Davide DB

I reopen this old message because I discovered that Isotta added a mysterious "lens Holder" to their action cam accessories page with no explanation, but from the photos it seems a Inon/AOI adapter 🕵‍♀️ ISOTTA - Underwater housingsGoPro lens holder

Yesterday, their website only had the photo and the page was empty. There wasn't even a name. Today it's appeared, but the rest is still blank. As soon as they publish the specs, I'll update the list.

Hi Raptor Welcome to the forum! It's great you making the move over here! I'm sure you will find a lot of well known names. We're always happy to see new members, especially those who prefer wide-angle 🤣

Original post updated with product links, prices, and weights

Thanks for the data. You confirmed it is another brick 🙂 How are you finding it? What's your opinion? What's your use case? Regarding Kraken monitors, they kindly wrote me that both the 5" and 7" went through an upgrade. Specifically the V2 versions of the monitor haven't changed in terms of function, but they do use 21700 batteries now instead of the big battery block so they are lighter weight and much slimmer than the previous versions. Hence: The 5” V2 monitor is 1680g on land and 260g underwater The 7” V2 monitor is 1795g on land and 230g underwater. Table updated!

Inspired by an old post, and now that we've got fancy tables for our posts, I've dived into creating this little list covering most of the monitors out there. I see this topic is quite a hot one, and like many others, it pops up again now and then. I hope this can be helpful! Please help me correct and complete it.

List updated on: August 2025 Prices are just a ballpark This post will be updated based on your feedback regarding errors, omissions, and new models Housing + Monitor Model Size (inches) brightness (nits) UW Weight (g) Avg. Price (Euro) Marelux MX-SHINOBI (SDI) + Atomos Shinobi 5" 5" 1000 ? 2400 (2100 + 300) Nauticam NA-Shinobi II + Atomos Shinobi II" 5" 1500 +80 2900 (2500 + 400) Nauticam NA-Ultra5 + SmallHD Ultra 5 5" 5" 3000 +480 4900 (2700 + 2200) Sea Frogs SHIMBOL-M5 5.5" Professional Underwater Monitor Housing + Shimbol-M5 5" 1200 -280 1000 (850 + 150) Standalone Monitors Model Size (inches) brightness (nits) UW Weight (g) Avg. Price (Euro) Anglerfish HD57 4K 5.7 550 -145 1800 Kraken KRM02 V2 5 3000 -260 1300 Kraken KRM07-2200 V2 7 2200 -560 1900 Weefine WED-5 5.5 480 -260 1000 Weefine WED-5 PRO 5.5 3200 -250 1200 Weefine WED-7 PRO 7 500 -280 1600 Nauticam 7" T7 HD UltraBright Monitor 7 3000 -830 3000 SUPE/Scubalamp UM5.5 5.5 3000 -700 1000 Fotocore MR6 6 2600 ? 1300 Fotocore MR5.5 5.5 2000 -740 1 1200 Dive & See DNC-5C 5 600 -300 2900 Dive & See DNC-7B 7 450 ? 3000 1 = data obtained via private spec request Some monitors are sold under different brand names: SUPE/Scubalamp/Fotocore/Aquatech

Yes. Things I don't like: A weight of 740 grams is truly a lot. My current monitor is 260g, and I already had to add PVC bars. To counterbalance an additional 500g, I'd need to change the float arms, and there's no guarantee my whole setup would even be balanced then. I'm not thrilled about the USB charging. The monitor is always attached to the camera housing. I'd have to move the whole setup near an outlet to charge it, which is annoying, if not dangerous, especially when I'm not charging it at house. In many diving centers I would never leave the whole housing in the charging area. Last but not least: that new, extra-long cable gland sticking out the left side could really interfere with or limit the monitor's movement. In a short time, Fotocore/Scubalamp have released several iterations of their monitors, along with various strobes. This shows a great capacity for design and production. Unlike the strobes, which I've seen countless professional photographers use and provide valuable feedback on, IMHO, I believe they lack input on their monitors from serious users of these tools. Long story short: still looking for the perfect cheap monitor.

I got the user manual. Unfortunately, underwater it's 740g negative. MR5.5.pdf

I saw on FB that Fotocore/Scubalamp has a new monitor. Specs seems quite interesting but I don't know its weight underwater. On Facebook there's even a video: https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1FLf8vppof/

Hi Radar, Welcome aboard! We have a dedicate forum for compact cameras and smartphones. I'm sure you will find someone else to share experiences about this setup

Ok now everything is clear.

Wow, thanks for the detailed review and tutorial. Good to know we have all these tools available, and it's our call on how and where to best use them.

On the Orcatorch web page that spot seems different. They could have changed the charger or it's just the rendering. https://www.orcatorchstore.com/collections/u-w-photography/products/orcatorch-d910v-high-cri-neutral-white-video-light-for-underwater-photography But from that page it seems that the torch would charge from the outside, so If you are afraid that water could enter the light via the rusted pin, a new battery doesn't solve the problem or I didn't get where the problem arose.

