This has attracted a lot of interest over the years, with some useful info that is difficult to find.

Can this thread be copied over and pinned if there is interest? The manuals are really not available anywhere. I got them from Mike Megleski.

https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/54607-do-15mms-need-servicing/&tab=comments#comment-399921

Many threads such as this can be found on the web archive, here is the thread as archived:

https://web.archive.org/web/20230127185242/https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/54607-do-15mms-need-servicing/&tab=comments#comment-399921

We do need to be careful copying threads as I believe we need the permission of each contributor to copy it, but we are free to link to it and the archive is likely to be more permanent.

11 minutes ago, Chris Ross said:

Many threads such as this can be found on the web archive, here is the thread as archived:

https://web.archive.org/web/20230127185242/https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/54607-do-15mms-need-servicing/&tab=comments#comment-399921

We do need to be careful copying threads as I believe we need the permission of each contributor to copy it, but we are free to link to it and the archive is likely to be more permanent.

I do see the service manual links don't work as the archive didn't download them.  Perhaps you could link them or add them to this thread?

If we get the service manuals we could save them in the How-to DIY Tutorial section

Hey guys

These are my "original" PDF's... Hopefully they transfer properly.

Also apologies, I spelled Mike Mesgleski's name incorrectly the first time

 

Ian

nikonos 15mm service manual.pdf

I bought a beater 15mm Nikonos UW to see how it ticks.

 

It is elegant in its simplicity compared to modern lenses. To work on it you need a small philips, small flat blade screwdriver, and an adjustable lens spanner with points. This is a specialty item, and available on Amazon. Don't try and remove the front glass without the proper tool... you will fail.

 

Really only the control shaft "o" rings need to be replaced. These can be sourced on the internet from a fellow in France for a few dollars. The three big "o"rings behind the front glass and the acrylic window are not really "o" rings but compression gaskets.

 

In order to replace the shaft "o"rings you need to strip the lens down to its underwear. That is, completely disassemble the lens mechanically. This is not hard, but take photos and make notes as you go.

 

Be carefull not to damage the large gasket "o"rings, you will have to reuse them. THEY ARE NOT AVAILABLE ANYWHERE.

 

Some penetrating oil on the retaining ring (with the engraved writing) for the front glass is wise, but not much. Same for the tiny screws holding the shaft knobs on. These can be a deal breaker if corroded on. You may be able to sacrifice a 28mm lens for its knobs and screws.

 

Also be really careful removing the six spring loaded screws at the back. If you strip these you wreck the aluminum body of the lens. Same goes for the six philips screws that hold the front lens element /sunshade to the body. Corrosion can be a problem with these screws.

 

Remove the 2 control knobs with six TINY set screws. These may have a coat of laquer over the heads. They are super delicate.

 

Remove the front glass retainer first. Don't ding the glass.. you can't replace this.

 

Remove the front half (Sunshade) with the six philips screws. These are 2mm x 4mm. I replace these with SS socket head cap screws which are available at a bolt supply house, likely special order.

 

Remove the six rear spring loaded screws with a small flat screwdriver. These are delicate.

 

Remove the front lens element inside the dome with a lens spanner. That will allow the main optical body to slide out the back. I believe the knobs must be set at f/2.8 and infinity for the control tabs to line up and fall out. I recommend vinyl gloves when handling the optics to keep grease off them.

 

Dismantle the inner mechanics completely down to the back wall of the housing. Work slowly and photograph or make notes of this. When you get to the back wall look out for a tiny spring and ball that sits in a recess and provides the click for the aperture scale.

 

Push the control shafts back into the housing and remove the 'O'rings from the outer seat. Note which shaft goes where, as they are different lengths.

 

Clean everything of old grease. I used alcohol wipes to do this but DON'T LET ALCOHOL TOUCH THE ACRYLIC WINDOW. It will wreck it.

 

Reassemble: Use Nikonos grease on the new shaft "o"rings. The shaft is passed through the housing and "o" ring and the knob replaced pushing the gear from the inside. This is why you cant just replace the "o"ring from the outside.

 

I use a tiny coating of white lithium bicycle grease ( I like Campagnolo) to lubricate the mechanicals, but only a trace.

 

Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Take your time and it is actually fun.

 

Use a thin layer of Nikonos grease on the "o" ring gaskets, just until they are shiny.

 

Any locktite inside can be replaced with a dab of nail polish or touch up lacquer.

 

Make sure you get the right knob on the right shaft, or you'll be tearing it apart again (I did).

 

Use a small drop of laquer on the screw heads of the shaft lockscrews and note the orientation of the screws relative to the flats on the shaft. The screw positioning is assymetrical.

 

When you replace the six screws that hold the front element/sun shade, watch the orientation of the shade. It goes with the sun shade projections at the 12 and 6 oclock position.

 

Place the lens face down and preload the body with a bit of downward pressure as you tighten the six philips screws or the SS socket head capscrew replacements. This takes a bit of the load off the threads as this is a delicate area, and may have some corrosion already. Also I use a tiny bit of Lanocoat on all external threaded fasteners, as well as the six spring loaded screws in the back..

 

Anyway. That's my experience. No guarantees, but a fun way to spend a winter afternoon thinking about your next trip.

