TimG

It’s good to have dreams, Chris!

I’m not expert enough to be able to judge between different types of fibre optic cable. Based on my own experiences, if you’re shooting manual and your strobes have good sensors, then any Toslink-type cable seems to work. It just gets more sensitive if you use TTL. On the bend radius, this depends on what type of plugs you use. If the L-shaped ones that I highlighted, then a cable capable of bending easily, like the 613, is important. But if you’re going to use a straight plug, the bendability issue becomes less significant. I’ve found that, other than how the fibre plugs into the bulkhead, bending the cable is not an important factor. There’s unlikely to be serious bending of the cable en route to the strobes. Plugging in to the strobes is also unlikely to need major bends.

No, indeed. The Kenko TC1.4 is pretty much the go-to gizmo for getting CFWA. Are Kenko missing a trick!?

Good to have you with us! A warm welcome to Waterpixels.

Wow, the effects of a nice evening in Dharavandoo, eh? Good for you, mate. Enjoy! Bummer on those dead cables though. I hope you have spares. Thanks on this. I'm just seeing if I can get this into the EU hand-carried. If not, I'll come back to you. T

Noted! That's a lot of cable, Michael!

If you want cable and you're in the US, you can just order it directly. Easy-peasy. The problem is for folks on this side of the Atlantic where this cable just doesn't seem to be available. So a bulk order makes sense for them/us. You can order here: https://i-fiberoptics.com/fiber-detail-asahi.php?id=3360&sum=166

It’s a good idea, makar0n and probably cheaper than via NL. But @fruehaufsteher2 said he can’t manage onward distribution. I’ve organised a Red Sea dive trip for October on which a number of US residents are joining. Hmmm….. wonder if I could ask one of them to bring it in their baggage. Weighs nothing……. I’ll explore. Your 4-6m noted.

Hey! Those patch cords on your Indo link look very much like Toslink cable. This works fine if not quite as good as the Ashai 613. But for non-TTL video lights should be just fine. Just cut off the plugs, cut to length, jam into the plugs - and you should be good to go. On the "Sea&Sea plugs", just check what kind of bulkhead opening you have. All the ones I've mentioned above are bog-standard and more than likely the same as you would use on your housing. You can always rig up a way of jamming your cables into the bulkheads. Tape them to thicken them out, for example. This is not rocket science nor, usually, does it have to be super precise for non-TTL work.

Guys Can I check who actually wants cable before getting rolling with this? So far I have only heard from @Joerg Malke and @stiebs. No other takers??? I don't really need any myself so if there's only one person in the EU and one in Aus, then a bulk order becomes a bit pointless. No bulk, no order?

Hey Saudio! Welcome to Waterpixels. Great to have you with us. We hope you really enjoy the forum and get lots from it.

Each to his own, of course. But unless you've tried FEs on a wreck and really don't like the results, I wouldn't write them off. Depending how you use it, of course, it's rare that an FE distorts a wreck to such an extent that it becomes obvious because it's rare that wreck images have so many obviously straight lines (weird though that may sound). There are loads of superb wreck pics where an FE was used and you'd be hard pushed to spot that. They have the advantage too of being relatively inexpensive and can be used in small domes: great for transportation and manoeuvre in the water. But, as I say, each to his own.

Great to have you with us, dmanfish. A warm welcome to Waterpixels.

Great to have you with us, Nick. Welcome to Waterpixels. We'll probably move your membership label to "Industry" so the folks are aware that you might have a commercial interest. 😉

Mike, if you can, much better to post those images as jpgs. As HEICS, each one has to be dowloaded individually by a reader.

Hmmmmmm...... no examples eh? Be wary.....

The issue with full-frame bodies and a rectilinear lens of that range is the size of the dome and the degree to which you are happy with blurry corners. Unless there is something unusual about the RF15-35 lens design (and I'm not a user) a 6" dome is very small indeed for that type of rectilinear dome. As you may well have read on lots of posts, rectilinear lanes are best used with big domes. 8" are sort of ok-ish, 9" better. But lots of folks use even 9" domes with a Sea&Sea correction lens. All of this to achieve corners that they find acceptably sharp. My experience has been with the Nikon 16-35 on full frame. Using an 8" dome produced corners which I thought blurry; a 9" dome was much better but still not corner-sharp. I would not even try with a 6" dome. I gave up in the end as cost, transportability and IQ just became not worthwhile - and went with a Sigma 15mm FE. Problems solved! I can't offer any thoughts on the SeaFrogs combination. Maybe they have a magic formula for over-coming the issue.......

Hi Mitus! Great to have you with us. A warm welcome to Waterpixels. There's lot's on the forum on GoPros - so dig deep and enjoy!

Hi Francisco Welcome to Waterpixels! Great to have you with us.

Hi jsintek! Great to have you with us. A warm welcome to Waterpixels. We hope you enjoy the forum.

Hi tkdcol Welcome to Waterpixels. We really hope you like this new forum. If you used Wetpixel, you’re sure to recognise lots of familiar names. Good to have you with us.

Great to have you with us, Stephen! A warm welcome.

Hey Tyler im not a Sony user but that sounds like a setting on the screen needs adjusting. Setting in the menu to increase the screen brightness?

Great to have you with us. A warm welcome to Waterpixels. There would be a lot of interest in how you get on with a Nikon Z8!