waso

I don't know how you set your focus point... If you can track that using a software, it would be obviously helpful. But if you used a relatively small aperture and the focus point is somewhere on the subject, it shouldn't be a problem to assess the image quality in any case. In underwater wide-angle photography, the edges of the image, and especially the corners, are always problematic in terms of sharpness due to the laws of physics. Therefore, it is a constant struggle for underwater photographers to assemble a camera system that overcomes these physical limitations.😁

Yes, exactly! If you take a look at page 1 of this thread, I already posted some images in standard web size and 100% crops from the corners.

Thanks for the pictures! Do you know if they were all taken at the minimum focal length? Can you use the 24mm lens without vignetting? Could you perhaps show 100% crops from the relevant corners?

Sold!!!

Thanks for your statement. Would you mind showing some images with crops from the corners?

Is it possible to get 100% crops from the corners (as I posted with my images above)? It would probably be interesting not only for me.

Sold!!!

No decision yet. Right now I'm busy selling off the remaining Seacam equipment and a few Nauticam items, ordering the Commlite adapter and then testing it in comparison with the Kenko on my 8-15. Personally, I'm not interested in a rectilinear wide-angle lens behind the dome as the optical quality has simply been too poor in my experience. If you have sample shots and 100% crops from the corners with your RF 24-50/WWL-C, it would be nice to have a look.

Almost 20 years ago, I used a similar setup with a Sigma 150/2.8 and an expensive Raynox in the Philippines. The image quality was 'okay' (compared to today's Nauticam SMC-1/2), but you could only photograph very small objects with the internal close-up lens, making it extremely limited in its versatility. I definitely wouldn't recommend it.

I'm selling a Seacam zoom ring for the Canon EF 8-15/4 fisheye lens including a Kenko 1.4x teleconverter. Very good condition, fully functional. Shipping from Germany. As this is a private sale, the item is sold without any warranty, guarantee, or warranty. Liability for damages resulting from injury to health, body, or life, and for gross negligence and/or willful misconduct on my part as the seller, remains unaffected.

I'm selling a Nauticam 70mm extension ring (N120) for a 120mm port diameter (SKU # 21170). Fully functional, but with a few scratches (see photos). Shipping from Germany. As this is a private sale, the item is sold without any warranty, guarantee, or warranty. Liability for damages resulting from injury to health, body, or life, and for gross negligence and/or willful misconduct on my part as the seller, remains unaffected.

I'm selling a Nauticam acrylic dome port (SKU # 18802), size 8.5", for the N120 port diameter, including neoprene protection. The glass is absolutely scratch-free and the whole dome port shows only minimal signs of use. Shipping from Germany. As this is a private sale, the item is sold without any warranty, guarantee, or warranty. Liability for damages resulting from injury to health, body, or life, and for gross negligence and/or willful misconduct on my part as the seller, remains unaffected.

I've been using these float arms from Mike-Dive (whom you might remember from the past) on my macro port for many years and I'm very happy with them. Even shooting on the sea floor (which I prefer anyway) isn't a problem, as I simply remove two of the floating elements and position the resulting gap at the bottom.

Ok, but are you sure you want to use a wetdiopter permanently? This means you forfeit the possibility of using the macro lens without a wetdiopter. I personally wouldn't want to do without it.

The opposite is true for me: If I would attach and remove the heavy close-up lenses, my system would change the balance every time.

Can't you attach a flip adapter to your macro port? That makes using wet close-up lenses much more convenient, safer, and faster.

Thanks for the link! It will provide me with good entertainment for this evening. 😁

Actually, the WWL was never on my shopping list. Before I started this thread, I was almost sure to buy a WACP-C.🫢 After Christmas, I will first buy and modify the Commlite RF/EF adapter to determine how big the IQ difference is compared to the older Kenko and after that, I'll probably buy the 140mm FE Port.

Thanks, this link works. Actually, I was already reading the whole thread a few days ago (before I started this thread).

