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I too have spent most of my career far from photo and scuba retail options whether in person or delivery. Many a business trip or holiday involve stopovers for gear acquisition. I feel the pain.

As for Olympus autofocus it’s pretty good. I can’t compare to other brands, but I can say that my EM1 with 60mm locks on targets fast and reliably for me. It will even do continuous AF and follow anemone fish pretty well.

As for super macro, before you assume you need the 90mm with its size and weight, look into wet diopters like the Nauticam CMC series. This shot was taken with the 60mm and an older +5 diopter that provides very close working distance and about 2x magnification:

PA140050.jpeg

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  • Hi CCRphoto I've just gone down a similar path myself and the criteria you outline are pretty common ones. A good number of members - especially we, errr, more aging ones, are looking to "downsize" a

  • OM-1 MK2 + PL 45mm F2.8 macro (90mm FF equiv.) Nikon Z5II + Nikkor 105mm F2.8 macro OM-1 MK2 + Olympus 60mm F2.8 macro (120mm FF equiv.) Nikon Z5II + Nikkor 105mm F2.8 macro Play your game: h

  • When I moved to M4/3 I could fit nearly everything for the camera system into a carry on and my hold baggage shrank by a bag. Camera system less vulnerable to baggage bashing. Camera system no longer

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3 hours ago, Nemrod said:

Being a Canon/Sony shooter the Backscatter strobes like the HF-1, MF-2 and the new Atom do not support compatible TTL for my cameras.

TTL works amost perfect on my Canon R5 and HF-1 with e-TURTLE 3 SMART TTL trigger for Canon MILC systems.

@TimG @Chris Ross definitely interested in information on the OM-1 II autofocus. I'm just wrapping up two weeks in Lembeh with my E-M10 IV with a 60 mm macro, and while I got some good to great shots, the AF continuous single point focus speed and accuracy was frustrating at times. I'm hoping the OM-1 is a significant step up, but one person was shooting the OM-1 for the first time and didn't see much improvement underwater compared to her EM-1 (not sure which model, but it is over 10 years old), and found focus tracking unusable underwater.

Edited by ACHiPo

10 hours ago, CCRphoto said:

Which Retra's have you got?

I have Retra pures - a model that was recently discontinued, slightly lower power, but it's enough with m43. You tend to shoot wider apertures because the depth of field is wider, so flash power is lower. If you get Retras - get the reduction rings! First thing I noticed after first dive was way less backscatter. It's not immune to backscatter and you still need to position strobes properly , but way less than the Z240s.

You also mentioned rectilinears, basically you are stuck with a bigger dome with them otherwise the corners go off, I have used the 12-40 in the Zen 170mm dome around Sydney and it works well, if a 24mm equivalent lens is wide enough for you.

One problem with Nauticam and the n85 ports is that some rectilinear lenses are too big to go through the port when you fit the camera/lens and you have to fit the body, then the lens from the front, then the port. The Port on Isotta is a B102, significantly bigger and it avoids this problem They also have a 6"port which will be smaller and probably OK with something like the 8-25 lens.

2 hours ago, ACHiPo said:

@TimG @Chris Ross definitely interested in information on the OM-1 II autofocus. I'm just wrapping up two weeks in Lembeh with my E-M10 IV with a 60 mm macro, and while I got some good to great shots, the AF continuous single point focus speed and accuracy was frustrating at times. I'm hoping the OM-1 is a significant step up, but one person was shooting the OM-1 for the first time and didn't see much improvement underwater compared to her EM-1 (not sure which model, but it is over 10 years old), and found focus tracking unusable underwater.

The AF with the 60mm macro is pretty decent on the OM-1. I previously shot the EM-1 MkII and prior to that the EM-5 MkII. The EM-1 MkII was a significant step up over the Em-5 mkII and the OM-1 a slight step up again. The EM-10 is a base model and I understand the AF is not as good.

The 60mm AF works really well is you are close in, it can hunt if you suddenly decide to shoot a bigger subject a meter away, particularly if contrast is low with average vis or there are particulates. But it does snap on quickly if the focus distance is similar. I have it set up to use back button AF, controlling AF with my thumb, make sit easier to control AF. The 60mm is a bit long in focal length - 120mm FF equivalent so you may find yourself backing off more than you would like. Several solutions - one is to use the Panasonic 45mm, the other is the MFO3.

11 hours ago, CCRphoto said:

I think that I will run both the 60 macro and the 90 as well - for two very different purposes. Agree that the 90 is somewhat offsetting the benefits of a M43 system a little, but it will be much nicer to use than the 180mm macro that I had years ago! The local waters really suit macro more than fisheye or wide angle, and I think that I may skip the fisheye altogether and probably go for the 12mm rectlinier as that would probably be preferable to a fisheye for underwater archaeology work.