Wow, an open-heart surgery

11 hours ago, Davide DB said:

Wow, an open-heart surgery

Really. Scary stuff!

I wish I would need that service. The holy grail of the underwater lenses.

2 hours ago, atus said:

I wish I would need that service. The holy grail of the underwater lenses.

Just buy one for fun… they are super cheap. Before you know it you will have a canera system built around it!!!

 

Thats how we roll around here!

We should start a sweepstake to see at what part number on the schematic people get to and find it no longer fun.... 🤭

3 hours ago, TimG said:

We should start a sweepstake to see at what part number on the schematic people get to and find it no longer fun.... 🤭

Good one... As my neurosurgeon buddy says... "It's not Rocket Science"

19 hours ago, ianmarsh said:

Just buy one for fun… they are super cheap. Before you know it you will have a canera system built around it!!!

 

Thats how we roll around here!

I have been making a search in Ebay and I couldn't guess how cheap they really are. Before making a compulsory buying I have been looking for the possibilities to put it in an Aquatica Housing and the only adapter that I have found is for Nauticam housings... Does anybody knows how to adapt it to an Aquatica or Subal housing ?

6 hours ago, atus said:

I have been making a search in Ebay and I couldn't guess how cheap they really are. Before making a compulsory buying I have been looking for the possibilities to put it in an Aquatica Housing and the only adapter that I have found is for Nauticam housings... Does anybody knows how to adapt it to an Aquatica or Subal housing ?

Nauticam is your only option.... it is not possible to adapt an existing platform. The optical tolerances are much too fine, in the micron range.

It's also worth looking up Pawel Achtel's work with this lens. His application of the 15mm was used for filming some of the UW in Avatar: The Way of Water. Pawel is an amazing guy!

https://24x7.com.au/3deep/

14 minutes ago, ianmarsh said:

Nauticam is your only option.... it is not possible to adapt an existing platform. The optical tolerances are much too fine, in the micron range.

It's also worth looking up Pawel Achtel's work with this lens. His application of the 15mm was used for filming some of the UW in Avatar: The Way of Water. Pawel is an amazing guy!

https://24x7.com.au/3deep/

Also, check out Mike Veitch....http://mikeveitchblog.com/testing-mirrorless-cameras-in-lembeh-strait-part-1/

It's a pity. Too much money to spend if I have to change my rig to nauticam just for one lens. 

Thank you fr the links, really interesting.

3 minutes ago, atus said:

It's a pity. Too much money to spend if I have to change my rig to nauticam just for one lens. 

Thank you fr the links, really interesting.

Agree... it's a one trick pony, but a very sharp one. I just posted some images in the gallery... the one titled "Where's Waldo" is taken with the 15mm

Hello everyone, I see what i think is the extended back-end, original Nikonos 15mm repair manual above.

Does anyone happen to have the later N version of the lens repair manual they could share here or privately?

TIA!

I agree the PDF attached above looks to be for the Gen 1 of Nik 15.
If any of you are still looking for the newer one, there are two manuals on eBay for USD 45 BUT you'd need the vendor to share a page showing which model it's for as the listing doesn't say.
Search for "Nikkor 15mm UW Repair Manual").

Servicing Nikonos BODIES (Just In Case Someone Gets Nostalgic)
I have been scouring this forum for Nikonos posts as well as elsewhere and I will jot down some additional info. Sadly, only for the Nik V body, nothing on lenses, yet.

Someone "mapped" most of the body o-rings (they are pretty common. I think the 1.9 section size might be a japanese series, but still available). Also, it's almost a full tear down with great step by step pics. There's a downloadable cheat sheet, too. He has a write up on the IV on his site, too.

Also, a youtube video to show a bit of servicing of a Nik V body.

There's a Facebook forum for Nikonos and Nik Rs that seems to have some knowledgeable folks.

There's also a full Nikonos V Repair Manual on Scribd. You can get it for free under a 30 day trial with two free downloads but they still want your credit card number for a subscription. You could just give it to them and block it right after your two free downloads or set up a virtual card and delete it...

A note on o-ring sizing.
I can't guarentee that the ones in the first link are all correct.
What I would do and intend to do myself is to measure both the o-ring groove geometry as well as the old o-rings. That way, you can do some sanity checks as static o-rings are most often designed to have a compression of 20-30%.
So, by measuring the depth of a groove you can check it against the supposedly correct cross section of the o-ring and see if it makes sense. And then check the width of the groove, too to make sure there's enough free space for the ring to actually expand into.
It's pretty simple math once you start. But both Eriks and Trelleborg make good online calculators for this sort of thing - I have used them both a lot in the past.

But let's finish on an example. Without having my Nik V and calipers at hand, if that main rear door o-ring is 3mm in cross section, I would expect to see a groove depth of about 3.00 x 0.75 = 2.25mm for 25% compression. If the o-ring is stretched a fair bit, that thins it out and results in less compression. And then I'd like to see close to 4mm width for a 3mm o-ring to allow it free space to expand.
I would do this with all the grooves. And I will, just give me some time, haha. Will get back here with findings once we get there.

Edited 1 hour ago1 hr by GeckoSub