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List updated on: May 20, 2025 Prices are just a ballpark This post will be updated based on your feedback regarding errors, omissions, and new models Housing + Monitor Model Size (inches) brightness (nits) UW Weight (g) Avg. Price (Euro) Marelux MX-SHINOBI (SDI) + Atomos Shinobi 5" 5" 1000 ? 2400 (2100 + 300) Nauticam NA-Shinobi II + Atomos Shinobi 5" 5" 1000 -180 2900 (2600 + 300) Nauticam NA-Ultra5 + SmallHD Ultra 5 5" 5" 3000 +480 4900 (2700 + 2200) Standalone Monitors Model Size (inches) brightness (nits) UW Weight (g) Avg. Price (Euro) Anglerfish HD57 4K 5.7 550 -145 1800 Kraken KRM02 V2 5 3000 -260 1300 Kraken KRM07-2200 V2 7 2200 -560 1900 Weefine WED-5 5.5 480 -260 1000 Weefine WED-7 PRO 7 500 -280 1600 Nauticam 7" T7 HD UltraBright Monitor 7 3000 -830 3000 SUPE/Scubalamp UM5.5 5.5 3000 -700 1000 Fotocore MR6 6 2600 ? 1300 Fotocore MR5.5 5.5 2000 -740 1 1200 Dive & See DNC-5C 5 600 -300 2900 Dive & See DNC-7B 7 450 ? 3000 1 = data obtained via private spec request Some monitors are sold under different brand names: SUPE/Scubalamp/Fotocore/Aquatech

Hello from Backscatter Underwater Video & Photo in Monterey, CA. I'm Becca, the operations manager.

One of the really nice things about this community is the mutual support folks offer. Long may that remain!

Filmed over hundreds of dives around Vancouver Island and the Salish Sea, this is a 1-minute teaser for my full 2-hour film featuring wild Pacific octopus and Ruby octopus. From babies the size of a pea to full-grown giants. No narration, no captions—just octopuses doing octopus things in the cold, emerald waters of British Columbia. You’ll see them hunt, change color, fight, crawl, vanish, and interact with their environment in ways that might leave you with a new appreciation for these incredible creatures. Great to play in the background—or just zone out and watch them move.

First picture After the test if all is ok I ll make a new one without the sepration to gain some gr To be coutinued...

I'm waiting the first test Isotta Shipping New RED64 Strobe

Sorry to hear about your MF-1 strobe failing. It’s never any fun to have your equipment stop functioning and we understand your frustration. One thing that I would ask you to test and check is what happens if you use the battery and/or battery handle from your other MF-1 strobe in this unit (sounds like you have based on previous replies in this thread)? Does the behavior of that strobe change? What happens when you do the reverse and use the battery and battery handle from the questionable unit on the other functional strobe? From your description of the blue blinking light turning to red blinking, this to me points to a possible fault with one or more components on the internal circuitry. If this is actually the case, there is unfortunately no quick and easy field fix and the strobe will have to be evaluated at either our service center in Monterey or sent to an authorized Dealer. The closest Backscatter dealer to your location in Bali would be DiveSea Indonesia. While they are located on a different island, they can potentially ship a replacement strobe out to you relatively quickly if you wanted to order another. At this point, these MF-1 strobes are out of their normal warranty period. Here is their website: https://www.divesea.co.id/pages/contact-us. We have reached out to DiveSea Indonesia from our end to alert them to your situation and give them a heads up, but I encourage you to reach out to them yourself as well. Feel free to email our Service Department directly at [email protected] if you wish to discuss the issue further.

Favorinus tsuruganus

By the way, I want to thank everyone who offered to lend me a strobe here in Bali or even from Europe. Luckily, I have other strobes with me so I can continue enjoying photography on my vacation. Thanks to everyone, and best regards.

We seem to be having something of a Spam Attack going on at the moment. Many thanks to members who alerted us to the first intruders. Just to let you know that the team are monitoring the situation and are whacking moles as necessary.

Hello WaterPixels Community! My name is Sevag and I am the Service Manager at Backscatter Underwater Video & Photo. Feel free to send service questions and inquiries to [email protected]

If you are bored, have a cup of coffee here is the long version, 17min, Anilao trip. The classic Mark Twain quote, "I didn't have time to write you a short letter, so I wrote you a long one instead". Next cut it down to under 6mins....

