ChipBPhoto

Try Reef Photo in Ft Lauderdale. They also sell the AOI products.

Rumblings, but nothing verified. Next big announcement opportunity would probably be DEMA in Nov., but no one really knows yet.

Unfinished bottle??? Now that’s just craziness! 😂 Guilty! Fortunately I didn’t bump the red button during the dive; all stayed sealed. Hence the reason I now carry an extra cap in my little bag of o-ring grease and such. 😂

If you want a structured course, check out Kate Jonker’s program. She is quite active on IG and has a one specifically on the TG-6/7. https://courses.underwaterphotocompany.com/tg-underwater-photography-made-easy/learn-more/

No doubt the Retras offer a terrific quality of light. The balance is if the price is the right fit for your budget. I agree about perhaps finding some pre-owned Z-330s. I have been quite happy with mine over the years. I also prefer the flexibility and dependability of AA batteries at this point, although I understand other power cells are the future. Depending on your urgency, you may also want to hold off until DEMA in Nov to see if any new strobe models will be announced. If you do opt for brand new strobes, I would suggest selecting models that are capabilities of HSS, even if your trigger does not now support it. This will help future proof your investment should you want to use that feature at some point. Not being limited by ~1\200th sync speed opens new possibilities.

Just to verify, the trick is to put the wine bottle insert on the vacuum on top of the housing and then put the pump on the top of the insert to make the seal. You could also glue the insert to the pump so you have a solid, single piece, very similar to the Nauticam design.

I found it by going to Amazon US and searching “Vacu Vin.” That is the actual product name. Note it may be different or not available outside the US.

Hi @Apneagraph - good questions. 1 - I have both a 2018 and 2022 M1 11” iPad Pros. I have not seen much of a difference in editing power, even when doing numerous spot removals in LR. The main difference I have seen is when having multiple tabs in Safari. The newer M series processors handle this much better. If it’s in your budget, I’d suggest getting a current iPad as it is the center of your system and it will have a longer future life. 3 - The 13” has more screen space, but I personally prefer the 11” as a best all around solution of carrying and portability. I have never wished I had the larger screen. 4 - If you decide to go with a MacBook, I would highly recommend a Pro vs. and Air model. I have a 2013 MacBook and it never had the power to effectively run LR, even when it was new. The iPad was always a better choice once LR mobile was available. A 14” MacBook Pro will increase your investment cost quite a bit. It depends if you need a full computer vs iPad for other aspects in your life. Hope this helps! chip

Nice write up; thanks for sharing! I’ve been traveling with only an iPad for a few years now. While the work flow is a little different, I’ve found it works well. I really value the light and small footprint. In fact 90% of all my editing is done on my iPad even when I’m home due to the portability. I’m a little OCD regarding potential file loss due to previous issues. I have invested in enough memory cards so I can download the files to my portable SSD drive (lately Samsung T7s) and not need to format the cards until I get home. This allows me to keep all files on the drive, cards, and the ones I especially like on my iPad to sync when internet is available. I also return home with the drive and the cards packed in different bags to help reduce the chance of them being lost.

I haven’t used the spacer for the same reason you mentioned. No issues. Be sure the screws are snug, but not over tightened. Enjoy! chip

Here are my two unique “spares.” Neither cause a space or weight issue, and are a bit beyond the norm. After misplacing my cover to the Nauticam vacuum release button and then doing a dive without it, I’ve added one as a back up. I keep it in my tiny bag with my o-ring grease and a plastic card to remove the main body o-ring for cleaning. Takes no space and could save the day for me or a fellow diver. I also purchased a “Vacu Vin” as a backup to the Nauticam Vacuum pump. Amazon US for $14 vs. Nauticam’s $45 pump. The stopper attached to the pump is the connection size as the Nauticam version. It is a smaller volume pump so it just takes a few extra pumps to make the seal, but works great. When diving local, I leave one at home and put one in my bag in case I have an issue while out.

I’m seeing the same thing. The only real loss will be losing some of the good legacy informational posts. Although we are doing a good job of building it up here.

I saw a response from Backscatter simply saying coming soon, but no definitive release date.

Hi @scubagirl812 - DM me if you are intertested in the CMC. Thanks!

Thanks for looking and the question. He is using it with his Sony a7rIV. Only what’s listed is for sale.

Hi all, I am selling the following complete Sony a6600 system for a friend. The kit has been well cared for and cleaned after each use. Never a leak or flood. All parts work as they should. Best of all, it is less than 1/2 price from new! He has moved on to a new rig and is looking for someone else to have a chance to enjoy making underwater images at a much lower cost. In short, it's a great deal for someone wanting to make great images on day 1 ! List of items: Price New Selling Price Sony a6600 Body.....................................$999.................$599 Sony 16-50 f/3.5-5.6 PZ Lens..................$299.................$100 Nauticam NA-a6600 Housing................$2513................$1400 Nauticam Vacuum....................................$220.................$100 Nauticam Zoom Gear NA-36172..............$242.................$150 Nauticam N85 Port 45 w/ Knob...............$619.................$400 Nauticam Manual Flash Trigger...............$308................$200 Totals: $5200 $2949 Package Price for all Above: $2,495!!! Other items: Price New Selling Price Nauticam CMC-2....................................$387...............$295 Nauticam Bayonet Mount Adapter...........$62................$40 Please see the attached images showing the overall condition of the pieces. Note - the last 2 images were made with this system. - 1st has a WWL-1B attached. - 2nd is using the CMC-2 also listed for sale. Terms: Payment via PayPal F&F; please add 3% for PayPal Goods & Services. USPS Priority shipping to US lower 48 states included. Prefer US sales only. Please DM me with any questions. Thanks for looking!

