Walt Stearns

I don't know about that Dave. I my case, it's more like the rhetorical question of which came first, the chicken or the egg? But I will affirm the current setup on my rebreather is a lot cheeper than the overall cost of my current camera rig.😉

Doing a search on what happened to 7Artisans new 10mm f/2.8 autofocus Fisheye Lens? The answer I got was that 7Artisans 10mm f/2.8 lens was not fisheye as it was first promised. Instead, it is an ultra-wide-angle rectilinear autofocus prime lens designed for APS-C mirrorless cameras (Sony E, Fujifilm X, and Nikon Z mounts) priced at around $199. Once again we have been snookered.

Cool! taking magic light tubes to a whole new level.

Dave, I know we have changed the subject, but it is nice to hear there are few KISS Rebreather fans out there. I have been diving KISS Rebreathers since 2005, starting with a KISS Sport and switching over to a KISS Classic in 2010, which I still use today.

Just took a look today (08/19/26) to see if there were any updates on 7Artisans new AF fisheye lens in Sony FE, Nikon Z and L-mount on both B&H and Adorama's websites to find neither had the lens even listed. Very strange.

Hi Igor, To answer question, the Canon EF 8-15 + Fringer II + Kenko 1.4 DGX should work in continuous autofocus and 3d tracking, same as the Sigma 15 with Canon EF mount that I have used on my Nikon Z8. I am pretty certain the Canon EF 15mm full frame fisheye will do the same as the autofocus motor is built in. Its Canon’s RF mount lenses for the mirrorless camera that cannot be used on Nikon Z bodies, as nobody has produced a RF to Z adapter. While the going price for a secondhand Nikon 8-15 is quite higher than the Canon EF version, remember that this lens requires Nikon’s F to Z lens adapter to work. As for the ports required, Nauticam’s port charts for Nikon DSLR camera can be applied the same way when using Nikon F mount lens via the F to Z adapter on Nikon Z mount cameras.

With the MFO-3, the field of view you see through your 100 or 105mm is altered to what you would see with a 50 to 60mm. In essence you have the best of both worlds for macro general macro work. Add a super macro diopter on a double flip holder, and there will be almost nothing you can't get.

Pentax did have a 15-28mm full frame fisheye before the appearance of the Tokina 10-17.

Here two things you can do to prevent this. 1. Don’t allow saltwater or freshwater where there is calcium present in the water to dry on the glass. If you can’t keep your housing in the rinse tank/bucket on the boat, wrap a wet towel around it. 2. After the dive(s) when it comes time to rinse/soak your gear in freshwater, be sure to dry off the glass with clean dry towel or cloth as soon as that done to prevent water spots from lingering. Even my face-mask gets this treatment I live in South Florida where our fresh water is loaded with calcium. If you allow them to dry in place they will leave micro deposits where they dry which are total bitch to remove afterward.

You can contact Saga Dive, as they can mill one for either a Seacam or Subal type 4 to Nauticam N120. They did Seacam to N120 for me last year.

That whole setup was sold back in January.

I have just started using a Nauticam MFO-3 mounted with a flip adapter with a Nikon Z8 and Nikon Z 105mm f/2.8 VR S Macro Lens and found that it worked surprisingly well. The best testament to just how well it performed was during two blackwater dives of West Palm Beach, FL. Blackwater photography, as some of you know can be in creditably challenging. For me, the greatest test came when we found a small paper nautilus on the second night. Although the little sucker never stop moving except to rest on one diver’s fingertip, I came away with more than a five dozen tack sharp images with just a handful of throwaways where the focus didn’t nail. More I shoot with this lens, the more I like.

As I have listed earlier, the 21700 Li-Ion rechargeable batteries that I am using for my two new Retra Maxi Strobes is comprised of six 3.6V model Nitecores. Four consist of the NL2160HP models which boasts a capacity of 6000mAh at 21.6Wh, whereas the 2 Nitecore NL2153 models feature 5300mAh with a 19.08 Wh rating. In addition to them, the 21700’s provided with both my Dive Rite CX2 light and Kraken Sports Hydra 1800+WSR focus light are also 3.6V 5000mAh models with 18Wh rating. All feature a continuous 20A to 25A discharge current specifically designed for high-drain devices like powerful flashlights and flash systems. Based on that and what others like Chris Ross, Dave Hicks, and Backscatter have sited to use with Backscatter HF-1 and Retra’s Maxi pretty much boils down to 20A 3.6V 5000mAh model 21700 with 18Wh rating. The only question from there is why would you want or need with 21700 with a lower amperage for a HF-1?

My collection of 21700 Li-Ion rechargeable batteries I am using for my two new Retra Maxi Strobes is comprised of six 3.6V model Nitecores. Four consist of the NL2160HP models which boasts a capacity of 6000mAh at 21.6Wh, whereas the 2 Nitecore NL2153 models feature 5300mAh with a 19.08 Wh rating. All feature a continuous 20A discharge current specifically designed for high-drain devices like powerful flashlights and flash systems.

That is very true TimG, provided you have the right credit score and willingness/funds to handle the membership fees. Most of my CC are made of metal, aluminum mostly, but not titanium. My income is not high enough to afford one yet.

Oh, the excess, excess baggage fees. I can detect the smell of a melting credit card all the way here.

Sea & Sea 77mm Internal Correction Lens has been Sold.