickened the "front" end to make up for the smaller lens diameter from the 8-15mm

  • Increased the length overall from 41mm to 54mm

  • Used a few pieces of cloth medical tape to give the inside of the ring some grip in addition to closing up the clearance (honestly I didn't want to redo the model to make up for about 1mm total extra clearance)

  • When aligning the gear on the lens, you need to make sure the guide nub doesn't catch on the white raised "lens alignment" dot. It will keep you from using the full zoom range if it is in the way

  • An M3 locknut and 16mm m3 screw are used to tighten down the ring on the lens's zoom ring

Printing notes:

  • Printed in regular PLA, 35% infill, with a 7mm outside brim to promote adhesion to the print bed

  • Used a Bambu A1 Mini, and have the 3mf if anyone prefers that

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N85 Sigma 10-18mm Zoom Ring v2-fixed.stl

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