TimG

😰😱🤢☠️

Hi Robert! A warm welcome to Waterpixels. We hope you really enjoy this forum.

Fit a clock into the lens opening….

Welcome Mcgowman! Great to have you with us. Yep, you’ll see lots of familiar names. We hope you like the new forum.

Some super tips, guys. Keep them coming!

Really sorry, Toque, but, yeah, I’m with Chris and Chip. Dry your tears, claim the insurance if you can…. and start again. You can probably get away with a housing rebuild (not cheap) but the camera body is an amusing story in a few years time. Camera lenses with built-in electronics are equally toast. Argh

Folks Thanks to members who drew a potential issue to our attention, we’ve weeded out a scammer who was operating on the site suggesting possible equipment sale possibilities. Thanks guys! We try very hard to weed out the dodgy and malign. But there are some seriously devious folks out there. So please, if a deal sounds dodgy, let us know. We will do what we can to look into it. Please be very wary of offers of equipment away from the forum from people who are low contributing members. If you’re responding to a Classified forum advertisement, have a good look at the bona fides of the person offering. If they are a long-term member with lots of posts, then that is a lot safer than someone who has just joined and immediately lists equipment for sale. Please be wary. We don’t want members getting caught out. If you’re not sure, ask us and we’ll do what we can. But bear in mind we can’t be infallible! From my own experience over many years, lots of sales between members have been high successful for all parties. Let’s keep it that way!

In all the years I’ve been doing underwater photography, I don’t think I’ve ever given thought to the colour temperature of my strobes: Nikonos, then Inons and now Retras. I’m not sure what that says about me or my images!

Good to have you with us,Toque. Welcome!

But is having "only" a 20-24MP camera body truly an issue? Does it prevent you from doing something or producing a desired output?

Yep, incredible.

Hi TeamHoover. Welcome to Waterpixels. We hope you really enjoy the forum and find it useful!

Two chances? Fat and No??

Nice. Pity he didn't add "have a nice day".

I've always thought that going with the two identical camera bodies was a good idea. As you say, Caollla, a backup body but also one for topside shooting when one of them is in the housing. Same lenses, same features, same controls. I did this for Nikon D100, D200, D300... and D800. I must admit though I havn't this time around with the D500. I wanted to go to the Z, mirrorless series for topside and havn't made that jump for underwater - and doubt I will.

Yeah, disgraceful if it is indeed a Sony firmware update that has damaged the system - and they take no responsibility for it.

Sorry, one thing I forgot to mention: HSS needs a HSS-capable trigger to initiate the strobes and communicate with the camera. I use the UWT one to talk between a D500 and the Retras and fit in my Subal housing. So the sync cable goes from the camera's hot shoe to the UWT board which, on initiation, fires LEDs in the bulkheads. That LED flash runs down the fibre initiating the Retras. A dial on the strobes can be set on Manual, TTL or HSS depending on what you want to do - all of which can be changed underwater. It perhaps sounds complicated but it's not. All pretty simple. Like Chip, I tend to keep my system for a good few years. So if you are setting out and plan to go with a fairly sophisticated system, it's worth factoring in HSS from the get-go rather than spending a good chunk of cash on a system without the capability and then realising you want it!

High Speed Sync. Think of those situations where you are shooting into the light but want the strobes to light the subject in the foreground. So you set the shutter at a high speed (because of the ambient light) but also need the strobes to sync at speeds above those of the camera's sync speed. So with HSS you can shoot at, say, 1/2000 of s sec and still get the strobes to fire in sync. I don't think you'd use this very often for macro but I find it very useful for wide-angle shooting where, for example, you want the sunburst. Here's an example - not a great pic but it gives you the idea. This was shot at 1/320 of a second. The Retras are superb for this. As Chip says, pricey, but they are really good.

That's a good point. The wide-angle problem is pretty much solved by using a fisheye lens. It works with a small dome which, in turn, makes for easier travel, it's not so expensive (well, ok, an 8-15 isn't cheap!) - and the corners are good. I know some folks don't like the look of an FE but it solves so many FF wide-angle issues and it's a rare underwater image where the FE effect is really noticeable and distorting.

Hi scuba_jc Congrats on the new gear. Nice! I'm still a Nikon DX shooter but I hope the following may be a bit of help: I'd suggest only you can decide whether you should go with macro or wide-angle to start with. You know what types of subject you are likely to see on your dives and what you enjoy photographing. Hard to say which is "easier" to start with. As far as compact size goes, maybe macro is a little more compact if you are going to use a large domeport for wide-angle (see below). More generally, I always reckon that there are more opportunities to shoot macro as you don't need reasonable viz. A couple of other thoughts: - mirrorless v DSLR aside, the big difference between DX and FF is the issue of wide-angle lenses. I'm sure you've read here that housing a wide-angle on FF is more complicated and costly than on DX. Maybe you were a Tokina 10-17 shooter (like me) on DX. But that won't work now - on FF or a Sony. If you don't go the wet lens route, (eg the Nauticam ones) you will likely need a big domeport (usually a 230) to house a wide-angle lens and produce reasonable corners. - macro: if you've been shooting a macro lens on a DX sensor you will have seen that a 60mm macro lens performs on DX like a 90mm; and a 105mm like a 150mm. So the DX gets you closer and with DX you get greater depth of field. Moving to a FF the depth of field reduces quite considerably for macro and you wo';t get the reach that you had with DX. If you are used to using a 60mm on DX, I'd suggest you need to go for a 105mm length lens on FF. Whatever you choose, I hope you have fun with it!

... and as we all know, colour counts in your choice of scuba gear - whatever PADI quizzes might say.

Yikes! Some seriously unhappy customers.....

I'd guess that a firmware update can't "destroy" a transmitter. I bet though it can most certainly stuff it up to make it unusable until the fault is corrected through a further firmware update..... Really annoying for Jim and others. ARGGGH. Good though that you got away with it, Massimo! [Last week I lost completely the mobile signal on my iPhone as a result of a firmware update by the carrier. 4 days of ripping my hair out and cursing all and sundry: Apple, O2..... It needed a new eSIM to fix it]

Sounds like the battery has failed. Or will GoPros work without a battery?

Thank you, Klaus.