CaolIla

Yes I cover the ring with epoxy The other part are printed with 70 % filling and wall thickness 4 or 5 pass. If some water get in it is not a problem.. if a piece break It's visible and not break directly complet... it is easy to build a new part Putting epoxy is possible but bring some dimension problems to fit the parts together.

With this setup I'll be able to use my RF100 make some super macro with the SMC-1 If needed put the MFO-1 (80 % of the macros shoots during the last trip) or if there is a bigger subject switch on the MFO-3....

I forgot a point, I removed the rubber on the MFO-3 (like I made on the MFO-1 and SMC-1) to block firmly the lens beetween the to PTEG parts.

Don't hesitate to ask if you have some questions. Hugues

Details of the lens/port jonction. The thead is protected. The lense didn't touch the glas of the port, it is the holder who touch the port, but not the glas.

the final version will look like that

for the MFO-3

Some test

I found a picture of the black version with 2 binge

I was lucky with the first solution... then the two hinge was perfectly positionned on the ring to give me the possibilty to put a third in the middle I build a part with 3 hinge. and on the opposite 3 hooks All lenses can be put where I want. The idea is SMC on the left MFO-1 in the middle and the MFO-3 on the right. Ich it's no ok I will switch the MFO depending on the result underwater.

The idea is to put 2 rings (in gray on the picture) printed with TPU the only risk ist to lost the MFO-3 ...

first I need a holder for the MFO-3 The other part I build in the past I put the 2 pieces together with screw. thi time I try something else

Since the first version I made a second in black and a second arm for the MFO-1 and a little bit bigger ring to have more buoyancy I was really happy with this solution Now the problem I didn't have a lot of time before our holliday... I need a simple solution

First version mounted

The SMC 1 to show the principe

The first print in 2021

Hi Following the new MFO-3 I had a "problem" Remove the SCM-1 ? Remove the MFO-1 ? No It will be a lost in flexibilty and a lot of change beetween dives. I took the decission to change/modify my double flip into a triple flip First the H117 Some picture from the build of the first version

I didn't followed this discussion, then I have no Nauticam but a self made dual flip (3D Printed) with a floating ring. Thanks for the idea of he O-Ring really a good idea, I like it. I'll print a ring in TPU. By the way: to mount the MFO-3 I received this week I need to modify my flip. Work is ongoing. I'll make a separate discussion to show you the results. Floating ring on the H117 flat Port (Isotta) with 3 flip for the SMC-1 (need to replace with the 3 ?) the MFO-1 and the (big) new MFO-3 I printed all pieces on time in "low" quality and in PLA. All seems to be OK. Now I need to print all again in better quality( Filling %, number of shell) and with PETG I made good experiences with PETG-CF since 2 years now, strong and hold in the time in the water.

Yes

Here the picture

Hi @Tony F I received my MFO-3 yesterday.... No Serial.... wrong... you didn't look at the rigght place... ;)

We also dove in front of the Proco.. A big coral wall..... completly white... was not good Same location, other time/weather/period ... a completly other feeling. As I can remember I thinking that it was a good idea not to come at the Proco... the place (underwater) was not nice. Thanks you for the info.

I found this Dive Halmahera North Maluku with Proco Island Bambu Resort and that is what it is possible to see if you are lucky..... Sali bay is like you say @Luko But if I go a second time in Halmahera It will be not impossible that I 'll try an other resort (one is really not in my budget) but the 2 other why not. They are different with perhaps an other diving philosophie

I've allready write that we had on one dive a current... hummm I understand why they avoid to dive in the current. I flight offen with the drône starting from the Sali Bay... the current was visible at the surface. For sure it is not funny to be in the water in this place. I say again that Halamera can probably be a good place for diving when the condition are ok... but the weather is the weather. Our last trip in Lembeh in june was ok... but the weather and the condition wasn't as good as the times before... and at the end the feeling is not as good as expected. On the other side it is not impossible that you, like I are a little jaded from having seen so many beautiful places the last years. My wife would said : On est devenu des "vieux cons" she is probably not completly wrong.

@Luko With a torchlight it is easy to visualize the result... and it is easy to achieve the goal: have a small spot It works also good with the LED in the center of the Retra strobes... but a flash from the circular light is not as easier. 1) the need of a longer tube is necessary 2) a lens /fresnel or a concentrator as you name it is important to concentrate the light 3) with a lens with circular or only a LED you will have good "picture" of the light sources when you are at the focal length... that is the main problem. With a circular flash light you will have a bright disk with the dark center. I made several test "Difussor" with frosted glas or such glasses I made folowing construct Light/strobe -> Diffussor --> 1 or more lenses with different focal --> tube with special internal shape to avoid the parasite reflexion --> and why not a lens for a last light concentration It is not easy to make a compact solution I still exploring in different direction. Target: Light, easy to (re)build, compact and not expensive. In the tube a try with good results this shape important printed with a black mat filament to avoid a maximum of the reflexion and have a nice boundery beetween the black and white zone on the picture.