Hi everyone,

I'm going to buy my first underwater lens and I would like to start with Nikon z 24-50 (Nikon z8) with Nauticam WWL-C, because it's good and cost me less than 14-30 or 14-24 with dome. It is good for all my purposes but I would know if it is suitable for snorkeling, as example orcas in Norway. Could I face air bubbles problems? How could I manage? Thank you so much!

Edited September 25Sep 25 by Mirko

The WWL-C is not a good lens to use for snorkeling. While bubbles clear quickly just a few meters underwater when diving, you will likely experience issues when snorkeling. For whale encounters you often need to dive in and shoot fast, so it is not practical to remove the port underwater to clear bubbles. Go with a conventional dry port.

I did a similar trip with my Z8 and shot the 8-15mm fisheye and 140mm dome. I got great shots. I would suggest adding a 1.4 or even 2.0 teleconverter to provide just a little more range.

Edited September 25Sep 25 by Dave_Hicks

1 hour ago, Dave_Hicks said:

The WWL-C is not a good lens to use for snorkeling. While bubbles clear quickly just a few meters underwater when diving, you will likely experience issues when snorkeling. For whale encounters you often need to dive in and shoot fast, so it is not practical to remove the port underwater to clear bubbles. Go with a conventional dry port.

I did a similar trip with my Z8 and shot the 8-15mm fisheye and 140mm dome. I got great shots. I would suggest adding a 1.4 or even 2.0 teleconverter to provide just a little more range.

Thank you so much for sharing your experience and congratulations for your pictures!

Orca in Norway… umm… quickly in and out, 7 mil wet gloves, cold fingers no you don’t want to do take off wet lense and clear bubbles 😂. Plus you won’t see shit, viz is real bad and without monitor at angle you won’t see shit anyway. AF will struggle and without sun up you won’t see anything guaranteed. For memories better to add X6 with UW case on a 3m pole to the price of the trip and be done with it. But with luck it’s a blast. Unforgettable. In the splash zone of surfacing humpback. 💙

31 minutes ago, RomiK said:

Orca in Norway… umm… quickly in and out, 7 mil wet gloves, cold fingers no you don’t want to do take off wet lense and clear bubbles 😂. Plus you won’t see shit, viz is real bad and without monitor at angle you won’t see shit anyway. AF will struggle and without sun up you won’t see anything guaranteed. For memories better to add X6 with UW case on a 3m pole to the price of the trip and be done with it. But with luck it’s a blast. Unforgettable. In the splash zone of surfacing humpback. 💙

Thank you, Yes I know the environment because I was there during December 2023 with a Gopro, but now I want take the picture 😊

11 hours ago, Mirko said:

Thank you, Yes I know the environment because I was there during December 2023 with a Gopro, but now I want take the picture 😊

Why the question then? 🙈 You know the 7 mil drill 😂 We were very lucky for the weather last year last week of October. Still the viz was unforgiving even for my Sony A1 AF. Got a few nice snaps but in our group (several big cams) the consensus was that action cam was the way to make memories 🤷. But we also were dry. Next time for me is wet. And will I take big cam next time? For sure!🤣

54 minutes ago, RomiK said:

Why the question then? 🙈 You know the 7 mil drill 😂 We were very lucky for the weather last year last week of October. Still the viz was unforgiving even for my Sony A1 AF. Got a few nice snaps but in our group (several big cams) the consensus was that action cam was the way to make memories 🤷. But we also were dry. Next time for me is wet. And will I take big cam next time? For sure!🤣

I'm asking because I'm going to buy my first underwater setup for my z8 and I like the wwl-c. I would use it in my sea (Mediterranean sea) and other seas (Red Sea, Maldives, Bahamas) but I was wondering if it is usable also in Norway or should consider to buy a classic rettilinear lens with dome...

The WWL-C setup is very good, but not for this use case. You will ultimately want a fisheye wide option as well, so go ahead and get the Nikon 8-15 and a 140mm dome with it.

On 9/26/2026 at 10:01 AM, Mirko said:

I'm asking because I'm going to buy my first underwater setup for my z8 and I like the wwl-c. I would use it in my sea (Mediterranean sea) and other seas (Red Sea, Maldives, Bahamas) but I was wondering if it is usable also in Norway or should consider to buy a classic rettilinear lens with dome...

My route with Sony A1 was 180glass with 16-35PZ which proved awesome for big seas Socorro and Cocos as my first destination with the camera. Also for A1 seamless zoom to APSC so it gave me 16-55 on 4k with all metadata.

Next step was WWL-1B (which may be for sale btw) where the original idea was both tele, macro and wide-angle on one dive. Well it didn't last long as on Galapagos I missed a lot of action between the drop and bubbles cleaning.

Then for the fun of it the experiment with 140glass and adapted Canon 8-15 with TC2x. Both with and without TC not a good idea as the whole setup is loooong and gave me little compared to next step.

And so then ultimately it came to WACP-C which is still good for travel and create a pocket rocket out of A1 with sharpness unparalleled to any of above and the seamless reach from 130deg all the way to like 35 in 4K on A1.

