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TimG

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Everything posted by TimG

  1. Too late for Robert, but I really like the Loupedeck too. I’ve got the CT model. The fine tuning capability and fast processing it brings is brilliant. More useful than a Wacom, I find.
  2. Following a bit of reorganisation, we now have two cabins available each of which can accommodate two people; plus one berth in a shared cabin for a woman. PM me if you’d like more details.
  3. Thanks! They do have a nice glass of red…..
  4. It should indeed, Mike. It’s a great bunch of people too.. … hey, here’s a thought. Why not treat Mrs P? Think just how many brownie points you’d earn? Lots of new gear off the back of that!
  5. For the last few years I’ve organised a dive trip for Ocean Explorers in Sint Maarten. We’ve been to Saba, Turks and Caicos and the southern Red Sea trip. These trips have no connection with Waterpixels and all bookings and payments are made directly to a registered travel agent. I just act as the organiser/coordinator. Last year’s trip was so successful that we decided this year will be a bit of a repeat. So Emperor Divers liveaboard, Seven Seas, again in the southern Red Seas on the Southern Solitude itinerary. We have the whole boat. Sadly two people have had to drop out for family reasons and we have 2 spaces available: one for a man, one for a woman both in shared Lower Berths. The standard on the Seven Seas is very high and this should prove to be an excellent trip. It starts from Port Ghalib on 17 October for 7 nights. Previous trips have brought together a terrific group of people from all over: Dutch, Brazilian, American, French, British… and we have had a great time. Many have been on each trip. If you’re interested, drop me a PM with an email or WhatsApp contact and I’ll send you the full information sheet. Cost is around USD1870.
  6. Hey tank! Welcome aboard. Great to have you with us. We hope you really enjoy the forum.
  7. I was able to access it about an hour ago. Very little traffic going on.
  8. Great to have you with us! A warm welcome to Waterpixels. I’m sure there’s lots of names you’ll recognise. (love the username!)
  9. I don't know about the Nauticam, but on the Subal, if you moisten a finger and put it across the leak alarm prongs: BAAAH, BAAAH, BAAAH..... I'd imagine the Nauticam would be similar. Good news on the rest!
  10. YOLO? That's a new one on me. And we don't have it on the abbreviation thread...... We've got GAS (Gear Acquisition Syndrome) but YOLO????
  11. Well done, Sergio! For me this is the impact of shooting at shallower depths and the colouration of the water when ambient light impacts on it. At depth you can get darker, richer blues. At shallower depths, not so much.
  12. Argh! Take your time and work steadily....... As the guys say, use whatever you can find to blow out any water, eg, air blower, hair dryer. - Remove any batteries - Wipe the inside of the housing as much as you can with a cloth dampened with fresh water. - The ship will most likely have contact cleaner on board. Spray some on a clean cloth a wipe any electrical contacts in the housing. Check any batteries for corrosion and replace if necessary. - Check the o-ring for tiny splits - Once you've done all that, and the housing is dry, take it for a dive without a camera and check there is no further leak. Fingers crossed. Hard to say what might have caused it. Hopefully just water when you opened the housing. But "a very ting amount" doesn't sound like water drops.....
  13. It's really odd, Sergio,. I uploaded files yesterday without a problem. Can you reduce the file size further and have another go? I don't think a large file is really necessary for us to see what's going on.
  14. Sounds like someone almost did you a favour! Enjoy those Retras!
  15. Hey Sergio We did have some server problems earlier but we think they have been sorted and you should have no problem uploading images now. Tim
  16. LOL!!! Good luck with the servicing. It'd be interesting to know how you get on with it.
  17. Hey! About time you joined us! Welcome. Good to have you with us.
  18. Thanks! Thats the Kenko 1.4 DGX. Yep, the order would be camera, adapter, TC then Tokina. And, yes, you’ll need an extension to create sufficient space between the port and the housing. I’m sure someone will chip in with the required length.
  19. I know the feeling! If you are using the 10-17 on its own the images tend to be broad reef/wreck shots with a wide panorama. Add the TC and the shots become narrower. Get the subject immediately in front of the lens/dome so it fills, say, 1/3rd of the screen. This will give a real close-up of the subject but because of the wider-angle will show a lot of the background too. Here's an example
  20. Yeah, by underwater equipment standards, it's a fairly inexpensive way of creating greater capability and variety.
