CaolIla

Done

I can only confirm that... It is much easier to take such picture

Retra Max II ? Oups the price :(

@flowdesign Thanks for your remark. Yes I know under water it is different. That is exactly the reason I want to optimize the light coming out of the strobe. My past experience wasn't like I imagined it... I want to have near 100% of the light output from the strobe coming out on the top. This time I'll make a "lowtec" snoot (I haven't enough time to do a complex solution.) I change the design of this snoot.. but at the end I want to seal it to have air in it. After the coming trip I'll make changes to adapt this solution and I'll make some dive with a modified version of it. (if i'm happy of the base design) It is allways the same problem not enough time to test before the trip. a point more is to have a light snoot for travelling I'm at the limite... with the weight. a big problem I had in the past was the sealing of the lenses to avoiding water coming in the snoot. I'm planing to test some construction without silicon sealing but with TPU I also want to be able to open it and close it again and again to make some changes in the parts in the snoot. Change lenses, focal length also type of lense. Add some fresnel or normal lenses .. When I found the good combination (the one I like) I'll build a lighter snoot optimized for the lens combination/position/number I chose

My ultime idea, (result of my precedent test) is to have a part I can put on the top of more or less this solution, with a diaphragme in it. Why on the end of the snoot... because if the diaphragme is on the begining to much light is lost. I I can focus a maximum of light on a small point (in my case with the smal diaphragme I have from Aliexpress, 25 mm diameter) The hole will be possible to be adjust from 2 on 25 mm and that with a maximum of power light comming out. 2mm is probaly not usefull but will be possible. (if the guide is good and understand what the photograph want... why not. but this no the scope of the model I show you today

no in this example only a matte glass (like you can find on the Retra snoot. I have some fresnel lenses from different diameter and focal length. I will probably combine different lenses.

a first picture You see, no you don't see the donut... I reach the target. It is not with the "big aperture" but I hold a small cap with a small hole of 9 mm The idea is to make some cap with different hole size and change it during the dive, Probably printed in TPU

Small update of my test. The idea is to have a snoot where the water can go in --> no problems with water coming in ... it is build for that. Perhaps in an other step I'll try to have air in the snoot but it is not the subject now The bottom part will be "fix" and the top can be print again and again to try different size length and/or diameter of the opening in the top. It is also possible to try different type of glas, lens, fresnel to test the result In the midle it is possible to insert some additional lense to focus the light an put some part in to avoid the reflexion.

I agree it is easier to give my wife as my camera... ( but they is only one I trust enough... A good photographe I learn so much with him in the past.) 🤣

I'm one who don't understand... I can loose the photo gear... and it happen that I give the kamera to the guide.. and one guide in the past had the right to continue diving with my wife and my kamera after I was going up because I'm near end of air... When I dive in lac I have 2 dive computer. One on each arm. I can look a little left or right to have all information I need.

First impression it will work fine... i'm sure. I need to test a small roation of the flip on the side of the MFO-3 to try the position of the lense when they are up. In 2 weeks I'm in Malapascua and after in Sogod... Wide Angle and also some small stuff... I'll publish some pictures. I hope you had fun reading this topic and it give you some idea.

and now the MFO-3 No screw only 2 TPU to maintain the to part in PETG who maintain fermly the lens. Why in red. because the rest is red AND I have TPU in red AND ist one of this piece starting to break It will be easier visible than black on black.

the MFO-1 in place. In his case I can puch down the compas you see on the top of the housing. In vaccation I didn't use the compass but I'lll mainly install an arm with a Gopro 12 to film during I take photo... if it's "necessary"

In the most compact position of the 3 flip

the SMC-1 pulled back

With the SMC-1 in the front

A small update of the realisation.

Yes I cover the ring with epoxy The other part are printed with 70 % filling and wall thickness 4 or 5 pass. If some water get in it is not a problem.. if a piece break It's visible and not break directly complet... it is easy to build a new part Putting epoxy is possible but bring some dimension problems to fit the parts together.

With this setup I'll be able to use my RF100 make some super macro with the SMC-1 If needed put the MFO-1 (80 % of the macros shoots during the last trip) or if there is a bigger subject switch on the MFO-3....

I forgot a point, I removed the rubber on the MFO-3 (like I made on the MFO-1 and SMC-1) to block firmly the lens beetween the to PTEG parts.

Don't hesitate to ask if you have some questions. Hugues

Details of the lens/port jonction. The thead is protected. The lense didn't touch the glas of the port, it is the holder who touch the port, but not the glas.

the final version will look like that

for the MFO-3