I have found it best, especially when first starting out with a new type of photography, to use the manufacturer’s guidelines as a proven solution. Per Nauticam, they recommend the SMC with the Sony 90 macro. They do not recommend the CMC which means it will not perform as well, or perhaps at all for sharp focus. I have had good success with the 90/SMC combo.

Hi @RVBldr, Not at all a dumb question. As said above, the SMC pairs with the Sony 90. The CMCs will pair with the Sony 28-60. Also, the SMC-1 is the place to start as the SMC-2 has an even greater magnification which makes it more challenging to use. (Note - the CMCs are backwards with the CMC-2 having lower magnification power than the CMC-1) As far as focusing and focusing frustration, you are exactly right. The Nauticam close focus lenses are incredibly sharp and deliver amazing results. The catch is you do, in fact, need to be extremely close to the subject for them to focus. This is a great article from our friends at Reef Photo showing how to best use them. https://reefphoto.com/blogs/photography/understanding-the-working-distances-of-the-smc-1-smc-2?srsltid=AfmBOopM93DXF4ReQEAKmccQejNYUQccJg3lEiX8l5lQnJhcgHkZ3-Mw In short, the SMC-1 distances are: - Min working distance: 45mm or 1.7” - Max working distance: 93mm or 3.6” That means the SMC-1 will only focus between 1.7” and 3.6” from the subject. And once it’s in focus, your Depth of Field is razor thin. f/16 is really about the most open that is normally usable. f/18-22 is more common. This does indeed make these tools challenging, but yields results that a regular macro lens cannot capture. This ultra close working distance also means it really only works with slow moving or stationary subjects. Think nudibranchs. Chasing a moving fish is not really in the cards, nor what they are designed to do. It does take both practice and patience, but it’s worth the challenge. Hope this helps. Enjoy!

Thanks @Gudge for the info. This confirms I do not need a zoom gear. No significant upside. I use a WACP for 90%+ of my dives, and it’s perfect for what I normally want. My goal is/was to find a solution with about a 160 FoV, primarily for goliaths and manatee. Seems pre-setting the zoom I want with the TC attached will do fine. Good comment on using the 8-15 at 15 with the TC for a wide CFWA tool. I’ll look into it. An FCP and EMWL 160 are on the wish list. I just need to find about $15K laying around somewhere. 😂 Thanks again!

I agree that the image appears to be dramatically underexposed. Once you get the LCD set as you like it, I would strongly encourage the use of the histogram when reviewing for correct exposure in the field. For me, this is the best way to judge if I have correct or usable exposure. By quickly reviewing the histogram I have a “feel” as to what will be a good image for post processing vs. unusable images due to crushed shadows or blown highlights. Hope this helps…

Hi @tkdcol Trying to maximize image quality with a small form is always a challenge, especially if you want to do splits as well. As a long time Canon user, I started with the G11, a predecessor to the G7s. I made some nice images with it, and it was super small for transport and usage. Inon S220s would pair nicely to keep the entire rig small and allow decent wide coverage. Unlike your 7D, there is a slight shutter lag with any compact camera such as the G7s, but it’s easy to learn to compensate. Obviously the sensor is small, as is the image resolution. While you can use manual functions, I found it best used in AV mode using the exposure composition to adjust the scene brightness. Between the Canon R50 and R100, the R50 looks like another solid choice. Depending on your photo style, it will give you a more similar usage experience to your 7D. The Nauticam housing is rock solid and relatively small. The WWL-1B can also be attached for some super sharp images, although it will be a bit larger. The WWL does not do splits. I have actually considered the R50 as a smaller rig since I already have the WWL. Image quality I have seen is very good. It also has the newer focusing tech over your 7D at a low price. Note - I am not a fan of Ikelite housings as I’ve seen too many leak or flood. For me, that knocks out the R100 as Ikelite appears to be the only brand making a housing for that body. (I saw a brand new Ikelite R100 housing flood just a couple weeks ago. It was a defect from the factory, not user error.) You may also consider the Olympus E-M10 for a small, capable solution. Being a micro 4/3 system (m43), you are starting with a very small body and lenses. There is an entire lens/port ecosystem that would fit just about any need you have. Backscatter has a good page outlining the various options. (See link below) There are also a few users of the m43 system here that can give more feedback. Images I have seen produced by them have been quite good. I had an original E-M1 and really liked it! If small size is the most important consideration while you’re guiding others, you may also want to check out the Olympus TG7, or TG6 (basically the same). They also excel at macro images. Lastly, if DMs are guiding students or guests, but they are not photo focused, I see most with a simple GoPro/tray clipped to their BC. This keeps their hands free to attend to the guests as needed, but they can still make some quick images or videos for social media. There are definitely some solid options. The question really comes down to how much of a rig are you comfortable with or allowed to carry with guests? And what is the impact on increased risk of liability you assume and/or their perception of your time focused on photos over them? If you’re acting as a photo guide, I would think that is something different than being a normal DM guiding guests, and your rig carried may differ. That’s a question only you can answer. Hope this helps. Good luck! https://www.backscatter.com/reviews/post/Olympus-OM-D-E-M10-IV-Underwater-Camera-Housing-Review

I had the MF-2 covers printed in red and added a white stripe for improved visibility of the marker line. I’m happy with how it turned out. Thanks again @Dave_Hicks for the plans!

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Hey Gudge - thanks for the message. I have the Kenko 1.4 and either the Metabones or MC-11 for the Nauticam housing. (I have and use both) It seems like the usable zoom range to avoid vignetting is about ~11-15. Not really sure it’s worth it vs. just setting the zoom at ~12 w the TC and zooming with my fins. Any thoughts?

Still need…..