Grantmac

You can get a green light sucking by mouth in a pinch 😅

I'd rather see images which are imperfect and REAL over anything which has been "improved" by AI. I have even less patience for generative AI and the theft it requires. I absolutely hate that I have to distrust everything I see on a screen now.

There is an EM1-II for $1000 in the classifieds that would offer you a massive opportunity for less than the cost of a dome.

Okay thanks, was worried I was missing something. The MFO-3 or MWL-1 on the 45mm would be an interesting experiment.

Pardon my ignorance but doesn't a diopter just shorten focal length and so not really offer anything for a lens which can focus on the glass anyway?

It's interesting bit eye watering expensive for a fairly simple peripheral. I've been toying with using a left handed gaming keyboard which are available used fairly often.

I'm shopping for my first macro and sitting between the 45mm Panasonic or 60mm Olympus. I already have the port for the Olympus but it seems like a lot of lens for what I do. I'd likely get the MFO-3 to go with either one.

Excellent thank you.

Yes I'm curious to see an image taken with the 8-15 on a MFT, unless one has been posted and I've just missed it?

I'm rather interested in the 8-15 on my EM1-II, despite having a WWL-1. Does anyone have an example image of it without the speedbooster and with?

I have the special port and zoom gear plus 12-50 lens, it really is a generalist. I mostly use it I'm the macro port with a diopter however. I haven't tried it behind a dome. However I'd be looking at the 60mm macro and MFO-3 for everything except wide angle. The WWL-1 works really well with the 12-50 other than needing a little zoom in plus it's a heavy lens. If you have the 30mm macro then the Weefine/Kraken KRL-09S is a lighter wide angle option.

Bumping this up a little since I'm looking for a 45 degree viewfinder for an EM1-ii, how significant do you think trying to find the newer MIL version is vs the original DSLR?

I do tend to have the ISO up a bit otherwise I get a lot of backscatter with the strobes up high due to how much particulate we've got.

I have a Hydra WSR 1500, it's okay but the anodizing is very poor. I haven't been able to get it to turn off with the strobe either (it's supposed to).

How did you seal the PETG? I am experimenting with ABS sealed using Dichtol for floats at the moment.

I'm in the market for a n85 16mm, I'm curious about material too.

I personally haven't had much luck unlocking a phone in the Divevolk. Could be my big fingers or drygloves. If I person could hack the bluetooth controller in the weefine case you could likely use it for some basic controls. There are 5 buttons plus the shutter.

I own both a Divevolk and a Weefine phone case, in my opinion the Weefine would be a far better option if you want to use the phone as a passive monitor. You might even be able to hack the external buttons for some control but that's beyond me.

I guess I can always make one then pressure test without monitor. I've wondered about the printed ports as well.

3D printing would probably need some sort of fiber reinforced filament. An older compact camera housing seems like a good idea as well.

I would be interested in a housing which was JUST a passive monitor. No need for any sort of control. I've been looking for a Weefine phone case with ruined electronics to see if I could turn it into a monitor housing by installing a cable passthrough at the depth sensor.

Very nice, Do you do any special treatment to keep the parts from losing buoyancy? I have a much less ambitious project to create a single flip which works overtop of the Nauticam bayonet system so I can remove my WWL-1 (on bayonet) and flip a diopter into place. Adding some buoyancy along the way would be useful.

Adapting a Tokina was something I considered but the speed booster isn't exactly cheap either. It seems like S&S or N120 can be swapped back and forth using different bayonet fittings which is useful. The Zen adapter adds 60mm which seems to be what Nauticam and Zen call for with any of the N120 domes.

I realize I could use Nauticam or Zen domes, however on the used market S&S are far less expensive. The 60mm extension on that adapter seems to line up with the required extensions on the S&S and Nauticam port charts. My WWL-1 does cover most of my use cases except it makes the camera significantly larger and heavier. Some sort of zoom in a dome would be far more convenient on a lot of dives. Either a native MFT or adapted lens.

Does anyone else find it frustrating that mirrorless housings don't permit the cameras articulated screen to be tilted upward at 45 degrees or so? I'd not be looking at monitors or additional view finders if that was accommodated by the housing.