On 8/10/2024 at 12:36 AM, Fabian said:

Would be amazing if we could get something like this as well for other port sizes (e.g.140mm, 230mm) 😇

Agreed, if a hard cap for the wwl-1 was available too it would be great!

To add to this lovely collection:

I was recently looking for some 3d printed bayonet mounts for arms (real annoying Nauticam won't sell the ring alone so that one can just use the same mount with different arms), then remembered an old topic on an old site...

 

Design by Richard , know as @TheTrickster so all kudos go to him. Hopefully he does not mind me posting this 🙂

https://www.tinkercad.com/users/5kYZVSWuSzw-thetrickster

 

Lots of other pieces, like monitor hoods, lens caps, magic filter holder and other fun stuff.

Note that you will need a free Tinkercad account to see everything, otherwise nothing shows up.

 

Edited September 27, 20241 yr by makar0n

Any 3D printing leads for the following Nauticam zoom/focus gears for Sony lenses?

SE1650-PZ Zoom Gear

SE30-F focus Gear

cheers

ben
 

 

 

On 1/29/2024 at 4:53 PM, Architeuthis said:

I have printed out the snoot for Inon Z330 (small version) according to this file here and it works perfect: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4753831

 

This file and numerous other files for UW-photography can be found on this Webside here, type in e.g. "Z330" or "Zoom gear", but I cannot confirm that everything works (I printed just the snoot):  https://www.stlfinder.com/

 

Wolfgang

Hi Wolfgang,

 

Does the snoot screw firmly on your strobe?  I have bought custom made beam restrictors for my Inon Z330 strobes, but they are a bit short. To design new ones I could use the lower part of the snoot design.

 

 

Quote

7 hours ago, Floris Bennema said:

Hi Wolfgang,

 

Does the snoot screw firmly on your strobe?  I have bought custom made beam restrictors for my Inon Z330 strobes, but they are a bit short. To design new ones I could use the lower part of the snoot design.

 

 

 

 

I tried these and they screwed down tightly on my 330's, worked well.

For M43 shooters.  I designed a zoom gear for my Panasonic Lumix 14-42mm lens in a Nauticam housing. A nice lens with the WWL-1. At first it was a bit narrow to put on the lens but not problematic. I use it for two years now, it works really fine.  

 

Nauticam Zoom Gear for Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 II ASPH Mega O.I.S.  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5865363
 

Floris

Thanks for sharing!

Link added. Thanks

 

3 hours ago, Floris Bennema said:

For M43 shooters.  I designed a zoom gear for my Panasonic Lumix 14-42mm lens in a Nauticam housing. A nice lens with the WWL-1. At first it was a bit narrow to put on the lens but not problematic. I use it for two years now, it works really fine.  

 

Nauticam Zoom Gear for Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 II ASPH Mega O.I.S.  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5865363
 

Floris

 

Hello everyone,

At the end of November, after much deliberation, I bought a 3D printer and the first CAD drawings and projects for underwater photography are slowly emerging. Among other things, a holder for my flash arms for the IKEA Skadis pegboard.

Who knows, maybe someone else uses the Skadis parts and can also use my design. More parts will definitely follow.

The holder works with all common flash arms with a 1" ball. I also drew a version for arms with buoyancy, which I will definitely upload.

 

Underwater Strobe Arm Holder - IKEA Skadis

 

 

Greetings from Switzerland,
Tino

On 2/6/2024 at 10:25 AM, Gudge said:

I use a one part solution with a split.  It's easy to fit on the lens and can be tightened up to prevent any slippage in use by using the captive nut and screw.  Here's a couple of examples; N120 for Sigma 150 macro on the left and N100 for Sony 90. macro on the right:

 

@Gudge is it possible to get the file for the 90mm at all? Would love to check it out!

Don't suppose you'd have a zoom ring for the 28-60mm too? 😁

22 hours ago, Yorkie88 said:

is it possible to get the file for the 90mm at all? Would love to check it out!

Don't suppose you'd have a zoom ring for the 28-60mm too? 😁

PM sent.  I don't have a zoom ring for the 28-60.

Hello everyone,

Over the last few weeks I have created new parts for underwater photography for the 3D printer, perhaps one or two of you can use some of them. This time they are parts that are intended to bring some order to my equipment.

Plus an action cam mount for the long clamps from CarbonArm.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1097520#profileId-1092187

 
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1140747#profileId-1143074


https://makerworld.com/en/models/1079054#profileId-1070448
 

Greetings from Switzerland,
Tino

Very cool, Tino. Thanks for posting these.

Thanks @Tino Dietsche

 

Parts added to our DIYpedia 🙂

 

60mm to 70mm float arm adapter for Nauticam accessory:

.