One would say I could have save some money skipping the two intermediates.

For orca Norway trip with Z8 I would get 180glass with 14-30 F4 which would give you chance for nice topside snaps without taking camera out, splits and very good wide angle. And will become ultimate video package. And then close your eyes, open the wallet and get WACP-C with 24-50 and call it a day 🤣

Above pictures and video below are done with sony's equivalent 16-35 f4PZ

Edited September 27Sep 27 by RomiK

6 hours ago, RomiK said:

My route with Sony A1 was 180glass with 16-35PZ which proved awesome for big seas Socorro and Cocos as my first destination with the camera. Also for A1 seamless zoom to APSC so it gave me 16-55 on 4k with all metadata.

Next step was WWL-1B (which may be for sale btw) where the original idea was both tele, macro and wide-angle on one dive. Well it didn't last long as on Galapagos I missed a lot of action between the drop and bubbles cleaning.

Then for the fun of it the experiment with 140glass and adapted Canon 8-15 with TC2x. Both with and without TC not a good idea as the whole setup is loooong and gave me little compared to next step.

And so then ultimately it came to WACP-C which is still good for travel and create a pocket rocket out of A1 with sharpness unparalleled to any of above and the seamless reach from 130deg all the way to like 35 in 4K on A1.

One would say I could have save some money skipping the two intermediates.

For orca Norway trip with Z8 I would get 180glass with 14-30 F4 which would give you chance for nice topside snaps without taking camera out, splits and very good wide angle. And will become ultimate video package. And then close your eyes, open the wallet and get WACP-C with 24-50 and call it a day 🤣

Above pictures and video below are done with sony's equivalent 16-35 f4PZ

AMAZING Video!! I'm thinking to buy the Viltrox 16mm 1.8 just for Orcas and then add the wwl-c. What do you think?

I have to agree with the opinions and experience above. While the WWLs are terrific wet mount options, the WAPC-C is the way to go for a dry mount solution. I started with a WWL and heard the real world encounters with small bubbles between the lens and port from people I personally know and trust. Modern auto focus can easily lock on to those and miss the focus of your intended subject.

The WACP-C is ready for action as soon as you hit the water!

Edited September 27Sep 27 by ChipBPhoto

Hi,

don´t want to steal you thunder as I might be wrong, but from what I know the WWL-C is not designed for FF bodies (it will display vigneting probably). You could run your Z8 in aps-c mode (with a standart zoom aps-c lens) or it is probably more apropriate to get the WWL-B or WWL-1.

From my expirience when snorkeling with whale sharks, most of the encounters are quite short (like 5s in a position to get a good shot) and you get in and out of water a lot. Clearing bubbles seems to me like a great complication that can be avoided by either a dome port / WACP / action cam.

Edited September 27Sep 27 by hon05

27 minutes ago, hon05 said:

Hi,

don´t want to steal you thunder as I might be wrong, but from what I know the WWL-C is not designed for FF bodies (it will display vigneting probably).

This is incorrect.

1 hour ago, hon05 said:

Hi,

don´t want to steal you thunder as I might be wrong, but from what I know the WWL-C is not designed for FF bodies (it will display vigneting probably). You could run your Z8 in aps-c mode (with a standart zoom aps-c lens) or it is probably more apropriate to get the WWL-B or WWL-1.

From my expirience when snorkeling with whale sharks, most of the encounters are quite short (like 5s in a position to get a good shot) and you get in and out of water a lot. Clearing bubbles seems to me like a great complication that can be avoided by either a dome port / WACP / action cam.

Hi,

WWL-C works perfectly fine with FF and 24-50 :)

16 hours ago, Mirko said:

AMAZING Video!! I'm thinking to buy the Viltrox 16mm 1.8 just for Orcas and then add the wwl-c. What do you think?

Thanks :-) we were lucky with this feeding session. But before it was ended not by one, not by two but 4 humpbacks my battery died and my backup Osmo I lent a poor soul who drowned hers so talk about luck :-)

As for 1.8 it's tempting BUT you would need extra rings and 250mm dome which is like not practical and very expensive. My experience with excellent Sony 14mmF1.8 wide open on 180mm glass wasn't good. And if you become a lucky dog and orca bypass you only center will be sharp at 1.8 so I would not go that route. That orca feeding picture above was 1/250 F4 ISO25600 but in Slog3 so without log it would have been ISO6400 which is like nothing for A1 and I guess for Z8 too.