Hello there, I've been diving for the last decades and started taking memories with a Canon A95 and no skills at all. Once amazed by gopros I skipped from hero 3 to 8, tried my luck with an insta X4 and ater months of phycological warfare managed to get a refund. My latest endeavour consists of using my Samsung s24U inside a Divevolk housing. As you guessed by now with my luck streak, this is not going well: the black magic app does not really do wonders, the standard Samsung video pro remains bland and I am having second thoughts before buying a motioncam pro licence. If one of you has reached some level of success with this setup ... I love you already.

Sorry the better half found typos in the version I posted, lol. So here his the correctly spelled version....

Oh yes, David, of course, I was just agreeing with your statement. I had just been trying to get the flash working for the umpteenth time, with the same results; you can imagine my frustration. I was simply reiterating what you had written. Best regards.

Like many of us I mostly shoot in manual mode. Today it occurred to me that it isn't logical that my strobe control works in 1/2 EV steps and my camera is set at 1/3 EV steps. Both set at 1/2 steps would make it easier to make adjustments in aperture or ISO. Wonder what your thoughts are on this issue.

You really need to read the fine print, used to be that a lot of policies specifically exclude water damage for cameras for example, including specialist camera gear insurance. Regular travel insurance includes riders limiting the maximum value for individual items in particular categories, so you end up needing to list items and it can get very expensive very quickly. For example you might have $10,000 cover for valuables but are limited to a maximum value for any one item of $1500 as an example.

Hi, the Youshiko charger I usually use back home has all kind of modes like different charge modes with more or less power/speed, refresh, test, discharge. But as already mentioned I used only on the diving trip the EBL FY-409 charger. It has only one charge mode. And it took about 6-10 hours to charge the eneloops (imagine arround 60-80% discharged) The charger was delivered and recommended by RETRA to charge the eneloops. Strange imagination if then the charger is the problem. Anyway many thanks for your support. Try also to contact eneloop distributor in Germany. If I get any news will let you know. Br Markus

The INON S220 is a great little strobe very compact and probably more suitable for wide angle work than the MF-2 and the buttons/dials seem like they would be easier to use than the old S2000. It seems like it probably has more output than the Z240 even. That said a single Retra might be a good option as well.

The difference is so small in real terms, does it really matter?

The snoot is shorter as the previous 15 cm and also lighter. With the volume it will be positive under waterand with a carabiner can be attached where it will float and did not disturb anything. I will probably make in a second step a small extension with a diaphragm in it to have the possibility of changing the size of the light. The main changes in the new snoot is to bring a maximum of the light from the strobe to the ouput the different lenses concentrate the light step by step in the midle.. This will reduce the power need of the strobe. and with more power I will be able to shoot at F22 to increase the deep of field on very small subject. Comment and question are welcome ( idea also :) )

I reopen this old message because I discovered that Isotta added a mysterious "lens Holder" to their action cam accessories page with no explanation, but from the photos it seems a Inon/AOI adapter 🕵‍♀️ ISOTTA - Underwater housingsGoPro lens holder

Google Sign in is now fixed. Apple Sign in works although on singing in you will get a can't find page error, if you hit the refresh button or go to the Waterpixels.net URL in your browser it will actually sign you in and load. Working on it.

Particularly with m43, there's minimal image quality advantage for using a large dome with a fisheye lens, though an 8"dome certainly will with over-unders. It looks like the only Pen housing to OM-D port adapter sold adds 37mm of extension which is too long to use with your 4"dome. The thing to be aware of if you went with the 8-25 is to resist the temptation to zoom in too much as opposed to getting closer. You do of course lose the fisheye effect if going that way. I think it's probably best to practice more with your strobe placement, particularly getting them well back behind the dome.

Former Wetpixel user that came over here when it was up and running. Beginner that prefers wide angle over macro.

