Hi,
i just got my hands on an unused pair of Z330s Type 1 for a "ok" price. I wonder if it is possible to change to front to the newer fly eye lens? Did anybody do it and does anybody know where i can get the spare parts?

 

Cheers,

Michael

5 hours ago, Michael said:

Hi,
i just got my hands on an unused pair of Z330s Type 1 for a "ok" price. I wonder if it is possible to change to front to the newer fly eye lens? Did anybody do it and does anybody know where i can get the spare parts?

 

Cheers,

Michael

There is no need and no advantage in doing this. I have both types and don't notice the difference or have a preference. Enjoy them as is, these are great stobes.

On 12/25/2023 at 9:49 PM, Dave_Hicks said:

There is no need and no advantage in doing this. I have both types and don't notice the difference or have a preference. Enjoy them as is, these are great stobes.

Probably a stupid question given what you've already answered, but I've recent purchased a second Z330 to pair with the solo that I'd been diving with most of last year, but the old one is Type 1 and the new one is Type 2. Your answer above makes me think you'll say it won't matter, but I'm curious if there's anything to think about when using these two strobes together for wide angle shooting.

No, i seriously doubt if you will be able to tell a difference.

You can also add a diffuser.

My results when using the Z330 Type II compared to Z240 and Z330 Type I were quite different. For me I found a noticeable difference in light distribution V. the older models while maintaining the same amount of power. The light was more well controlled across the frame while having a softer look.

 

Just looking at the strobes side by side it is easy to see how harsh spots should be better controlled. If as some suggest adding a diffuser will resolve the issue with the original version then how would you assume the Fly-eye would not make a difference. The diffuser also defeats the purpose of going from Z240 to Z330 because it takes away the extra stop of light gain.

 

I am all for getting a bargain but to assume the Z330 will be apples to apples with the Z330 Type II is just wrong. I will be very interested to see what Inon has as a Z330 II replacement.

 

For context I owned the first two Inon Z220's imported into the US and have owned Inon strobes ever since. My Z-330 II review is in issue #122, back issues at uwpmag.com.

 

 

 

Quick question, maybe off-topic: How is the pilot light affected by the fly eye microprisms ? Is it weaker, less defined or is it similar between the two models?

2 minutes ago, Klaus said:

Quick question, maybe off-topic: How is the pilot light affected by the fly eye microprisms ? Is it weaker, less defined or is it similar between the two models?

Good question. There must be quite an impact for snoot users, I’d have thought. 

3 hours ago, TimG said:

Good question. There must be quite an impact for snoot users, I’d have thought. 

The best possible solution for snoot use with a Z-330 or Z-240 is probably to use a different strobe I think unless someone develops a snoot with a prism to centre the beam in the snoot.😂  A lot of people add a Backsactter mini flash to their setup rather than try and deal with snooting a strobe with an off centre pilot light.

 

But seriously I don't use the lights on my INONs, they can't illuminate your subject for you as the have a narrow beam, the first rule of UW strobe shooting after all is don't point your strobe at the subject (unless snooting of course). 

4 hours ago, Phil Rudin said:

My results when using the Z330 Type II compared to Z240 and Z330 Type I were quite different. For me I found a noticeable difference in light distribution V. the older models while maintaining the same amount of power. The light was more well controlled across the frame while having a softer look.

 

Just looking at the strobes side by side it is easy to see how harsh spots should be better controlled. If as some suggest adding a diffuser will resolve the issue with the original version then how would you assume the Fly-eye would not make a difference. The diffuser also defeats the purpose of going from Z240 to Z330 because it takes away the extra stop of light gain.

 

I am all for getting a bargain but to assume the Z330 will be apples to apples with the Z330 Type II is just wrong. I will be very interested to see what Inon has as a Z330 II replacement.

 

For context I owned the first two Inon Z220's imported into the US and have owned Inon strobes ever since. My Z-330 II review is in issue #122, back issues at uwpmag.com.

 

 

 

A question Phil, you are comparing the light quality with the bare flash, If they both have diffusers like you would if using the 4600K diffusers for blue water wide angle work, is there much difference in light quality?

6 hours ago, Phil Rudin said:

My results when using the Z330 Type II compared to Z240 and Z330 Type I were quite different. For me I found a noticeable difference in light distribution V. the older models while maintaining the same amount of power. The light was more well controlled across the frame while having a softer look.

 

Just looking at the strobes side by side it is easy to see how harsh spots should be better controlled. If as some suggest adding a diffuser will resolve the issue with the original version then how would you assume the Fly-eye would not make a difference. The diffuser also defeats the purpose of going from Z240 to Z330 because it takes away the extra stop of light gain.

 

I am all for getting a bargain but to assume the Z330 will be apples to apples with the Z330 Type II is just wrong. I will be very interested to see what Inon has as a Z330 II replacement.

 

For context I owned the first two Inon Z220's imported into the US and have owned Inon strobes ever since. My Z-330 II review is in issue #122, back issues at uwpmag.com.

 

 

 

Apparently, Phil can tell a difference between the two. Perhaps in a swimming pool test? My experience using both type I and type II on 100's of dives is that I can't tell from the photos that I take which strobe was used. I never use the diffusers on the 330s. 

 

In any case, neither of these strobes is being made any more. If you want or need one, I suggest you take the bird in hand, be it type I or type II.

First of all I have used the Inon Z-220, Z-240, Z330 with upgrades line of strobes on over 4000 dives around the world, so not just in the pool although you can learn a lot testing in the pool but only as a starting point for real world use.