  21. Hi Sergio! Could you post an example? First thought is that the ambient sunlight in shallower water overpowered the strobes output. In deeper water with less ambient light, the strobes would illuminate your subject and produce the sort of colours you were expecting. However in stronger ambient light the strobes will not be as effective and other colours will be evident dictated by the effect of sunlight and not strobes.
  22. Adding the TC gives you effectively a 14-25mm lens whilst retaining the ultra close-focusing of the Tokina. This makes it easier to fill the screen with middle size subjects (eg typical reef fish) while showing them in their habitat. This is Close Focus Wide-Angle (CFWA). This combination produces a very different look to the usual Tokina 10-17 image.
  23. A wide-angle image of a reef, a wreck, a school of fish or pelagic can look pretty spectacular. Adding a diver is even better for that Telling-A-Story type shot The diver often gives an idea of scale, usually confirms the scene is underwater, and makes the picture one to which non-divers can generally relate. The problem can often be, however, “the diver”. Viewed dispassionately, the diver may sometimes actually detract from the image. Legs and fins splayed all over the place, dangling gear, eyes closed, bubbles over the diver’s face, weird positions…. How to get over this? The more underwater photographers develop their skills, the more they realise that time, planning and effort are rewarded with better results. Of course you can go out, shoot away and get lucky. We’ve all been there. But to create a high quality image regularly takes patience and effort. So, the diver in the shot? Same approach: patience and effort. For starters, getting the right diver as a model: comfortable in the water, excellent buoyancy skills, patient, calm…. unflappable, willing to persevere. Sad to say, but generally good-looking and reasonable physique might be considerations too. Then, unless you are shooting radical chic or the 1960s look (love those oval masks!), wetsuits that don’t have holes, gear that looks like it was probably bought in the 21st century. Brief the diver: how you plan to shoot, the type of image you are hoping to achieve and against what background. It helps, of course, if you have dived the site before. Even better if the model has too. Do you want the model as background: just helping put the scene into a context? Perhaps in the background exploring the wreck/reef, pointing a torch to highlight a feature? Or a more close-up portrait-type shot? Agree some basic signals: up, down, left, right, blow bubbles with long, slow exhales, smile (honestly!), repeat, repeat again, stop, slow, go backwards, get close, get further away. I’m sure you can think of others. My partner is excellent at various other signals with which she likes to respond. These normally involve fingers - often a raised middle finger. And so to the water. Buddy check of course. Ripping currents and serious drop-off walls are reasons for extra caution. The safety of you and the model are paramount. So if either of you are struggling or uncomfortable, there’s always another time, another place and another dive. But assuming all is well, find the type of location that you have agreed and let the fun begin. Indicate to your model how you’d like them positioned against the backdrop; the direction of travel; carrying a torch which is switched on; and what point do you want them to stop or is it a swim-by? Which way do you want them to look - at the camera (hmmm, maybe not), at the reef. Maybe though you want to be able to see their eyes which might require some vague contortionist movement. Slow exhaled bubbles add drama and context. No doubt it will take several attempts. Fins in horrible positions, eyes closed, bubbles in front of the mask, pesky fish in front of the eyes, wrong angle…. (see why patience and perseverance come in?). So back off the reef or wreck a little, review what you have with your model, give them a welcome breather - and, probably, do over again. And again. And, probably again. When you get the images home and on screen, you will see just how many are not quuuuuite right. But with luck and effort, you should come home with some images that work. And, fingers crossed, that your model likes too - especially if you want to use their services again. Do give them copies. If it’s been an especially successful or challenging day why not print and frame a copy of a significant image as a thank you? If you’d like to try and sell the images, ask the model if they’d sign a model release which then makes commercial sales feasible. Adding a model to an underwater image helps tell the story of what you are seeing. But it needs careful planning, execution, patience and lots of signals. Even if they are a single middle finger. Top Tips for models: breathe with a slightly tilted head so bubbles move away from the mask straightish legs with one leg slightly bend at the knee. This creates length and elegance. tuck away gear so nothing is dangling big logos/brand names home create intellectual property issues in trying to sell the images de-fog mask exhale slowly - a long bubble stream looks good tuck away long hair to avoid weird ocean-created hair arrangements or hair in front of of the mask

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