I would definitely recommend going with 60mm at least initially. I have the 90mm macro for land use but don't take it UW. The 60mm macro goes to 1:1, but remember it's 1:1 on a m43 sensor, so it is the same framing as 2x on a full frame or film camera. I don't use diopters with it. It's quite adequate for shooting 10mm long nudis and Sydney pygmy pipehorses. The 90mm does 2x natively which 4x equivalent and covers a frame 8mm across. I don't know how good your critter spotting is, but I can't find anything that small locally - it's small and also camouflaged mostly, so really hard to find. and in some surge and you are soon swearing into your regulator even at 1x.

6 hours ago, ACHiPo said:

found focus tracking unusable underwater.

I don’t think this is just an OM issue. I don't recall anyone on Waterpixels saying tracking underwater worked well on their camera.

My gear gets its first runout next month. Fingers crossed. I’m going to be gutted if the OM AF isn’t at least as good as the venerable D500! But I think that unlikely. Will report back……

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18 hours ago, Nemrod said:

Yes, both the Max II and the Maxi have sealed battery compartments. They are both a premium strobes. The Pro Max II is about light quality, the Maxi is about power and speed. With the booster pack on the Pro Max there really is no size difference between them. In fact, the Maxi is just not all that big, no more than the HF-1 or those gigantic Ikelite strobes.

Being a Canon/Sony shooter the Backscatter strobes like the HF-1, MF-2 and the new Atom do not support compatible TTL for my cameras. The Retra does. For an OM system if you are trying to be as small as possible and still have power and speed the Atom might be the ticket.

In the box with my Retra Maxi, there was a card that simply said, "let there be light" and trust me on this if nothing else, there is LIGHT!

I am prepping for the Maldives, heading to the scuba pool to do some testing, trying to decide if I take this Sony or my other Canon. Sorry for the couch potato pic but I am about to pack it in the bag for the pool. Two Retra Maxi, WWL, Nauticam NA-6400. Warming diffusers. So you can see what two Maxi strobes look like on an APS-C Nauticam.

IMG_2099.jpeg

Many thanks - that picture does give me a really good idea of the size of the Maxis - probably they are a little bigger than I was expecting, but if they are neutrally buoyant then that will be fine.

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16 hours ago, humu9679 said:

I was about to add that the Backscatter's HF series is small, great battery life, and that you may use high speed sync with the right flash triggers. Great for macro, and some have used it pretty successfully on larger subjects (see Phil Rudin and Dave Hicks forays into using these flashes). The OM-1 ii I believe already has an x-sync speed of 1/250th, which puts it right up there with most.

A couple of other things to note - again, lens size! Many APS-c lenses are sized right for their systems, but oftentimes the lenses are large which happens with Canons and Nikons. It’s like hauling around full frame cameras with their added size and weight.

Also, I was thinking about your desire to have a monitor. They are nice to look at, and I like having one to shoot video topside, but have you considered just composing on the standard screen? I have also tried using 45 and 90 degree viewfinders - great in some instances - but again, these add bulk and, in my view, are a throwback to film and DSLR days when live view was horrible.

I'm kind of getting the feeling that APS-C isn't really a middle ground - its almost a FF lens paired with a downscaled sensor in a slightly smaller camera body - which kind of leaves my wondering why?

I think that really one needs to look at either M43 or FF - not a compromised compromise in the middle - if that makes sense? Some will probably argue differently.

The need for the monitor is mainly due to my neck - I can only tilt my head back about 25 degrees, and so doing things like shooting macro on the bottom just isn't possible as I just wouldn't be able to see the standard screen from a viewable angle.

  • Author
16 hours ago, Troporobo said:

I too have spent most of my career far from photo and scuba retail options whether in person or delivery. Many a business trip or holiday involve stopovers for gear acquisition. I feel the pain.

As for Olympus autofocus it’s pretty good. I can’t compare to other brands, but I can say that my EM1 with 60mm locks on targets fast and reliably for me. It will even do continuous AF and follow anemone fish pretty well.

As for super macro, before you assume you need the 90mm with its size and weight, look into wet diopters like the Nauticam CMC series. This shot was taken with the 60mm and an older +5 diopter that provides very close working distance and about 2x magnification:

PA140050.jpeg

OK that is an option too! I've got to get used to this whole idea of wet-mateable diopters etc - we didn't really have them available to us way back when.