I have been testing the Sony 50 macro with a "curved port" (aka a dome port) using my A7RV and A7CR with the Nauticam N120 140mm dome. I estimated the EP at 43mm at infinity and 45mm at 1:4 (behind the dome it will be always focusing close because of the virtual image). With a 25mm adapter (= extension), I calculated the alignment is almost perfect. Land tests extol the IQ of the 50 macro, and criticise the slow AF. However, almost all available tests are using older Sony cameras, and there seems to be some improvement with the latest bodies. There is no need to get the port mentioned, although it may be easier to light close-ups because of the small size. On the other hand, I have not seen a figure for the radius of this port, so we have no starting point to calculate the correct extension to best align the optical centre and the lens EP - and I believe you should always try to align a dome and lens as best you can. I have posted results in other threads, but to recap: Good: Improvement in IQ (overall sharpness right across the image) is astonishing. Not so good: There are AF issues when using AFC with tracking and medium spot (my preferred setup for all my photography), presumably because of the 10 year old lens' primitive AF motor (compared to the latest zooms). The AF adjustments required when tracking focus on the VI are minute. But it is doable - if you give the camera a little extra time to "decide" it is in focus before you take the photo. You will still get the occasional failure - but nothing as bad as trying to use the MFO with Sony 90 with AFC and tracking - see the older MFO thread. Next step is to go backwards and test AFS and AFC without tracking, and see how that compares. I would rather not, but I suppose it will be OK for subjects which are centre frame. Even so, for general use I wouldn't go back to a flat port for this lens (only for the 90 - which I haven't got to work well behind a dome).

First of all, I tried using it in Underwater for a two-day monitor test. Yes, it's a heavy brick, but it's comfortable underwater with the addition of a buoyant to the arm. The weight underwater didn't bother me too much. I mounted the ball on the rear side, making it as close as possible to the camera housing, and set it to look in the 45 degree direction. (The rear screw hole is shorter than the screw in the component, so I added a washer to fix it without a gap. The design is a little strange.) It's bright. The brightness adjustment can be wheeled from 1-100%, but it never went up more than 30% even in very sunny weather. I don't need 3000-nit brightness monitor is necessary. I can't hear the cooling fan. I'm not sure if I removed the fan while waterproofing the feelworld monitor or if I can't hear the sound. I'm 95% photo, less than 5% video. I only use mirroring. I only use brightness control for my monitor, and I don't need anything else. I haven't used it for wide angle shooting yet, and I used it for snoot shooting during macro shooting. The monitor was installed in the front of the camera housing a little bit, making snoot aiming a lot easier. Because physically my arms can go further. The color of the monitor is not very important to me, but the color temperature seems to be a little low. I saw complaints about monitor delay in other reviews, but I couldn't feel the delay on Nikon camera. In the camera photo mode, the 16:9 of the monitor cannot be fully filled, but the intuition is increased by showing the camera setting values large on the black remaining areas on both sides. The satisfaction is high enough to try the underwater monitor now. The downside is that first of all, the cable protrudes to the left, causing the buoyancy agent and interference when controlling the arm. I'm a little worried about the durability of the external hdmi cable. I have plan a two-week trip in dauin, Philippines at the beginning of next month, so I think I can tell you more about it after using The Long Term. As a result of many searches before purchasing, supeum5.5 seems to be sold by changing the name not only in fotocore but also in Aquatech Housing.

Hi All, New to this site, diving 40 years, underwater photography started as a small child snorkelling over 50 years ago (anyone remember the Agfa Guppy system using 110 cartridge film?) but my habit didn't get out of hand until about 25 years ago. Shot stills exclusively until discovering GoPro 8 or 9 years ago, capability of equipment far exceeds talent and ambition! Still diving a Drager rebreather (hence the handle), a really great rig for photography. D.

I weighed the SUPE UM5.5. There is a slight error between the precision scale and the luggage scale, so it is not very accurate. Since the baggage scale cannot be measured less than 1kg, it was measured by adding a weight and then subtracting the weight from the weight. The weight includes 2 * 21700 battery and an inch ball. Precision scale on Land: 1320 g luggage scale on Land: 1.2 kg luggage scale Underwater : 0.7 kg Error approximately 120 g SUPEUM5.5 seems to be the same as fotocore. I received the monitor last week, and when I turn it on, the fotcore logo appears on the screen. (Weighing in cold water, the fog in the picture is an external screen.)

In addition to being a manual focus lens requiring a custom focus gear the lens at 1:2 is only 1.42 inches (36mm) from the front of the lens. This means that in a 230mm port 1:2 would be inside the dome port even in a 180mm port sharp minimum focus would be inside the port. This means you won't be able to take advantage of minimum 1:2 focus or anything near it. Laowa has the 10mmF/2.8 AF in Sony and Nikon Z mount with a 12mm F/2.8 coming this year. The 10mm focuses even closer than the 15mm at 12cm and works very well in the 230mm dome with focus to the dome port. I owned the original version of the Laowa 15mm which also focused to 1:2. Great lens for nature in air but not very useful underwater. You can read my Laowa 10mm AF review at uwpmag.com in back issues.