That video was at 4pm so quite dark already but F4 24fps in Slog3 overexposed took care of that :-) ISO was like 32000 but with Sony A1 you dont really need to care... :-)

So if you want one good solution for Orca and beyond get a loan and go for WACP-C. You will not regret it (your wallet maybe will🤣) . And stop being obsessed with WWL-C nonsense, your Z8 deserves better 🤣

1 hour ago, RomiK said:

Thanks :-) we were lucky with this feeding session. But before it was ended not by one, not by two but 4 humpbacks my battery died and my backup Osmo I lent a poor soul who drowned hers so talk about luck :-)

As for 1.8 it's tempting BUT you would need extra rings and 250mm dome which is like not practical and very expensive. My experience with excellent Sony 14mmF1.8 wide open on 180mm glass wasn't good. And if you become a lucky dog and orca bypass you only center will be sharp at 1.8 so I would not go that route. That orca feeding picture above was 1/250 F4 ISO25600 but in Slog3 so without log it would have been ISO6400 which is like nothing for A1 and I guess for Z8 too.

That video was at 4pm so quite dark already but F4 24fps in Slog3 overexposed took care of that :-) ISO was like 32000 but with Sony A1 you dont really need to care... :-)

So if you want one good solution for Orca and beyond get a loan and go for WACP-C. You will not regret it (your wallet maybe will🤣) . And stop being obsessed with WWL-C nonsense, your Z8 deserves better 🤣

Thank you! Did you go with Waterproof Expeditions? I went with them in December 2023 but we had just one day on the sea, but lucky enough to find a bait ball. Anyway gopro hero 10 was terrible.

5 hours ago, Mirko said:

Thank you! Did you go with Waterproof Expeditions? I went with them in December 2023 but we had just one day on the sea, but lucky enough to find a bait ball. Anyway gopro hero 10 was terrible.

yes, Waterproof. Was your Polar Front already converted to diesel electric? That boat is AWESOME! Whom do you go with this time?

Yes action cams were terrible from what I saw, people had their gopro13s and such and perhaps good for cellphone but not for your home 72inch OLED panel. But they were handy and got the memories... This is why I originally steered you towards X6 because that thing has awesome low light mode and still with 10bit I-log. In your shoes I would still get it as 2nd cam... considering the cost of this experience nothing seems expensive :-)

1 hour ago, RomiK said:

yes, Waterproof. Was your Polar Front already converted to diesel electric? That boat is AWESOME! Whom do you go with this time?

Yes action cams were terrible from what I saw, people had their gopro13s and such and perhaps good for cellphone but not for your home 72inch OLED panel. But they were handy and got the memories... This is why I originally steered you towards X6 because that thing has awesome low light mode and still with 10bit I-log. In your shoes I would still get it as 2nd cam... considering the cost of this experience nothing seems expensive :-)

I went with Virgo Ship, very lovely ship. Now I will go with Lofoten-Oppleveslver from 11th to 15th November. It's just a last minute booking because they had cancellations. I'm paying 1/3 the price of Waterproof but I know is a completely different experience. I have the X5 I will use one my main camera :) Are you also going?

for 1/3? heck yeah! Where do I fly?

As for X5 the problem is not so much with the camera itself but the housing. Standard housing should have never been released and the pro housing does better but still way worse then X6... trust me.... have them all... 360 standard and pro AND Nauticam's ...

On 9/26/2026 at 3:03 AM, RomiK said:

Why the question then? 🙈 You know the 7 mil drill 😂 We were very lucky for the weather last year last week of October. Still the viz was unforgiving even for my Sony A1 AF. Got a few nice snaps but in our group (several big cams) the consensus was that action cam was the way to make memories 🤷. But we also were dry. Next time for me is wet. And will I take big cam next time? For sure!🤣

Dry sounds nice! Why wet the next trip? Is it just speed into the water?

21 hours ago, brightnight said:

Dry sounds nice! Why wet the next trip? Is it just speed into the water?

it's the ability to submerge even if 2m. For better angle. To get orcas and humpbacks with the surface. Otherwise its mostly boring. In drysuit you really are a duckie like that plastic toy for kids bathtubs 🤣. On one drop I lost a fin. When I saw it I tried to grab it. It was hovering and slowly really slowly descending. Almost neutral buoyancy. My fingers were like 2cm from it. I tried to jump up and down using my remaining fin. I was not able to touch it. 🤣 The only thing I could do was observing that beautiful yellow fin slowly descend into the blue in a beautiful sunny nordic day 🤣 Edit: I forgot - and I saw orca underneath (true) and I thought 'wouldnt that be nice if she would bring it back to me?'🤣🤣 Save Willy! 🤣

Edited September 29Sep 29 by RomiK

On 9/25/2026 at 5:06 PM, Mirko said:

Hi everyone,

I'm going to buy my first underwater lens and I would like to start with Nikon z 24-50 (Nikon z8) with Nauticam WWL-C, because it's good and cost me less than 14-30 or 14-24 with dome. It is good for all my purposes but I would know if it is suitable for snorkeling, as example orcas in Norway. Could I face air bubbles problems? How could I manage? Thank you so much!

WACP-C with the z24-50 will work better for snorkeling—same coverage and zoom through, but dry mount—no burp. More expensive but not ridiculous like the Nautican Fisheye lens.

WACP is great but worth considering the downsides of it too. Cost, size, travel, weight, hyrodynamics, etc. I haven't used the WWL and I do love the WACP, but sometimes it can be too much of a beast even if it takes great images.