TimG

Hey tank! Welcome aboard. Great to have you with us. We hope you really enjoy the forum. 

I was able to access it about an hour ago. Very little traffic going on. 

A real pleasure! 😃

Great to have you with us! A warm welcome to Waterpixels. I’m sure there’s lots of names you’ll recognise. 
 

(love the username!)

3 minutes ago, shelbyrose said:

Out of curiosity, does anyone know how reliable the nauticam leak detector is? 

I don't know about the Nauticam, but on the Subal, if you moisten a finger and put it across the leak alarm prongs: BAAAH, BAAAH, BAAAH.....   I'd imagine the Nauticam would be similar.

Good news on the rest!

YOLO? That's a new one on me. And we don't have it on the abbreviation thread......

We've got GAS (Gear Acquisition Syndrome) but YOLO????

Well done, Sergio!

For me this is the impact of shooting at shallower depths and the colouration of the water when ambient light impacts on it. At depth you can get darker, richer blues. At shallower depths, not so much.

Argh!

Take your time and work steadily.......

As the guys say, use whatever you can find to blow out any water, eg, air blower, hair dryer.

- Remove any batteries

- Wipe the inside of the housing as much as you can with a cloth dampened with fresh water.

- The ship will most likely have contact cleaner on board. Spray some on a clean cloth a wipe any electrical contacts in the housing. Check any batteries for corrosion and replace if necessary.

- Check the o-ring for tiny splits

- Once you've done all that, and the housing is dry, take it for a dive without a camera and check there is no further leak.

Fingers crossed.

Hard to say what might have caused it. Hopefully just water when you opened the housing. But "a very ting amount" doesn't sound like water drops.....

It's really odd, Sergio,. I uploaded files yesterday without a problem.

Can you reduce the file size further and have another go? I don't think a large file is really necessary for us to see what's going on. 

1 hour ago, fruehaufsteher2 said:

It is not possible to find out what the error really was because the port has disappeared with the thieves. But I wouldn't buy it again (I ordered Retras today instead)

Sounds like someone almost did you a favour! Enjoy those Retras!

Hey Sergio

We did have some server problems earlier but we think they have been sorted and you should have no problem uploading images now.

Tim

LOL!!! Good luck with the servicing.

It'd be interesting to know how you get on with it.

Hey! About time you joined us! Welcome. Good to have you with us. 

1 hour ago, Lewis88 said:

 

Excellent picture! Which TC are you using? Can I get away with the base kenko teleplus hd dgx?

 

I'm assuming I'd put the TC between my Sigma MC-11 adapter and my Tokina, and then use an N85 extension to push the whole N120 section of the setup further out to preserve my zoom gear functionality.

Thanks!

Thats the Kenko 1.4 DGX. 

Yep, the order would be camera, adapter, TC then Tokina.

And, yes, you’ll need an extension to create sufficient space between the port and the housing. I’m sure someone will chip in with the required length. 

I know the feeling!

If you are using the 10-17 on its own the image stand to be broad reef/werck shots with a wide panorama.

Add the TC and the shots become narrower. Get the subject immediately in front of the lens/dome so it fills, say, 1/3rd of the screen. This will give a real close-up of the subject but because of the wider-angle will show a lot of the background too. 

Here's an example

1 hour ago, Lewis88 said:

Still might be worth pricing out an N85 20mm extension and a TC. 

Yeah, by underwater equipment standards, it's a fairly inexpensive way of creating greater capability and variety.

Hi Sergio!

Could you post an example?
 

First thought is that the ambient sunlight in shallower water overpowered the strobes output.
 

In deeper water with less ambient light, the strobes would illuminate your subject and produce the sort of colours you were expecting. However in stronger ambient light the strobes will not be as effective and other colours will be evident dictated by the effect of sunlight and not strobes. 

6 minutes ago, Lewis88 said:

 

What do you gain from the TC on the Tokina? 

 

It's my go to lens on my a6100 Nauticam setup, but wondering if I should consider adding a TC and another port extension?

Adding the TC gives you effectively a 14-25mm lens whilst retaining the ultra close-focusing of the Tokina.
 

This makes it easier to fill the screen with middle size subjects (eg typical reef fish) while showing them in their habitat. This is Close Focus Wide-Angle (CFWA). This combination produces a very different look to the usual Tokina 10-17 image. 

Yep, my experience has been that vignetting is the only issue. Diopters shouldn't make any difference.

Test out what you have and you'll see if there is an issue immediately.  As you say, if there's then a problem, get the credit card out.... 😝

Hey Hans

I've switched between a 105mm and 60mm using the same port with an extension ring (EXR) to provide the extra length required by the 105mm. 

My experience is that the only issue to look out for is vignetting if the EXR is too long. Other than that, no issues. No optical impact. 

Chris, there was a post a few days ago about Nikonos servicing. Did you see that?

5 hours ago, Chris Ross said:

The advantage of the fisheye over the other options is it will work in a 4"dome, making CFWA easier and can Replace about 2 1/2 lenses.  You can add a 1.4x to it and you have a complete coverage for everything bar macro work in one very small package and it very light for travel and manoeuvrable in the water.

 

This is my standard WA travel package: the Tokina 10-17, a TC1.4, 4"/100mm dome and a 20mm extension ring to handle the TC. As Chris says, neat, travel-friendly and very versatile. Image quality is excellent without the TC and very good with it.

1 hour ago, Andrej Oblak said:

 

I'd use it to:

• Widen the beam
• Soften the light
• Reduce hotspots
• Change color of the light

Yeah, I'm with Andrej: looks to me that the diffusers soften and widen the beam. Without the diffuser there is very sharp edges with a distinct hot spot. Yes, there is a loss of power but the quality of light looks better, to me, with the diffusers.

46 minutes ago, christophe chellapermal said:

thx guys will keep trying 🙂

 

 

Best of luck! Do keep us posted. 

2 hours ago, Phil Rudin said:

It kinda makes you think some folks here should spend more time in the water and less time pixel peeping and posting.

 Good point, well made!