Its MF siblings has a MFD of 18cm

Yes but I don‘t if screws and holes are compatible with the AOI lens. Impossibleto judge from the photos. I believe it's unlikely and it would be a great stroke of luck 😁

Hummm, do you mean the mount on rhe lens? I don't think AOI and Inon mount have the same way to attach to the lens. IIRC, on my AOI UWL-03 the mount is attached to the lens via 6 small screw.

From INON UFL-GR140 ZD user manual (note the R) : From INON UFL-G140 ZD user manual: I noticed that ZD is the new Inon mount for these lens and they sell a converter for the previous SD mount. Maybe they changed it to differentiate from other Brands that use the same mount 😈 On a lighter note, as I've already written, I believe that whoever names products in the tech industry is a sadist, and I imagine there's a circle of hell dedicated to them. It always brings to mind that hilarious bit from Woody Allen's "Deconstructing Harry" when he takes a little trip downstairs. The description of the circles of hell is delightful, as is the joke with the first damned soul.

Hi Anthony, Great to have you with us. We hope you will enjoy the forum!

Yes, correct. And the INON UFL-GR140 ZD you have is the updated lens to work with the new GoPros and it's made to work with the 8:7 aspect ratio 😒

Welcome aboard!

Same here, For this reason, I am still a great admirer of the M43 format, even if I have to say that Pana has somewhat betrayed the system's real strong point: compactness. The camera bodies have gradually become larger and larger, and now, if you take a GH7, it's bigger than an A7R V! https://camerasize.com/compare/#924,898 Nevertheless, the size of the lenses and ports remains. So: Option 1 (Economical): Find a used GH5M2 and housing and reuse all your lenses and ports. Option 2 (Expensive): Find a GH6 housing (finding a used one is like finding a unicorn) and put a GH7 in it. You'd reuse all your ports and lenses. Option 3 (Very Expensive): Switch to Full Frame (FF) from scratch. Here, the choice is as wide as the wallet you need to buy everything again 😆

For music in YouTube videos, downloading WAV files from Artlist is generally better than MP3. WAV is uncompressed, keeping all the original audio quality. MP3 uses "lossy" compression, removing some audio data to create smaller files. This can make the music sound less clear or "mushy," especially in detailed parts. The audio trace from your video editor does also get re-encoded when you export your final video file. This multi-step re-encoding process is exactly why starting with the highest possible quality audio file – the WAV – is so important. Original Source (Artlist): You start with either a high-quality WAV or a compressed MP3. Video Editor Export: When you export your video, your editor will encode the audio track within the video container (like MP4). If you started with an MP3, this is another round of lossy compression applied to already compressed audio. If you started with a WAV, the editor is working with full-quality audio for this first encoding step. YouTube Upload: When you upload your video, YouTube then re-encodes the audio again for streaming. Each time a lossy compression is applied, more data is discarded. 1 Starting with an MP3 means you're introducing quality loss at step 1. Then, your editor compresses it again (step 2), losing more data. Finally, YouTube compresses it a third time (step 3), leading to further degradation. In short: Start with the best quality (WAV) to get the best possible result after YouTube's processing.

Hey Zvonimiri, I don't think this light is really the right fit for what you're looking to do. The lamp you're asking about has a single, very powerful LED with a super wide 160-degree beam. It's pretty much impossible to use it for macro photography. Just to clarify: Lumen = how powerful the light output is. Lux = how much light actually hits a specific spot. Lux = Lumen / area (in square meters) So, those 15K lumens are spread out over a huge 160° area. Honestly, I'm even convinced that 160° is too wide even for wide-angle shots. For comparison, Keldan lights have a beam angle of 90 degrees! Plus, with a wide-angle light, you'd be illuminating all the water between your lens and the subject, which increases backscatter and can even light up your lens, causing diffraction. I really don't think a single, super powerful light (more than 10K lumens) that works well for both wide-angle and macro shooting exists. There are some less powerful models like the Backscatter Macro Wide 4300 that have dedicated LEDs for each function, but they risk being a bit of a "jack-of-all-trades, master of none." If you really wanted to try macro with a wide-angle light, you'd need to attach snoots. Some lamps, like Kraken ones, have a standard photographic thread on the front, letting you attach things like lens hoods. That could be an idea! Last but not least: personally, I really dislike having to control the light with just one button and having to do or remember endless sequences. Also, that specific button is known for having problems over the medium to long term. Find a light with a wheel power control. Hey, perhaps if you share what equipment you've got and the sort of WA/macro shots you're thinking of (like Mediterranean, tropical, how big the subjects are), you can really help us excel at our core talent: getting you to spend cash! 😁

A warm welcome aboard! Don't worry about the "no idea" part, that's what we're all here for – to swap tips, tricks, and maybe a few tales! Ah, the UK Legion is expanding!