Sony/Nauticam users, I have a (dumb?) question for y'all about the LCD/ViewFinder switch on the housing. Namely: Does it actually have any function and can you really configure things to use that to switch between the two modes somehow?

As it stands, I can't see any way to get that switch to function productively. In VF position, I can definitely use the viewfinder. In LCD position, it brings down the black shutter and blocks the viewfinder, but that doesn't seem to aid in activating the LCD at all? Quite the opposite, as if the camera is in auto VF/LCD mode, blocking the viewfinder triggers the auto sensor and turns off the LCD.

So, is there a way to tweak the camera settings to make that switch functional? I've tried reading the online guides, but all I can find is info on assigning a custom button to bring up the viewfinder menu and then switching manually, but that doesn't use the switch on the housing. So, why have the switch if it is not at all functional???

As an aside, the easiest way I currently can find to switch between the two modes, is to simply turn off the camera and then turn it back on. It'll activate the LCD until the first time I look through/block the viewfinder at which point it turns off the LCD and then it stays off until I repeat the power cycle. If there's a better way, I"m all ears.

Thanks for any info you can share!

You should be able to set "Finder/Monitor" to one of the "Manual" modes and set a custom button (such as C3) to "Finder/Moniter Sel." to allow you to quickly switch between them.

1 hour ago, Isaac Szabo said:

You should be able to set "Finder/Monitor" to one of the "Manual" modes and set a custom button (such as C3) to "Finder/Moniter Sel." to allow you to quickly switch between them.

That much I have been able to learn from various guides online, but it begs the question of why there is a VF/LCD lever with an attached shutter on the housing if it has no function, and if the only way to switch between the two is the use of a custom button assignment.

Sorry, I was trying to save you from having to turn the camera off and on every time you want to switch.

I don't use the VF/LCD switch myself as I always use a monitor, but after playing around with mine, I discovered that mine only works when the back of the housing is unlatched and a few millimeters further back than when it's latched. In other words, it seems that when the housing is closed, the VF shutter is too close to the camera to work properly.

I then tried bending the VF shutter back some, though there's very little room to bend it back since the housing VF is right behind it. I also tried adding a little bit of fresh white paint inside the little rectangle at the bottom of the shutter (I suspect it plays a role since it passes over the VF sensor). After doing both of these things, my switch now sometimes works with the back latched, but it's still not reliable like when the back is unlatched. I think bending the shutter back was the thing that helped rather than adding the paint. So for a fix (assuming yours has the same issue as mine), I would suggest looking into ways to either move the shutter slightly back or the camera slightly forward.

Edited 3 hours ago3 hr by Isaac Szabo

16 minutes ago, Isaac Szabo said:

Sorry, I was trying to save you from having to turn the camera off and on every time you want to switch.

I don't use the VF/LCD switch myself as I always use a monitor, but after playing around with mine, I discovered that mine only works when the back of the housing is unlatched and a few millimeters further back than when it's latched. In other words, it seems that when the housing is closed, the VF shutter is too close to the camera to work properly.

I then tried bending the VF shutter back some, though there's very little room to bend it back since the housing VF is right behind it. I also tried adding a little bit of fresh white paint inside the little rectangle at the bottom of the shutter (I suspect it plays a role since it passes over the VF sensor). After doing both of these things, my switch now sometimes works with the back latched, but it's still not reliable like when the back is unlatched. I think bending the shutter back was the thing that helped rather than adding the paint. So for a fix (assuming yours has the same issue as mine), I would suggest looking into ways to either move the shutter slightly back or the camera slightly forward.

Thanks for both replies. My apologies if I came off as dismissive in my first response. I was trying to acknowledge that solution and bend the discussion toward the lever function.

Bending the lever restoring function is super interesting! I'll definitely look into that. I wonder if the paint actually is the key, as it doesn't make a ton of sense to have the shutter cover the VF when the switch is in LCD position, unless the reflectivity of the white paint is being used to trigger the "no eye present" signal. I'll try to adjust position and look into how that sensing system on the camera works so we can better fool it with the shutter.

No problem. My sense was that moving the VF shutter farther away from the VF sensor was what made the difference. Even before I added fresh paint, unlatching the back and letting it sit a few millimeters further back from normal made the switch very reliable. Either way, hopefully it gives you some avenues to pursue to try to get yours working.

Edited 2 hours ago2 hr by Isaac Szabo

Of note this is not present on the a7iii housing. So likely was a good idea that didn't work too well.

I wish that I could do eye detection for the EVF because the I could easily use the LCD for settings like on a traditional DSLR

20 minutes ago, Isaac Szabo said:

No problem. My sense was that moving the VF shutter farther away from the VF sensor was what made the difference. Even before I added fresh paint, unlatching the back and letting it sit a few millimeters further back from normal made the switch very reliable. Either way, hopefully it gives you some avenues to pursue to try to get yours working.

You were absolutely on the right track, and that observation cracked the nut. It was just a tiny amount of dirt on the sensor that was messing things up. I got exactly the same response to cracking the back that you did, and kept trying to figure out how to reposition the lever or move the rubber eye guard on the viewfinder to allow better position. That's when I noticed a thin film of dust on the eye sensor. A quick clean-up with a Q-tip/isopropanol, and now the VF/LCD swich works perfectly. THANK YOU! Now I can assign the C3 button for something more useful. :)

Wonderful! Glad you got it working.