2nd Strobe - but which one?

[Apneagraph]

Hey guys,

I‘m actually using a single strobe setup and are looking for a 2nd strobe to complete my setup. 
 

Actually I use 1x Inon S220 together with my RX100 va. 
 

Now I‘m pending wether I go for a second S220 or getting a used Z330, budget wise both options are kinda similar, may the S220 is slightly cheaper (but therefore new). 
 

My focus is still at WA, therefore I thought getting a more powerfull 2nd strobe could be worth, but I have no experience if it works via STTL and looks harmonic in the end. 
 

Also I‘m unsure if the more in power is worth the weight I have to carry around while travelling nor if it makes a hudge difference by using it while freediving. 
 

Any suggestions?

 

Thanks!

[ChipBPhoto]

1 hour ago, Apneagraph said:

Now I‘m pending wether I go for a second S220 or getting a used Z330, budget wise both options are kinda similar, may the S220 is slightly cheaper (but therefore new). 

Hi @Apneagraph,

 

That’s a good question.  The S220 has proven to be a quite dependable upgrade from the previous S2000.  The beam is noticeably wider which I see as a big plus.  I see two ways to look at it….

 

 - Adding a Z-330 will provide a bit wider light pattern and a bit more power.  (More so the wider pattern)  This could be interesting if you use the 2 strobes as a key light and fill light strategy. This yields a more artistic appearance.  

 - Adding a 2nd S220 would still allow the key light/fill light strategy, but would also provide a more even, matched lighting for wider scenes.  The smaller size is an attractive plus.  Saving a few dollars for a new product vs. pre-owned is nice as well.

 

There will be a variety of opinions shared, but I personally prefer having the option of an even light pattern.  As such, I personally would purchase a 2nd S220.  
 

Good luck!  Let us know what you decide.

chip

 

[jlaity]

Some of the Inon strobes have reversed power knobs and different power switches. 220, 240, 330 all had subtle changes. I’d go with a matched set to avoid confusion when task loaded underwater. 

[Apneagraph]

Thanks for your thoughts @ChipBPhoto @jlaity.

 

It's a really tough decision for me, my mind tells me to buy a 2nd S220 for obvious reasons like already mentioned (smaller, lighter, easier to travel therefore and a even light pattern.

But on the other hand there's a small devil that asks me all the time: shouldn't you go for the bigger one, because more power and more beam angle is more and more is better? 😄

 

In case I would use 1x S220 & 1x Z330 - would the power output by using S-TTL be equal (or kinda equal) of both strobes?

Or would it be like (e.g.) 60% power S220 and 60% power Z330 - but ofc, 60% of Z330 would be more power as 60% of the S220?

 

In my thoughts it should be as first mentioned and to get an even light pattern I would have to use both strobes manually (or at least one of it)?

Since then the decision towards S220 could be easier, since adjusting strobes while freediving is time I rather would use (at least most of the time) for other things like composition e.g. e.g. 🙂 (if there's no devil).

 

But please correct me if I'm wrong!

 

Edited October 10 by Apneagraph

[jlaity]

I recently upgraded from 240 to 330 and it's a big power difference. I shot the Z220 then Z240 for years so I had to adjust to the higher power of the Z330. For a while I had one Z220 and one Z240 and that was confusing as hell. The power switch was reversed and I couldn't keep straight which was clockwise versus counterclockwise to change power without looking.

 

Also the power switch was all the way to the right for manual on one, but on the other it was MAX POWER and the power knob does nothing. Why why WHY does this setting exist, Inon? I've had the switch bumped underwater on kelp or whatever and I can't figure out why my photos are so overexposed. Then of course they changed the switches again for the Z330. 

 

So speaking from personal experience, having two different Inon strobes underwater is confusing AF. 

[Dave_Hicks]

1 hour ago, jlaity said:

I recently upgraded from 240 to 330 and it's a big power difference. I shot the Z220 then Z240 for years so I had to adjust to the higher power of the Z330. For a while I had one Z220 and one Z240 and that was confusing as hell. The power switch was reversed and I couldn't keep straight which was clockwise versus counterclockwise to change power without looking.

 

Also the power switch was all the way to the right for manual on one, but on the other it was MAX POWER and the power knob does nothing. Why why WHY does this setting exist, Inon? I've had the switch bumped underwater on kelp or whatever and I can't figure out why my photos are so overexposed. Then of course they changed the switches again for the Z330. 

 

So speaking from personal experience, having two different Inon strobes underwater is confusing AF. 

Inon controls have some design issues to be sure.

 

I made this thing to address the major issues on the Inon 330 strobe:

 

Inon 330 UW Strobe - Button Lock by AwkwardSwine - Thingiverse

 

This Thing is a solution to a common problem experienced with the Inon 330 Underwater Strobe. The Inon 330 has a pre-flash control button that must be pushed down and turned to lock when used on cameras that down use preflash. (most DSLR/Mirrorless cameras) The button has a tendency to pop up if accidentally bumped, which can easily occur when adjusting the strobe power (eV) knob. Another issue with the 330 can occur if you inadvertently bump the Power/Mode knob from its usual Manual position to the Full mode. Both of these problems will spoil your photos.

The Button Lock think aims to resolve both of these problems in an unobtrusive manner. A cylinder protects the Pre-flash button from being altered. A spring arm adds some resistance to the Power/Mode switch when it is in the Manual mode. The object is held down by the cap to the electrical sync connector.

[jlaity]

Yes, that happened to me on my last trip. “Something is wrong, one strobe is much weaker than the other.” I think I did several dives before someone pointed out the problem. 

[Chris Ross]

If you are using a RX-100, you would be shooting wider apertures about f5.6 max so your strobes have an easier time of it.  F5.6 on a 1" sensor has equivalent depth of field to about f16 on full frame .  Stopping down further just sends you into diffraction.  If it were me I'd get a second S-220.