If the light situation allows, I was always trying to shoot at least between F13 and F16 which makes the corner sharpness somehow acceptable for me, even better @ F18. With the small dome, I would probably always try to stop down to F16 as well. That's all I can squeeze out of the system (5D4 with 8-15/4), all images with a 230mm superdome: No crop, Canon 5D4, 8-15/4 (no TC), F14: 100% crop lower left corner: Slightly better with F16, same combination: 100% crop lower left corner: It sometimes makes sense to place the focus point quite far forward, because the corners of the image (at least with reef images) are usually closer to the sensor than the image center. The exception, of course, is a wall. Canon 5D4, 8-15/4 (+1,4 Kenko TC!) @ 19mm, F13: 100% crop lower right corner: Canon 5D4, 8-15/4 (+1,4 Kenko TC!) @ 21mm, F14: 100% crop lower right corner: And finally an example of the R5, 8-15/4 (no TC), F16: 100% crop lower left corner: That's something I would really appreciate.

Thanks - it's now on my shopping list. Unfortunately I just see a white rectangle and no link. 🤔 Well, I can imagine that using the 8-15 on a 4/3 is a maximum of flexibility. I asked a friend of mine to send me images from the WACP-C made with a 5D4 and an EF 28-80. I'm very curious to compare these pictures with mine, taken with the 8-15 and 1.4TC.

Well, in the worst case I have to take off the shades before the dive. Actually, I never(!) made photos with my old Seacam FMP using the 8-15 in circular mode, but in some situation it could be a nice option anyway. I would appreciate this coating on a superdome 😁... was always struggling to avoid drops in the image. Honestly: do you use the small dome for split shots? How ist the corner sharpness with your Marelux system now? Do you know the exact position of the entrance pupil of the 8-15? It might move a bit zooming in and out... The 8-15 is relatively forgiving regarding exact positioning and corner sharpness behind a dome - at least much more than a rectilinear WA lens. Do you have a link to this dome? I'm very open about 3rd party stuff (already bought something from Saga) and just curious. Btw: do you consider using the 8-15 in combination with a TC? For me it was the set up in at least 80% of my WA dives: almost no quality loss and much more flexibility - and as I wrote, I wasn't shooting circular yet.

Sorry if this answer came across as a bit harsh. 🙏 But it's a fact that a great IQ above water is no guarantee for underwater. Of course, optical disasters above water don't improve underwater, but often simple optical calculations have advantages underwater. Well, I'll post findings and results here asap, proised. At least opticallimits (photozone before) was doing some of their testings with a 5Ds, which is still the canon reference concerning resolution. And some comparisons can also be made quite well at the-digital-picture site. I'll most likely go for the 140mm FE dome first which is hardly recommended here in the forum. A good solution if the IQ is already better than with my Seacam superdome - and quite affordable and compact. And I'll try the modified Commlite adapter to shoot with the RF 1,4TC which should enable a better IQ than my old Kenko. Just need to know which extension rings I need - as far as I remember 30mm and another 20mm for the TC. And for split shots I really have to invest in a big dome some day. Btw: there is a so called Nauticam N120 9" (230mm) Fisheye Dome: https://sagadive.com/en/product/cupula-nauticam-n120-5-5-140mm-fisheye/ Is this a misinformation? I can't find this item on the Nauticam site.

I currently own an EF 8-15/4 and an RF 14-35/4. I previously owned a 16-35/4 and a 17-40/4 (didn't use this one uw). I'm familiar with these sites, but photozone is now called https://opticallimits.com/ (which I find very reputable), and I also prefer the-digital-picture for A/B comparisons. However, none of this helps in the search for high-quality lenses for underwater photography, since the complex optical designs and intricate constructions of lenses often only produce mediocre results underwater. Btw: the lenstip.com link doesn't work, but I found the website. Unfortunately, it seems that no RF lenses are tested there - at least I can't find a single review. I used the 5D4 for years and the difference in resolution between the 5D Mark IV and the R5 is much smaller in reality than it appears on paper. The long edge has 6720 px compared to 8192 px, which is just a little bit over 20% less. And of course, the RF 100/2,8 has very good optical quality - I'm using it myself.

Could someone please confirm that this is the 140mm dome port that is recommended for the 8-15/4? Thanks! Nauticam | 140mm fisheye port with removable shade (N120) | PanOceanPNauticam | 140mm fisheye port with removable shade (N120)...House of Underwater Photography | Nauticam | 140mm fisheye port with removable shade (N120 | authorized Nauticam Dealer in Germany | FREE SHIPPING within th