  • Author
13 hours ago, ACHiPo said:

@TimG @Chris Ross definitely interested in information on the OM-1 II autofocus. I'm just wrapping up two weeks in Lembeh with my E-M10 IV with a 60 mm macro, and while I got some good to great shots, the AF continuous single point focus speed and accuracy was frustrating at times. I'm hoping the OM-1 is a significant step up, but one person was shooting the OM-1 for the first time and didn't see much improvement underwater compared to her EM-1 (not sure which model, but it is over 10 years old), and found focus tracking unusable underwater.

Was the OM-1 she had the OM-1 MkII?

3 minutes ago, CCRphoto said:



The need for the monitor is mainly due to my neck - I can only tilt my head back about 25 degrees, and so doing things like shooting macro on the bottom just isn't possible as I just wouldn't be able to see the standard screen from a viewable angle.

45 degree viewfinder could be an alternative. Inmo the EVF:s in the new mirrorless cameras is a huge wow!

Let’s pray for your stocks to sky rocket 🙏🏻

uwportfolio.jpg

  • Author
10 hours ago, Chris Ross said:

I have Retra pures - a model that was recently discontinued, slightly lower power, but it's enough with m43. You tend to shoot wider apertures because the depth of field is wider, so flash power is lower. If you get Retras - get the reduction rings! First thing I noticed after first dive was way less backscatter. It's not immune to backscatter and you still need to position strobes properly , but way less than the Z240s.

You also mentioned rectilinears, basically you are stuck with a bigger dome with them otherwise the corners go off, I have used the 12-40 in the Zen 170mm dome around Sydney and it works well, if a 24mm equivalent lens is wide enough for you.

One problem with Nauticam and the n85 ports is that some rectilinear lenses are too big to go through the port when you fit the camera/lens and you have to fit the body, then the lens from the front, then the port. The Port on Isotta is a B102, significantly bigger and it avoids this problem They also have a 6"port which will be smaller and probably OK with something like the 8-25 lens.

Some really good information there - will definitely add the reduction rings to the list!

A 24mm equivalent should be fine for most things underwater archaeology - amphoras etc - anything bigger will be covered by photogrammetry usually.

Interesting what you have said about the need to fit some lenses from the front with the Nauticam housing - I guess it would be OK to do but would prefer not to!

  • Author
11 hours ago, Chris Ross said:

The AF with the 60mm macro is pretty decent on the OM-1. I previously shot the EM-1 MkII and prior to that the EM-5 MkII. The EM-1 MkII was a significant step up over the Em-5 mkII and the OM-1 a slight step up again. The EM-10 is a base model and I understand the AF is not as good.

The 60mm AF works really well is you are close in, it can hunt if you suddenly decide to shoot a bigger subject a meter away, particularly if contrast is low with average vis or there are particulates. But it does snap on quickly if the focus distance is similar. I have it set up to use back button AF, controlling AF with my thumb, make sit easier to control AF. The 60mm is a bit long in focal length - 120mm FF equivalent so you may find yourself backing off more than you would like. Several solutions - one is to use the Panasonic 45mm, the other is the MFO3.

Good to know that the AF is good OM-1 MkII - one less thing to be concerned about!

I'm actually considering the Panasonic 45mm instead of the OM 60mm for that and a couple of other reasons - it seems like a better way to go.

  • Author
11 hours ago, Chris Ross said:

I would definitely recommend going with 60mm at least initially. I have the 90mm macro for land use but don't take it UW. The 60mm macro goes to 1:1, but remember it's 1:1 on a m43 sensor, so it is the same framing as 2x on a full frame or film camera. I don't use diopters with it. It's quite adequate for shooting 10mm long nudis and Sydney pygmy pipehorses. The 90mm does 2x natively which 4x equivalent and covers a frame 8mm across. I don't know how good your critter spotting is, but I can't find anything that small locally - it's small and also camouflaged mostly, so really hard to find. and in some surge and you are soon swearing into your regulator even at 1x.

I'm very fortunate here that I have a really nice protected bay with heavy very white sand - visibility is usually excellent, and usually no surge. Get some small shrimps and sea spiders here - the spiders aren'ty too bad to spot as they are bright yellow.

Have to be careful when swearing while on CCR - everyone around can hear you!

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1 hour ago, Christian K said:

45 degree viewfinder could be an alternative. Inmo the EVF:s in the new mirrorless cameras is a huge wow!

Let’s pray for your stocks to sky rocket 🙏🏻

uwportfolio.jpg

Stocks went up another 5% today on very big volume for this stock - it has basically been a sleeper/under the radar for a long time and completely ignored or unknown by most - partly due to a lack of marketing by the company, but a major rerate is definitely underway now.