Depends on which port, Nauticam N120 are easily adapted to Isotta and S&S, just by changing the lug ring. But there is very little I've seen to use N120 ports on smaller system ports like n85, or Isotta B102 which go with the m43 cameras. I think it probably unlikely to find anything you can use on AOI or Seafrogs. A lot of adapters have been discontinued recently, Backscatter still has a few of them: Backscatter.comBackscatter Underwater type: Port Adaptors - BackscatterBackscatter Underwater type: Port Adaptors

IDK if it helps but my experience with blackout on Sony A1 and Shinobi - it was there had resolution set to Auto or 4k30 in camera HDMI settings. When I set the HDMI settings to 1080p60 there was no blackout when switching modes anymore. Apparently camera is negotiating with monitor for the best resolution for given mode. When it doesn't negotiate there is no blackout and 1080p60 works well for both photo and video - no need to have 4k when monitor is 1080p anyway... BUT IDK weefine internals so...

In this post I want to share some experience with photo processing using ON1 NoNoise / Photo Raw 2024 (still the current version of the AI tools). There are now many programs out there with AI de-noising, sharpening and more capabilities and they likely all do a good job. ON1 allows quite flexible tuning of their algorithm and for my images the default settings are NOT what gives me best results. This may be comparable in other programs – so here it comes. My personal “sweet spot” is to use both, NoNoise and TackSharp. For NoNoise, I set luminance to 65%, detail to 23% and color to 50%. Tack sharp is very aggressive and I only add it in to give a small “touch-up” at 15%. There is another slider called “microsharpen” and I tend to leave that at the default of 100. Like this: If the contrast is too crisp, I reduce the microsharpen value (to 50 or even 30). If I am disturbed by AI artifacts I first reduce the TackSharp to 10% and then if necessary the detail to 15 or 20%. Usually that is enough. I use either an Olympus E-PL5 or an EM-5 (the first model). Both cameras have the same sensor, so the IQ is the same. And they certainly benefit from modern processing software. Examples, of course! I start out with above-water pictures because I vary the ISO more than under water. But water is close (lens was a Lumix 12-32 kit zoom, the tiny one). First, an outside picture at base ISO of 200 (full image is AI-processed): And a 100% crop without any de-noising applied (so essentially raw but with adjustments of contrast, vibrance etc.) Here is the crop with the AI-settings applied: I like the detail in the shadow below the deck that is much better here; some artifacts are visible, but not too bad. And now an image of the steam engine inside the boat, this was taken at ISO 6400 (full image is AI-processed): Here’s a 100% crop with no noise reduction applied. Not bad at all, I think – considering it is a 13 year-old camera model. I use ON1 PhotoRaw and this also offers a “classic” de-noising option so I can compare NR options while everything else is the same. Probably comparable to other programs and I applied this with caution at something like 25% luminance, 50% detail, 100% color and 50% detail in that. Slightly better, but if you go stronger luminance values it wrecks all the detail. Now here is the crop with the AI settings applied: Not magic – but better still. There is a bit of luminance noise left, but for my purposes this result is perfectly sufficient. What I like about this algorithm is the “elasticity” – both images were AI-processed with the exact same settings and they both (and many more) turn out nice. The program defaults are way too aggressive, though. As mentioned before these settings are my “sweet-spot” and I now routinely apply this to essentially all images (but read the very end of the post). Does this turn my classic cameras into a current Sony full-frame model with a Zeiss Batis lens? Certainly not. But this is better than the out-of-camera jpg (which I am not showing because contrast ect. is different). And it of course does not change the autofocus-performance of my old cameras - just forget about using TackSharp to recover an image that is clearly out-of-focus. That’s a myth. Now what about under water? This is a grouper in Madeira, shot with the E-PL5 and the 14-42 kit lens behind a flat port and an Inon UWL-H100 wetlens (no dome) at ISO 200; some sand was in the water and I used strobes, so lots of backscatter (full image is AI-processed): A 100% crop of the cheek with no noise reduction applied: Here is the “classic” NR version (though it really doesn't need any NR): And here comes the version with AI applied (my settings): Some detail on the grouper skin is probably AI fantasy, but if I really turn up the contrast on the original I can see the larger wrinkles. The grains of sand were real, too. Artifact or not – once I stop pixel-peeing, it looks really natural and I don’t have the actual grouper to compare with. But I do think that ON1 was trained in part on pics of leather sofas. This is the eye with no NR: With classic NR: And with the AI settings: Pick your preference… I am also cropping a region with backscatter for obvious reasons. For this, I am comparing the mild “classic” noise reduction: And the AI version: I read they trained the model to be well-suited for starry skies, and this can be seen. Backscatter is more focused and more intense – which is, after all, what I am asking for with my settings. In this picture, the backscatter has to be removed by other means anyways; I ended up using a blur and masking out the grouper. Whether it is easier to do this before or after applying the AI de-noising I honestly cannot tell, it probably depends on the strategy and tools employed. Is there any other downside to this? Yes, and that is processing time. I do not have a powerful computer (a 5-year-old laptop with an i5 processor and its built-in graphics only). Processing a 16 MPx raw image with these settings takes literally 15 minutes. To make things worse, ON1 PhotoRaw will go through a new calculation every time you re-open the image for processing (I hope the Photoshop-plugin is different). Thus, with the settings in place, it takes me 15 minutes to open an image. No kidding. That’s why I don’t apply these settings until the very end. Rather, I open images without any NR, adjust whatever I need (contrast, white balance, remove blemishes etc.) and with highlights and shadows I leave a tiny amount to room because the AI procedure increases contrast a bit – thus I avoid clipping. When I am all done with the images in e.g. one folder, I navigate to a different source image, copy out the NR sweet-spot settings, go back to the current folder, select all images, paste in only the NR settings, select to export all images as high-quality jpg to a subfolder and then go to bed. Depending on how fruitful the trip was, I might even go to bed twice before it’s done. This is why the “elasticity” of the algorithm is so important & useful. If you want to try it out – they offer a free 30-day trial with no restrictions, I believe. There are standalone packages and a photoshop plugin. I have no affiliation whatsoever with the company and I am sure other tools can give comparable results. Just make sure you venture beyond the default settings.