 

I recently got a mount for a nauticam bayonet on a 70mm float arm. I didn't want to upgrade my float arms to the nauticam ones so I made a simple adapter to mount it on a generic 60mm float arm.

 

Printed in TPU, printing with 5 perimeters worked well for me.

 

Nauticam bayonet 70mm to 60mm float arm adapter.stl

Has anyone tried printing an extension ring for a Nauticam housing?
The 30mm extension ring I bought for €350 1 year ago, now costs €614!!!

23 minutes ago, JB_Cazajous said:

Has anyone tried printing an extension ring for a Nauticam housing?
The 30mm extension ring I bought for €350 1 year ago, now costs €614!!!

Wouah.... 

No and I can not recommanded to do such a thing..  I have some experience in 3d printing for underwater objects... 
It works... 1 time 10 time 100 times or more .. and it break or you have some water in ....

OK 614 € but what is the price of you camera etc ????

 

1 hour ago, JB_Cazajous said:

Has anyone tried printing an extension ring for a Nauticam housing?
The 30mm extension ring I bought for €350 1 year ago, now costs €614!!!

 

Yikes, that's pricey for basically a tube. I could do it, but currently I'm too busy to take on new projects. Maybe at some point in the future I'll consider offering them for the port mounts I already have the designs for. Developing good waterproof settings for a 3D printer can take a lot of work, but once you achieve that, designing/printing an extension tube is not too difficult. 

6 hours ago, Isaac Szabo said:

Developing good waterproof settings for a 3D printer can take a lot of work, but once you achieve that, designing/printing an extension tube is not too difficult. 

But you will need a good insurance... I didn't trust to 100% and in the time waterproof parts.
I made a lot on floating part llike arm) it work one year or more.... but at the end water is comming in.

22 minutes ago, CaolIla said:

But you will need a good insurance... I didn't trust to 100% and in the time waterproof parts.
I made a lot on floating part llike arm) it work one year or more.... but at the end water is comming in.

 

The techniques we use to make 3D printed parts are different, so I don't think your experience applies to my parts. I have used 3D printed ports myself for 5 years without failure. More recently I have been doing some pressure testing of 3D printed ports (since I now make them for other people). The deepest I have tested one is 137m/450ft, which was the limit of the pressure gauge I was using. I now have another gauge and will test deeper when I have some free time.

Edited March 25Mar 25 by Isaac Szabo

The design constraints of a float and port are very different. A float should minimize dry weight and maximize buoyancy. It is not protecting anything, so failure IS an option for a DIY project. A port is mission critical and more forgiving of dry weight. The walls are going to be much thicker than a float can possibly allow due to buoyancy requirements. 

 

That said, i made a couple of buoyancy floats that slip over a Nauticam 105mm (port 87) that have lasted over 8 month and about 100 dives. Printed in ABS, just four .6mm perimeters , acetone smoothed, and sealed with epoxy and a carbon fiber external wrap for durability. They are still going strong, but no more than 100 feet max depth so far.

1 hour ago, Dave_Hicks said:

That said, i made a couple of buoyancy floats that slip over a Nauticam 105mm (port 87) that have lasted over 8 month and about 100 dives. Printed in ABS, just four .6mm perimeters , acetone smoothed, and sealed with epoxy and a carbon fiber external wrap for durability. They are still going strong, but no more than 100 feet max depth so far.

Some of my float made over 200 dives and deeper some dives was deeper as 50 m (not far from 200 feet)

PLA, and the last in PETG  allways with epoxy some time with fiberglas cover and the last one with carbonfiber

My arms are not only float but are arms  with the problematic to have at the end a retra + one bigblue lamp

 

21 hours ago, CaolIla said:

OK 614 € but what is the price of you camera etc ????

 

Ok, that doesn't justify the fact that the price has doubled in just 1 year...

50 minutes ago, JB_Cazajous said:

Ok, that doesn't justify the fact that the price has doubled in just 1 year...

OK with you...   we have the same situation for the trip in Maldives 50% more  Where are the justification ? For sure not the salary of the crew 



 

Hello everyone,
I've put three more 3D printed parts online. Maybe some of you can use some of them.

 

Strobe arm holder for IKEA Skadis pegboard for some float-arms up to 8cm diameter

 

Transport case for two longer 18650 cells with length around 69mm maximal 19mm diameter

 

Tested with three different cells used in BigBlue dive lights (3000mAh 3.7V green - 2600mAh 3.7V blue and grey).

For the Nitecore NL1335HP used in the Backscatter MF-1, there is a separate version of the housing because the cells have a smaller radius. Battery Case - 2x NITECORE NL1835HP

Some other Cases on the web for 18650 are to short for cells like that one that are use as example for BigBlue Lights.

I hope these parts help someone.

 

Greetings from Switzerland,
Tino