CaolIla

Hi @Oskar - Retra UWT I'm on a diving trip... again I didn't turn my Retra Max II of back in the room. Ok it's my fault but to old Pro X had the green or other color on it was evident that the strobes are not off. --> again the next day.... batteries empty. Please give the information to the developer of the firmeware.... The strobe need to Beep or what ever if on more than 30 min for exemple without made a flash. It is realy the only one problem I see with the new Max II Batterie life is so much better in comparaison of the Pro X.

This point is for me the key point. Only 1 adjustment --> less pictures to delete... etc etc... and a lot of more time under water for other subject or for the composition of the picture. I can't compare with other strobes...my first was the inon s2000 small but not powerfull. I had the retra Pro X and now the Pro Max II. The new one are better I'm still shooting some picture in Philippines... first impression "No regret" having invest again in Retra strobe. Honnestly I didn't shoot in full power.. but I like to have some reserve power ... just in case. But for the moment no need and with the particle in the water there is just impossible. But in all case thanks @jjmochi for your feedback

Macro is dangerous..it's an addiction ☠️ 🙃🤣

+1 for me I was 2 times in Dauin and for me APO wide angle (macro also, but to change a little bit from macros ;) ) for the coast in Dauin macro macro and macro

Thank you for this picture. It is the confirmation that the choice of buying the new retra max II was to good choice... the other strobe are so huge in compareason of the retra..

good idea..

Not sure

Hi, I have buy the G55 and the G100 for my wife last year. It is good for filming small things.. but it is not allways easy with the G55. I didn't use it personnaly but she startet to film more and more small shrimps and she make more an more good small sequences. I buy first the G100 and after one trip add the G55.. it give the possibility have fun with a GoPro For me the quality is ok and it was a good decision to buy it.

Good point for you :) That'is why I sugest BT

Hi @Mathieu Cornillon Thanks, For sure I have a lot of interest... I'll contact you after my trip Thanks again. Hugues

Bluetooth ??? The price of the hardware is "nothing"... the price of the maintenance, is much more... I guest that the main reason not to implement firmeware update are the support they need to give. USB-C ... it is a opening --> to make this part watertight is expensiver as bluetooh... and for sure they will be some fllooding

@administrator It is possible to change the tittle of the subject in " MFO-3 Cap and Hood" Thank you. Hugues

It tooks more time as estimated Printing with TPU need to be patient more that with normal PETG or PLA. It is very slow. The last version First print the part on the top was vertical... not good I saw the hood thru the lens I made a second with a top larger but to thin probably. It is ok but I'm not happy. Now I increase the thickness of the part in the top In 2h now I'll have THE hood ;) The hood is a little bit visible thru the lens (really only a little bit) but in the water I'm sure it will disapear. Second version The hood is 18 mm deep, for surr it will provide a good protection at the front glass of the MFO-3. It is firmly in place it can't be loosed. If you want the STL, ask I'll sent you the file in a MP. (Sorry @Davide DB I didn't publish the file, I want to know who is using my "work" to many consumer... and no feedback, it's my point of view please respect that. Thanks)

That's the remark I made with the UWT trigers... no firmeware update like other

I found a element to simulate the frosted glas. I can make to part, before the frosted glas to concentrate the light of the retra in the best manner. And the second in the tube... until the output Less try and error... I'll have something to do this winter... 😍😝

I found some web site to make optical calculation this seem to be a good one Ray Optics Simulation - PhyDemo I startet the modelisation of the retra snoot... (can be a good "work" for the coming flight ;) In red I draw on the prtscr the "snoot"... 🤣 I need to find now how to define different refraction index with this tool because we have water and the lense didn't work like in the air.. and this for some other infos. ‪Bending Light‬

Not a bad idea... on the other side the MFO-3 is for larger subject.... normaly the glas didn't approach coral or other things... I have the base to build a short hood I'll make that today

I had this opinion with my "old" Retra Pro X the booster hummm the 8 batteries... this wasn't a good combination. With the new Max II wouah it change my life. The AA can be found world wide... it is an argument You will have the Maxi... still not deliverable ... something seems to be wrong with the new model with Lion... I'm happy to have changed my pre-order from the maxi to the max II

The result, I need to attach a small bungee and it is ready for the trip

Hi I found that the original cap have some problems. nothing to hold it when not on the lense Heavy (relatively ;) ) Black... I don't like ... seriously difficult to find if it his lost. I build a new one, to print with TPU l You can print it in red ( like I made it) or black and why not pink or some phosphorecent TPU.... If you want the 3D STL... ask I will sent you the file. If you want some modification same ask...

I'm diving in France & Germany in Dry suit I know what it means... and with a 20 L tank (yes 20 L ;) ) I forgot to say... with my camera :)

The Retra have a big advantage for you from Spain "Address: Retra UWT, Ltd., Spodnje Gameljne 36a, SI-1211 Ljubljana - Smartno, Slovenia (EU)"

I'll make test with this find on Amazon... the bomb are wiating to be used since 4 months :(

I need to make test with the 3D modélisation software I use to look if the raytracing possibility are good enough to achieve the target of a good calculation of the result. With to software I used before (at work)I believe it was possible.

That is more or less what I made in the past. with 3d Printed piece to try different position IN AIR....that is the problem in water the light/lenses work not the same. I bought some mirror paint bomb the idea is to put 1) before the frostet glas (or a very lite frostet glas) a beam concentrator like that Painting the inner part of the snoot before the frostest glass like a "mirror" will help. The inner form need to be calculate to concentrate the light on the frosted glas. The first part will help to minimise the lost of light on the source. Part 2 after In the "tube" It can be painted like mirror... but also there it will help to calculate the form of the tube/cone what ever you want to name this to reach a maximum of the ray to be // at the end of the "tube". If it is not good enough used some "lenses" as collimator to reach a good directed flow of light in front of the snoot.