CaolIla

All this was ok on land but under water I didn't have enough light power I was very happy using this snoot It is "heavy" for traveling (like the Retra, to heavy for me) But under water it is floating it is good I like that. That are the 2 first Snoot I made with the principe of the diaphragme. Know it time for a third version. I'm in the end phase of the conception and test of this new model.

the smalest point

The results (on land) ;)

I want to share with you some reflexion over my conception of snoot with 3D printing. I made some test over 2 year ago now. My idea was to use a small diaphragme to change the size of the light spot. Maximal aperture 25mm I build a system with magnets to open an close the diaphragme. the result show like that The part in the middle in grey can rotate and open or clos the hole of the diaphragme from 1 mm to 25 mm It's works really good I was happy t Here picture of the previous model the principe is 100% same on the Retra

For the Retra users.. I can recommend for travelling the BQ-CC63 8 AA slim, light I love this charger I use AA Eneloop pro... no such problems but some had some problems allways had error loading it Iost more than 15% of it in the past 3 or 4 years.

I didn't make a lot of shoots with my previous snoot, the main reason was that the conception wasn't the best. I lost a lot of light in the snoot and the output in the front was to poor... in addition that it is complicated to snoot alone. (all diver who started with a snoot will understand that 🤣) With a guide helping to position and hold the snoot in place... it is much more easier. But this need time... not always possible when other divers (my wife) are waiting ;) If I have time this evening I'll make a new topic explaining the conception of the first snoot and show you the new one and why I change some point. In all case many thanks for your answers @TimG

Interesting... thats mean I'll don't need to have a perfekt ouput light on my snoot. I can accept come imperfections. I was not sure that there is so, but you confirm that underwater with so many other things the imperfection will be invisible.

That is exactly how I do

for this picture I putted a small extension The main light point have a really sharp egde There is a big zone arround with some lite light But you can see that I have no reflexion, rings of light

With my poc snoot The light is much more uniform The edge are smooth

This in a photo with the retra snoot on one of my retra, My question is if this will be seen or not on the "real" underwater photo This is with focus point on the light you can see that the light is not uniform

Yes of course... I'm trying some lense combination in the snoot to find the "best" solution and working distance. What are the best distance for the snoot for you? The idea is to have a "large" snoot-light to take a fish head or such big subject... and with an add-on change to much more tiny light point ... 5 or 10 mm diameter for the small subject. The challenge is also to avoid light reflexion going outside of the disk of light. I bought a Retra Snoot from Luko I wanted to show how it is build and work There are a lot of reflexion i didn't like this I make some test with different pieces in the tube to reduce the reflexion, also change the lenght of the tube Some small changes have big effects... it's more or less alway a suprise to show the result of changes

Hi all snooter I'm building a new version of my snoot in 3D printing. (for Retra) I have a Retra Snoot but I want to build my own model. ;) I'm now at the moment of the choice of the shape of the light. 1) a disk with very sharp edges (when the light is at focus) 2) a disk with smooth edge 3) a disk with very smooth edge What did you use, like? The other question is wich size of the disk is the best for you ? I plan to have the posibility of some extra shape and size of the light. Thank you for your help Hugues

I can help.... Did you receive an email ?

I'm waiting the first test Isotta Shipping New RED64 Strobe

For sure I will post my creation, make a new topic with explanation of the conception. Also some picture from the previous snoot and why I build a new one with a new strategy

I agree with you, create some 3D part is fun and not work. I like that I'm building a new snoot for Retra strobe I was not happy with the previous... this one will be perfect... or not ... ;)

+1

Hallo Markus Thanks for your proposition... but I'll make new one but when my new Retra Maxi arrived Target is to have (if possible) one model fitting with both models

The red part are in TPU, i'm not really happy with this parts. I'll probably change the conception and print new one

Nice BUT why a front cap ? What is the benefit? You need to remove the cap underwater --> it is easy to lost it. I create and printed some "ring" to put at the front of the strobes. I remove it under water (sometimes) if I really need wide angle light otherwise it stay on the strobes. The purpose of this "protections" are to put the strobes stable on the desk without a risk that it roll and felt from the desk. (I have no picture but I can take it this evening)

The magnification is perhaps a position "issue" .. I also find the second better.... but the differences are really small I don't know wicht one is with the MFO1.... The magnification is perhaps a position "issue" .. I also find the second better.... but the differences are really small I don't know wicht one is with the MFO1....

The magnification is perhaps a position "issue" .. I also find the second better.... but the differences are really small I don't know wicht one is with the MFO1....