Grantmac

I do tend to have the ISO up a bit otherwise I get a lot of backscatter with the strobes up high due to how much particulate we've got.

I have a Hydra WSR 1500, it's okay but the anodizing is very poor. I haven't been able to get it to turn off with the strobe either (it's supposed to).

How did you seal the PETG? I am experimenting with ABS sealed using Dichtol for floats at the moment.

I'm in the market for a n85 16mm, I'm curious about material too.

I personally haven't had much luck unlocking a phone in the Divevolk. Could be my big fingers or drygloves. If I person could hack the bluetooth controller in the weefine case you could likely use it for some basic controls. There are 5 buttons plus the shutter.

I own both a Divevolk and a Weefine phone case, in my opinion the Weefine would be a far better option if you want to use the phone as a passive monitor. You might even be able to hack the external buttons for some control but that's beyond me.

I guess I can always make one then pressure test without monitor. I've wondered about the printed ports as well.

3D printing would probably need some sort of fiber reinforced filament. An older compact camera housing seems like a good idea as well.

I would be interested in a housing which was JUST a passive monitor. No need for any sort of control. I've been looking for a Weefine phone case with ruined electronics to see if I could turn it into a monitor housing by installing a cable passthrough at the depth sensor.

Very nice, Do you do any special treatment to keep the parts from losing buoyancy? I have a much less ambitious project to create a single flip which works overtop of the Nauticam bayonet system so I can remove my WWL-1 (on bayonet) and flip a diopter into place. Adding some buoyancy along the way would be useful.

Adapting a Tokina was something I considered but the speed booster isn't exactly cheap either. It seems like S&S or N120 can be swapped back and forth using different bayonet fittings which is useful. The Zen adapter adds 60mm which seems to be what Nauticam and Zen call for with any of the N120 domes.

I realize I could use Nauticam or Zen domes, however on the used market S&S are far less expensive. The 60mm extension on that adapter seems to line up with the required extensions on the S&S and Nauticam port charts. My WWL-1 does cover most of my use cases except it makes the camera significantly larger and heavier. Some sort of zoom in a dome would be far more convenient on a lot of dives. Either a native MFT or adapted lens.

Does anyone else find it frustrating that mirrorless housings don't permit the cameras articulated screen to be tilted upward at 45 degrees or so? I'd not be looking at monitors or additional view finders if that was accommodated by the housing.

I am currently shooting M4/3 cameras in Nauticam housings with N85 flat ports plus water contact optics (WWL-1 and diopters) with the 12-50ez kit lens. Although I'm happy enough with the WWL-1 I do wish it wasn't such a massive piece of glass to deal with. Also I find myself never removing it although I've just gotten the bayonet mount so that may change. I find myself frequently diving with the 12-50 just behind a flat port and wishing it was a touch wider. When I'm using the WWL-1 I wish it was wider still. Which brings me to the question. I'm tempted by a dome and I see that Zen offers an adapter for Sea&Sea domes which seem to be available at less than painful prices. Does anyone have experience with adapting either the NX Compact dome 150 or one of the larger domes on a M4/3 in a Nauticam housing? The use case would be wreck and CFWA plus occasional freediving. Thanks, Grant

Anyone is free to release a design for 3D printing. If it's really that complex of a design they will charge for it but these definitely are not.

Sure wish you'd listed that M50ii two weeks ago 😅 Oh well I'm sure someone will get great use out of it.

try this: https://www.paulillsley.com/GoPro_Underwater_Wi-Fi_Cable_Setup/ I'd probably encapsulate the ends in epoxy but for a test they can probably just be left bare. Definitely test your particular camera's app above water to see if the function is useable though.

Is this the regular double flip or the one specifically designed for the MWL?

You need to make an antenna, which is very possible to DIY. I've considered it but the app for my camera is rather laggy.

I'd be happy to trade an N85 Macro Port 65. Conversely an N85 Extension 17 could work for what I'm trying to do. Thanks, Grant

I'd love to be able to adapt Seafrogs ports to Nauticam. Maybe I need to do some designing.

A M4/3 with some intelligent lens choices seems like the way to go. I've had very good luck on the used market shopping for cameras in the 6-10 year old range which still produce excellent results.

I will say this SeaFrogs will sell any part at a reasonable price. I can't get tiny parts from Nauticam at ANY price.

You have to shoot the WWL-1 at 28mm FF equivalent. So yes, HOWEVER, at 14-15mm the lens both performs better and doesn't vignette. CORRECTION: it's 12-50 not 13-50 and I like it although apparently quality varies among samples. It's also quite long which I don't mind.

The housing is aluminum, but I'd really hesitate if their internal components aren't similarly upgraded. I own a SeaFrogs salted for A6xxx as my first housing, overall the housing and port does the job but it's how you interact with the camera that isn't well engineered.