 

Regarding the focus light power is the same as type I and how it works with snoots has more to do with the snoot than the strobe. Some favor a focus/modeling light which is centered in the middle of the strobe while others are more forgiving. 

 

The Z330 type I actually has the fly-eye coating directly over the flash tubes. The reason this was changed for type II is better coverage and less hot spots. 

 

 

Does anybody use Z-330's with dome "PRO" diffusers? Are they worth the price compared to the stock diffusers that come bundled with Z-330?

 

https://www.uwcamerastore.com/dome-diffuser-pro-for-inon-z-330

 

I had a chance to test a pair of Retras last summer and one thing I noticed is that they produce a much more even and pleasing light than my Z-330. Light from Z-330 was much harsher and prone to hotspots, that's why I need to be much more precise and careful when positioning them. So yeah, one option would be to upgrade to Retra or OneUW, but if these "PRO" diffusers would soften the light and made it more even, I'd then rather stay with my trusty old Inons than spend a small fortune on new strobes.

On 1/28/2024 at 12:36 PM, Andrej Oblak said:

Does anybody use Z-330's with dome "PRO" diffusers? Are they worth the price compared to the stock diffusers that come bundled with Z-330?

 

https://www.uwcamerastore.com/dome-diffuser-pro-for-inon-z-330

 

I had a chance to test a pair of Retras last summer and one thing I noticed is that they produce a much more even and pleasing light than my Z-330. Light from Z-330 was much harsher and prone to hotspots, that's why I need to be much more precise and careful when positioning them. So yeah, one option would be to upgrade to Retra or OneUW, but if these "PRO" diffusers would soften the light and made it more even, I'd then rather stay with my trusty old Inons than spend a small fortune on new strobes.

I have a set of these for my Z330's but have yet to use them. I'm going to try them next month on a Cayman trip. 

1 hour ago, Buddha said:

I have a set of these for my Z330's but have yet to use them. I'm going to try them next month on a Cayman trip. 

Very interesting!  I haven’t seen these before.  Please do let us know what you think.  Like @Andrej Oblak I’d rather keep my Z-330s a little longer before dropping $3K on a pair of Retra Pro Max w/ superchargers.  

The frosted element will make a difference at close range where you previously would have seen the elements in the image 

at long rangeI doubt very much it would make any difference 

I got the "pro" diffusers in mail today and I did a quick comparison.

 

First a strobe without a diffuser:

 

With a stock white diffuser and same power settings:

 

With a "pro" diffuser and same power settings:

 

With a "pro" diffuser and +1 stop of power:

 

With a "pro" diffuser and +2 stops of power:

 

Not a professional comparison but I hope this helps someone. I'll test it underwater soon hopefully.

 

PS.: ignore my fridge and a part of my living room 🙂 This was the largest white wall that I could find in my apartment

As I am rarely diving and taking pictures of large white walls, I think I would go with the first setup. No diffuser. You lose a lot of power with the diffuser for what? Slightly smoother light coverage? I don't see how that will have a significant impact on real world, messy organic scenery.

8 hours ago, Dave_Hicks said:

As I am rarely diving and taking pictures of large white walls, I think I would go with the first setup. No diffuser. You lose a lot of power with the diffuser for what? Slightly smoother light coverage? I don't see how that will have a significant impact on real world, messy organic scenery.

Plus lens vignette anyway and normally there is water in the corners

So I just got back from a trip to Little Cayman and used the "Pro diffusers " with my Inon Z330 on both the type 1 and type 2 strobes. I didn't see any difference between using them with either the type 1 or 2. I did really like the results I got from them though. I shot them at reefs, fish and stingrays over white sand and they really did make a nice even flash. However, I did noticed that they are about 2 stops of light loss. Now in most conditions thats not really a problem but in the clear water with strong ambient light I really had the run the strobes up to get good results against the ambient light. Now I could have lowered the ISO and aperture but I like to have more of a natural water color. But overall I'll be using these a lot in the future. 

9 hours ago, Buddha said:

So I just got back from a trip to Little Cayman and used the "Pro diffusers " with my Inon Z330 on both the type 1 and type 2 strobes. I didn't see any difference between using them with either the type 1 or 2. I did really like the results I got from them though. I shot them at reefs, fish and stingrays over white sand and they really did make a nice even flash. However, I did noticed that they are about 2 stops of light loss. Now in most conditions thats not really a problem but in the clear water with strong ambient light I really had the run the strobes up to get good results against the ambient light. Now I could have lowered the ISO and aperture but I like to have more of a natural water color. But overall I'll be using these a lot in the future. 

The reality is that the shape of the diffuser in wide angle plays pretty much no role. Things are far light is becoming more a point source. When your diffuser gets more opaque the light is simply having less hot spot an issue Inon has always had because of the two elements and I guess they want to solve with the frosted front

If you shoot on white sand potential hot spots become more important however considering water has a natural scatter effect you can do quite a lot just by dialing down the power and positioning the strobes so that the light does not reflect directly

 

On 12/26/2023 at 1:05 AM, Michael said:

Hi,
i just got my hands on an unused pair of Z330s Type 1 for a "ok" price. I wonder if it is possible to change to front to the newer fly eye lens? Did anybody do it and does anybody know where i can get the spare parts?

 

Cheers,

Michael

I am not sure if this question has been answered. The upgrade Z330 Type 1 to Type 2 can be done by an authorized Inon service center. I paid 119 € for the upgrade in 2021 (uwcamerastore.com).