TimG

High Speed Sync. Think of those situations where you are shooting into the light but want the strobes to light the subject in the foreground. So you set the shutter at a high speed (because of the ambient light) but also need the strobes to sync at speeds above those of the camera's sync speed. So with HSS you can shoot at, say, 1/2000 of s sec and still get the strobes to fire in sync. I don't think you'd use this very often for macro but I find it very useful for wide-angle shooting where, for example, you want the sunburst. Here's an example - not a great pic but it gives you the idea. This was shot at 1/320 of a second. The Retras are superb for this. As Chip says, pricey, but they are really good.

That's a good point. The wide-angle problem is pretty much solved by using a fisheye lens. It works with a small dome which, in turn, makes for easier travel, it's not so expensive (well, ok, an 8-15 isn't cheap!) - and the corners are good. I know some folks don't like the look of an FE but it solves so many FF wide-angle issues and it's a rare underwater image where the FE effect is really noticeable and distorting.

Hi scuba_jc Congrats on the new gear. Nice! I'm still a Nikon DX shooter but I hope the following may be a bit of help: I'd suggest only you can decide whether you should go with macro or wide-angle to start with. You know what types of subject you are likely to see on your dives and what you enjoy photographing. Hard to say which is "easier" to start with. As far as compact size goes, maybe macro is a little more compact if you are going to use a large domeport for wide-angle (see below). More generally, I always reckon that there are more opportunities to shoot macro as you don't need reasonable viz. A couple of other thoughts: - mirrorless v DSLR aside, the big difference between DX and FF is the issue of wide-angle lenses. I'm sure you've read here that housing a wide-angle on FF is more complicated and costly than on DX. Maybe you were a Tokina 10-17 shooter (like me) on DX. But that won't work now - on FF or a Sony. If you don't go the wet lens route, (eg the Nauticam ones) you will likely need a big domeport (usually a 230) to house a wide-angle lens and produce reasonable corners. - macro: if you've been shooting a macro lens on a DX sensor you will have seen that a 60mm macro lens performs on DX like a 90mm; and a 105mm like a 150mm. So the DX gets you closer and with DX you get greater depth of field. Moving to a FF the depth of field reduces quite considerably for macro and you wo';t get the reach that you had with DX. If you are used to using a 60mm on DX, I'd suggest you need to go for a 105mm length lens on FF. Whatever you choose, I hope you have fun with it!

... and as we all know, colour counts in your choice of scuba gear - whatever PADI quizzes might say.

Yikes! Some seriously unhappy customers.....

I'd guess that a firmware update can't "destroy" a transmitter. I bet though it can most certainly stuff it up to make it unusable until the fault is corrected through a further firmware update..... Really annoying for Jim and others. ARGGGH. Good though that you got away with it, Massimo! [Last week I lost completely the mobile signal on my iPhone as a result of a firmware update by the carrier. 4 days of ripping my hair out and cursing all and sundry: Apple, O2..... It needed a new eSIM to fix it]

Sounds like the battery has failed. Or will GoPros work without a battery?

Thank you, Klaus.

Thanks, Chris. Yep, can see the need to build in some Flextime in Sorong. Not a problem. We don’t yet have the whole boat (but we do for this year’s Red Sea trip!)

Couldn’t agree more on the “only buy them once”. I’ve had my ULCS arms and clamps 24 years and they’re still as good as new.

Many thanks, Socrates!

For folks who are new to Waterpixels or, more importantly maybe, underwater photography more generally, would anyone like to have a crack at explaining the difference (other than the obvious one!) between front and rear curtain sync? The pros and cons? The why bothers? It'd make for an interesting read and perhaps shine some light on a slightly obscure avenue.

Hi CHanly Great to have you with us. We hope you really enjoy Waterpixels. A warm welcome!

I wonder if ULCS Ken has any thoughts on this issue? @UltralightCameraSolutions

Good luck with it, Tess. I think that'd be quite some interest in what you discover and choose. If you have the time, do post a read out. I really think "feel" is important in the choice.

Hey Jim! Great to have you with us. Welcome to Waterpixels. Lots of videoistas here so you're in good company. Best wishes

Many thanks, Chris!

Many thanks, Giancarlo. That’s very helpful.

Great to have you with us, RJF. Welcome!

Yeah, sounds wise, Massimo. Even then I'd check!

Folks I'd welcome views and experiences, please, on flying into Kaimana to join a liveaboard trip which sails from there - and ends up in Sorong. I'm running a trip using Emperor Divers there next year. I'm guessing Garuda via Jakarta but any Tips, Tricks, Does and Don'ts would be most welcome. Thanks!

If at all possible, just check it out with whatever lens(es) and camera body you plan to use. I found with Nikon cameras/lenses and the Kenkos, that with some combinations there is no autofocus or aperture control. What would work, for example on a D500 would not work on a Z6/Z9; similarly what might work with a Tokina lens would not work with a Nikkor. I ended up needing two slightly different model 1.4TC Kenkos to use with a D500, Z6/Z9, the Tokina 10-17 and the Nikkor 8-15.

Just found this: https://community.adobe.com/t5/lightroom-classic-bugs/p-14-3-sonoma-wb-picker-loupe-tool-is-stuck-after-first-click/idi-p/14378458 Seems to be a known issue. I have posted about it though on LR website.

Doesn't that make a pleasant and unusual change! If we could now get US-style baggage allowance on flights.....