Hey @wetdreams Hope that you get it sorted, Backscatter are brilliant with their support. Have a great time and look forward to seeing your images.

Not sure if something is just off for me or if it's a wider thing but google sign in doesn't seem to work anymore, the oauth redirect page gives a 403 so I wonder if it's going to a URL from the old site or something. I reset my password and did a normal login, but thought I should flag it up here - cheers!

I have two videos about my setup (for Sony A1) - where UW stills photography is the priority use: and

https://www.sonyalpharumors.com/first-image-of-the-new-laowa-af-180mm-f4-5-1-5x-apo-and-12mm-f-2-8-zero-d/

Its MF siblings has a MFD of 18cm

The 180mm F/4.5 which goes to 1.5:1 will be the first AF macro lens for full frame from Laowa. Laowa has already said their with be other macros lenses coming including something in the 55 to 65mm range. The 12mm F/2.8 (122 degree AOV rectilinear) will also be worth a look if it has a minimum focus distance as good as the 10mm's 12cm.

Thank you so much for the offer. Fortunatelly I also have with me a couple of Inon Z330 intended for my WA dives. I am more used to the Mf-1s to macro, but today the 330s have got me out of trouble. I still prefer the Mf-1s for macro due to the size, but the 330s do the job. Best Regards.

Had a very nice, first visit to Fiji and Volivoli this month. Although the water visibility was a bit meh, the reefs look to be in nice shape with the obligator explosion of color in the soft corals. Not a lot of the bigger critters but a fair assortment of nudis and smaller fish. I found I had a LOT of nice reef pics. Travel was fairly easy with direct flight from Dallas to Fiji, followed by a 2-hour van ride. Much more relaxed then trying to reach the outter reaches of Indonesia! Camera is a Sony A7C, YS-D1/D3 strobes, 28-60mm/WWL-1B/CMC1, or Canon 8-15mm/Zen DP100 small dome.

Chris, yep, the contacts are external and attach to the charger by magnetic contacts. We tried removing the rust but the contacts, or the fitting, seems to be misshapen by the rust or some other action and the magnetic contacts won't adhere. The battery does have though a plug-in charging socket on the inside (so the non-water contact part of the battery) which is accessed by unscrewing the battery from the light head. It works fine but means taking the torch apart (not complicated) to access the charging point. That magnetic charging system does seem to be a weak point.

