7 hours ago, ACHiPo said:

It's my understanding that the HF-1 requires a minimum discharge current to operate properly. The Nitecore NL5500HP that Backscatter initially spec'd (It's now discontinued) had a discharge current of 20A. The Nitecore NL6000HP also has a 20A discharge current, but for some reason Backscatter hasn't yet recommended it. Both Nitecores are vented/protected batteries. Backscatter now recommends the XTAR 25A discharge current 21700. I've used both the Nitecore 6000HP and XTAR 25A batteries successfully, but only for a few test shots each. Backscatter is not terribly forthcoming with battery amperage requirements, but I saw here or somewhere else that the min current of 20A was why they initially spec'd the Nitecore 5500.

I remember correpondence with Backscatter where they wrote me that the flash will shut off, when used with batteries that do not allow to draw a minimum of current, like e.g. 20A...

Who knows what the outcome could be when inserting different kind of batteries, some with, some without built in protection circuits (maybe of different kind)? A shut off of the flash might be the least problem...

=> I fear that beeing too stingy can cost a lot more money in the end (At least the price of purchasing multiple different batteries before buying the right ones; not to speak about broken equipment). At the best one could save a couple of Euros, by taking the risk. This is opposed by total costs of many thousands of Euros for the entire rig...

Wolfgang

5 hours ago, flowdesign said:

I just want to share some info that’s out there if you dig deep enough, but honestly, it’s a pain to track down. Here’s the deal: brands like Nitecore and Xtar don't actually make batteries. They just buy cells from the real manufacturers, slap on a protection board (either their own or from someone else), and wrap it in their own label.

If you check the specs from the world’s actual battery giants—Samsung, LG, Sanyo, or China’s EVE—you’ll notice something fishy: none of them make a 21700 cell with a crazy 6000mAh capacity. So, whenever I see those "super capacity" claims from these third-party brands, I’m highly skeptical.

When you’re picking a battery, ignore the marketing fluff and look at Capacity, Max Discharge Current, and Cycle Life.

• Capacity is obviously how much juice it holds.

• Max Discharge is the big one—it’s what allows your video lights or flashes to run at high power without quitting on you.

• Cycle Life is basically how many times you can recharge it before it’s trash.

In my experience, most flashes and video lights need about 20–25A of max discharge to handle 90% of what you’ll throw at them. This means your video lights stay bright and stable, and your flash recycles way faster.

Protection boards (PCBs) are there for safety—to keep things from blowing up if there's a short circuit. But here’s the catch: they often throttle the battery's performance. For instance, I’ve used high-power cells with added PCBs on Marelux flashes, and even though the cell itself was strong enough, the PCB blocked the power flow and the flash wouldn't even turn on. Plus, adding a PCB makes the battery physically longer, so it might not even fit in your gear.

---

If you’re still with me after all that technical talk, here’s how I spend my money:

1. The "In-Box" Battery: If a light comes with a branded battery, I’ll use it. At least you know the manufacturer (hopefully) tested it with that specific device.

2. Buying "Raw" Cells: For extras, I buy directly from the cell manufacturers (like Lishen, EVE, etc.). Why? Because I can see the real spec sheets and know exactly what I’m getting. Plus, it’s way cheaper.

Check this price gap:

• Lishen (The Manufacturer) 5000mAh: Usually around $5–$8. https://liionwholesale.com/collections/batteries/products/lishen-21700-lr2170sd-9-6a-flat-top-5000mah-battery-genuine

• Nitecore (The Label) 5000mAh: Usually $20–$30+. https://nitecorestore.com/products/nitecore-nl2150-21700-5000mah-rechargeable-li-ion-battery?currency=USD

I’m not trying to judge Nitecore or any other brands. I just don't think the "extra value" they provide is worth the massive markup. Personally, I’d rather go straight to the source. It gets the job done just as well, and I’m not paying 3x the price just for a fancy sticker.

Thanks, very helpful!

I think I'll go with the XTARs, since they're definitely recommended by Backscatter and are significantly cheaper than the NiteCores.

And whether the NL2160HP actually has 6000 mAh and thus a significant advantage over the XTAR, I can't even verify.