Hi

Following the new MFO-3 I had a "problem"

Remove the SCM-1 ?

Remove the MFO-1 ?

No It will be a lost in flexibilty and a lot of change beetween dives.

I took the decission to change/modify my double flip into a triple flip

First the H117

Some picture from the build of the first version

Edited October 22Oct 22 by CaolIla

The first print in 2021

The SMC 1 to show the principe

First version mounted

Since the first version I made a second in black and a second arm for the MFO-1 and a little bit bigger ring to have more buoyancy

I was really happy with this solution

Now the problem I didn't have a lot of time before our holliday... I need a simple solution

first I need a holder for the MFO-3

The other part I build in the past I put the 2 pieces together with screw. thi time I try something else

The idea is to put 2 rings (in gray on the picture) printed with TPU the only risk ist to lost the MFO-3 ...

I was lucky with the first solution... then the two hinge was perfectly positionned on the ring to give me the possibilty to put a third in the middle

I build a part with 3 hinge. and on the opposite 3 hooks

All lenses can be put where I want. The idea is SMC on the left MFO-1 in the middle and the MFO-3 on the right.

Ich it's no ok I will switch the MFO depending on the result underwater.

I found a picture of the black version with 2 binge

Some test

for the MFO-3

the final version will look like that

Details of the lens/port jonction.

The thead is protected. The lense didn't touch the glas of the port, it is the holder who touch the port, but not the glas.

Don't hesitate to ask if you have some questions.

Hugues

I forgot a point, I removed the rubber on the MFO-3 (like I made on the MFO-1 and SMC-1) to block firmly the lens beetween the to PTEG parts.

With this setup I'll be able to use my RF100 make some super macro with the SMC-1 If needed put the MFO-1 (80 % of the macros shoots during the last trip) or if there is a bigger subject switch on the MFO-3....

Very nice,

Do you do any special treatment to keep the parts from losing buoyancy?

I have a much less ambitious project to create a single flip which works overtop of the Nauticam bayonet system so I can remove my WWL-1 (on bayonet) and flip a diopter into place. Adding some buoyancy along the way would be useful.

45 minutes ago, Grantmac said:

Do you do any special treatment to keep the parts from losing buoyancy?

Yes I cover the ring with epoxy
The other part are printed with 70 % filling and wall thickness 4 or 5 pass. If some water get in it is not a problem.. if a piece break It's visible and not break directly complet... it is easy to build a new part

Putting epoxy is possible but bring some dimension problems to fit the parts together.

A small update of the realisation.

With the SMC-1 in the front

the SMC-1 pulled back

In the most compact position of the 3 flip

the MFO-1 in place. In his case I can puch down the compas you see on the top of the housing.
In vaccation I didn't use the compass but I'lll mainly install an arm with a Gopro 12 to film during I take photo... if it's "necessary"

and now the MFO-3


No screw only 2 TPU to maintain the to part in PETG who maintain fermly the lens.

Why in red. because the rest is red AND I have TPU in red AND ist one of this piece starting to break It will be easier visible than black on black.

First impression it will work fine... i'm sure.
I need to test a small roation of the flip on the side of the MFO-3 to try the position of the lense when they are up.

In 2 weeks I'm in Malapascua and after in Sogod... Wide Angle and also some small stuff...

I'll publish some pictures.

I hope you had fun reading this topic and it give you some idea.