Hey everyone, Here is an old post from Wetpixel-- which I thought was worth porting over to the new forum for new information exchange now that these cameras are well adopted in the community. With the new firmware there is also the option to share your settings with other members, which I thought might be valuable for those wanting to participate. I just updated my A7siii to FW version 4.0 and my A1 to version 3.01-- and will share my settings once I get them setup once again. I'm working on setting up my new Sony Alpha camera's custom buttons, menus, and memory recall settings. In a search of the forum, I couldn't locate any past topics on this subject-- if anyone knows of similar threads, please let me know! I'm curious what other members here use for their custom settings. With my initial setup I used some suggestions from Colby Brown, and also downloaded his custom setup. With that post I also noticed that you can share these custom settings among users, which I would be more than happy to do if others are interested. As I've set my system up I've focused the my menu system on file management and remote shooting (menu 1), video settings (my menu 2), and photo settings (my menu 3). I'll detail my custom dial settings in another reply to help organize this thread. For my custom key settings I have prioritized the following: ISO adjustment, white balance, eye focus select, APS-C shooting, auto iso minimum shutter settings, and finder/monitor select. I still haven't modified the #6 button (on the first page), but as we all know, touch functions don't work for us underwater. I also don't have anything to replace the tracking function set, but would love to hear if anyone has made that work for them underwater. What do other settings do Sony shooters use for their camera systems?

I do too, and generally use the custom equalizer to cut off high-frequencies (which don't usually fare too well under recompression) - also make sure nothing in the red, and adjust volume accordingly (unless you're going for a take-it-to-11 heavymetal indiecore edit)

The only solution is the mf-2. The mf-1 is just fatally flawed and not generally reliable.

I love "egowank" will have to steal it from you. Bill

I remember that - and flipping mimic octopii into the air so divers could get a shot of them in blue water used to be a thing, as well. 20 years of running a dive center and I can confidently say that photographers are disproportionately (and by a huge margin) likely to ignore responsible diving practices in the interest of getting a shot and the subsequent social media egowank. Terrestrial wildlife photographers arent any better - probably worse, actually.

We list here all the 3D printing projects for our toys that have been made or tested by our members. Given the huge amount of 3D printed projects on the net that often do not yield the desired results, we will add here only the working and tested projects. Housings Nauticam NA-Z7 Housing Conversion for Nikon Z6/Z7 II Plugs & Connectors Fibre Optic Cables? Make your own.... Fiberglass Connector Fisheye Fix S100 Fiber optic connector attachment Connector for 3 mm inner diameter POF fiber optic cable Floating Arms Float arm construction in 3D printing Zoom and Focus Gears Adapter for Nauticam focus gears for the Canon 8-15mm and the Tokina 10-17mm fisheyes for use on MFT with 1x glassless adapter Nauticam Zoom Gear for Nikon 16-35mm lens (see also this post) Nauticam Zoom Gear for Nikon 24-50mm Z lens (see also this post) Nauticam Zoom Gear for Panasonic Lumix G Vario 14-42mm f/3.5-5.6 II ASPH Mega O.I.S. Canon 8-15 on Nauticam OM-1 Zoom gear using housing control Nauticam Zoom Gear for the Sony 28-60 in a Nauticam N100 housing Strobes Snoot for Inon Z330 (small version) Snoot with a diaphragm for a Retra flash Diffuser for Inon Z330 strobe Backscatter MF-1 and MF-2 strobe power knob modification Modular Bumper and Macro Reduction Ring system for Backscatter HF-1 strobes Tripods flexitray adaptor with integrated Swiss arca plate Caps Nauticam N120 Housing Male Cap Nauticam N120 Port Female Cap 67mm Cap with a Nauticam Logo Nauticam N100 Port Female Cover (Rear Port Cap) Semi Hard Port Cover for Nauticam 180mm Dome Nauticam WWL-1 lens back cap Hood and cap for Nauticam MFO-1, SMC and CMC lenses Other Parts NP-F Battery Holder Holder for Nauticam Hand Pump for Vacuum Valve Action Cam Mount for Long Clamp Carbonarm 1" Ball Mount for Suunto EON Core - Dive Computer Keldan 4 battery case