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On 8/1/2026 at 6:12 PM, Christian K said:

If I where buying today and wanted something small and high-level w/o ”breaking” the bank, I’d take a serious look at Nikons new little fullframe z5ii. Throw it in a Nauticam with the 24-50 and put a wwl-c on it and you have a very tiny package with a serious punch. For macro there’s the ”new” z105 lens. Smaller than a lot of cropped sensor alternatives.

uwportfolio.jpg

Am giving the Nikon Z5 ii a bit more thought now after reading what you said about sensor size etc. and watching that review. Lots to think about!

7 minutes ago, CCRphoto said:

Am giving the Nikon Z5 ii a bit more thought now after reading what you said about sensor size etc. and watching that review. Lots to think about!

Matt and Alex are on here from time to time. Perhaps they can help if you have detailed questions about shooting that particular (z5ii+Nauticam) set-up. It will be a 7000-8000ish US$ investment which is money, but not a lot in the UW photo business tbh. But I heard mines are doing well down under 😁

uwportfolio.jpg

The Holy Trinity of underwater photography:

  1. Strobes

  2. Camera and housing

  3. Lens and accommodating ports (including water contact optics)

Each is equally important. I think that sometimes strobes are like an afterthought. A lens that can accomplish your shooting style/vision and strobes that can light up the frame are at least as important as what camera body and housing and sensor size is chosen.

On 8/2/2026 at 9:23 AM, CCRphoto said:

I think that a monitor is definitely the way to go.

BTW I saw your signature - have you heard anything about that training fatality in S.C.?

I have seen the reports on the fatality, but no details yet that I am aware of. Unfortunately, there are more Public Safety Diving fatalities during training than on calls. Part of that is we have to do a lot of training to keep our skills sharp since we don't get that many calls (which is a good thing), but that means most of our exposure is during training. Many of them seem to be medical issues, but I don't know about this particular case. She seemed to be young and fit, so she doesn't fit the profile for a cardiac event. I will be watching to see if they report what happened. Sorry for the thread hijack.

7 hours ago, CCRphoto said:

The need for the monitor is mainly due to my neck - I can only tilt my head back about 25 degrees, and so doing things like shooting macro on the bottom just isn't possible as I just wouldn't be able to

Would a 45-degree finder not work for you? They are brilliant for macro and much smaller than a monitor. Although that said, the Nauticam one is surprisingly large!

1 hour ago, TimG said:

Would a 45-degree finder not work for you? They are brilliant for macro and much smaller than a monitor. Although that said, the Nauticam one is surprisingly large!

They also provide the ability to have diopter corrections built in so for those of us who use glasses, you can see what you camera is doing without sort of squinting and thinking you know what your settings are or how the picture looks. So +1 for 45 degree (surprisingly large) viewfinders.

15 hours ago, CCRphoto said:

Was the OM-1 she had the OM-1 MkII?

Yes she has the OM-1 ii. And she was comparing to the E-M1 ii. She echoed Chris's comments that she only saw a slight improvement in autofocus underwater with the OM-1 ii over the E-M1 ii. She also was unable to get satisfactory results using CAF tracking underwater, although we both hypothesized that is likely due to the large amount of particulates in the water in Lembeh (vis was only 20-40 feet). With all the hoopla about AF tracking on the OM-1 being fantastic for fisheyes, etc., it seems in clearer water it might be a significant improvement.

14 hours ago, CCRphoto said:

Good to know that the AF is good OM-1 MkII - one less thing to be concerned about!

I'm actually considering the Panasonic 45mm instead of the OM 60mm for that and a couple of other reasons - it seems like a better way to go.

I shot the P/L 45 mm a few dives in Lembeh, including one blackwater dive. It seems to be the ideal focal length for blackwater.

I liked the 45 mm on daylight dives. It did not focus quite as quickly as the 60, but on blackwater it was very frustrating. I missed several shots because the 45mm (on my E-M10) just wouldn't focus. On shots where I got focus, however, the image quality is at least as good as the 60 and 30. Maybe it will work better on an OM-1?

The 30mm on blackwater worked great. At least as snappy as the 60, and with the ability to focus almost to the port it was great for subjects that got very close.

12 hours ago, Nemrod said:

The Holy Trinity of underwater photography:

  1. Strobes

  2. Camera and housing

  3. Lens and accommodating ports (including water contact optics)

Each is equally important. I think that sometimes strobes are like an afterthought. A lens that can accomplish your shooting style/vision and strobes that can light up the frame are at least as important as what camera body and housing and sensor size is chosen.

This is why I bought HF-1s that were >2x what my starter camera and housing cost. I definitely am happy with the purchase--they continue to deliver consistently which makes me not hate their size and weight so much.😎

Edited by ACHiPo

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