Skip to content

New Sony Fish Eye

Featured Replies

On 10/14/2026 at 10:52 AM, Suds said:

Considering there isn't a current TC option:

  • Would shooting in crop mode allow you to use the entire zoom range of 8-14mm without vignetting?

  • If this is the case - would shooting in crop mode be a bad idea on a high res camera? (if only as an option when you wanted the zoom).

So would APSC mode give a reasonable bit of flexibility whilst diving with the new Sony 8-14? Or is this a bad idea

Yes, I think it is a good idea. I do what you describe with the APS-C mode with a Sony A7RV and Canon 8-15mm either with or without a 1.4X teleconverter. If you use M lossless compression mode it gives 26MP in full frame and then if you switch to APS-C it still gives 26MP.

If you use the full 61 MP mode note that the crop mode has no benefit compared to just cropping afterwards. Personally though, I prefer to switch between the FF and crop mode as it helps framing. I have this set up as an option on the function menu button.

If no teleconverter is used, and the APS-C mode on the A7RV or VI is being used, a zoom function or zoom ring is not really needed... may as well leave the lens on 14mm. Others may have a different opinion but I don't think fisheye shots can make use of the 61MP anyway, except potentially in exceptionally clear water, just because of the effect on image sharpness of that water.

The 61MP full frame has the same pixel size as A6700 and slightly larger than OM1 so I don't see anything wrong with making use of the versatility rather than feeling it is necessary to always use all those pixels.

Sea & Sea
9 hours ago, Architeuthis said:

What one can say is, that cropping from a FF sensor will give identical results as using the lens on cameras with smaller sensors that have the pixel counts below:

#1.: Using a 8-14(15)mm fisheye lens on FF and cropping 1.4x to APS-C gives 26 Mpixel (in case of Sony A7R5) and 28 Mpixel (for A7R6), etc...

#2.: When cropping 2x the pixel count becomes simply a quarter, i.e. 15,3 Mpixel for A7R5 and 16,7 Mpixel for A7R6.

=> I believe it is a save bet that using the zoom FE lens on an APS-C camera gives the same IQ compared to an image from high resolution FF, that has been cropped to APS-C size (A6700, for comparison, has 26 Mpixel).

=> I am not sure about cropping down to MFT sensor size. 15-16 Mpixels are, however, still not so bad...

The question is, how much IQ can be restored by the use of TCs (in case TCs are available) in comparison to cropping, when 1.4x or 2x TCs are considered...

I would be very interested to see such a determination and comparison of imaging quality under standardized studio conditions (crop vs. TC), in case somebody would bother to do the tests...🙂

This is true, though of course MP is not the full story, the sensor can be tuned differently to optimise noise versus dynamic range etc. at different sensor sizes. I'm sure there is some compositional benefit to framing the image when the the part you are cropping out is not visible as happens when you zoom, probably allows you to fine tune your distance from subject as it's too easy not to get close enough with a fisheye and perhaps this would be less apparent if judging the shot from the full frame.

16 hours ago, John E said:

Yes, I think it is a good idea. I do what you describe with the APS-C mode with a Sony A7RV and Canon 8-15mm either with or without a 1.4X teleconverter. If you use M lossless compression mode it gives 26MP in full frame and then if you switch to APS-C it still gives 26MP.

If you use the full 61 MP mode note that the crop mode has no benefit compared to just cropping afterwards. Personally though, I prefer to switch between the FF and crop mode as it helps framing. I have this set up as an option on the function menu button.

If no teleconverter is used, and the APS-C mode on the A7RV or VI is being used, a zoom function or zoom ring is not really needed... may as well leave the lens on 14mm. Others may have a different opinion but I don't think fisheye shots can make use of the 61MP anyway, except potentially in exceptionally clear water, just because of the effect on image sharpness of that water.

The 61MP full frame has the same pixel size as A6700 and slightly larger than OM1 so I don't see anything wrong with making use of the versatility rather than feeling it is necessary to always use all those pixels.

How is the IQ of photos made in the APS-C crop mode compared to photos using the entire sensor, but with 1.4x TC?

For Marelux system users the Sony FE 8-14mm zoom gear will be #51117. Used with a 20mm extension for 140, 210 and 230mm dome ports.

The Marelux 140mm port already has the removable bayonetting sunshade introduced four years ago at DEMA with a retail price of $1180.00 in the US.

IMG_6776.jpg

1 hour ago, Phil Rudin said:

For Marelux system users the Sony FE 8-14mm zoom gear will be #51117. Used with a 20mm extension for 140, 210 and 230mm dome ports.

The Marelux 140mm port already has the removable bayonetting sunshade introduced four years ago at DEMA with a retail price of $1180.00 in the US.

IMG_6776.jpg

Very snug!

That is going to require a clever port cap solution or that glass is going have a short shelf life

13 minutes ago, Dave_Hicks said:

Very snug!

That is going to require a clever port cap solution or that glass is going have a short shelf life

As you may or may not know the sunshade needs to be removed from ANY port to use the 8mm end of the lens. The photo shows the shade removed. The photo below shows how I take the system into the water. In the water cover is removed and slipped over my arm. If I want to shoot the 8mm circular fisheye end of the lens I then remove the shade.

IMG_6804.jpeg

5 hours ago, Architeuthis said:

How is the IQ of photos made in the APS-C crop mode compared to photos using the entire sensor, but with 1.4x TC?

I can't notice a difference in everyday use but I haven't done a detailed analysis (bearing in mind the visibility here is mostly 10 to 20m). As an example of the trade-offs involved, this is my thought process for a trip I am doing to Tonga next week. The small inter-island plane allows 15kg.

1.      I have ruled out the WWL-1B because I don't think it will be wide enough and there is the issue of a wet lens.

2.      Even if I had one, I would not like to take a dry conversion port as I will be spending 7 hours a day getting in and out of a small boat and do not want anything heavy, bulky or fragile.

3.      A pure fisheye on a smaller sensor without cropping ability would be restrictive as I would be very dependent on getting close. A zoomable fisheye on a smaller sensor would be fine if I had one.

4.      A fixed fisheye with a 61MP sensor is an option because I am satisfied with cropping or using APS-C mode. Since Sony previously had no fisheye, the only lens I know of is the older/discontinued/cheap Sigma 15mm f2.8 fisheye on an EF-E adapter which sounds like it is ok between f11 and f16? This looks like a great budget option and, including an adapter, is close to the size of the Sony 8-14mm and very slightly heavier.

5.      So, I am taking my Canon 8-15mm and will take the teleconverter. I am not convinced the teleconverter helps image quality versus the bare lens cropped, but I can also get the combination of crop and teleconverter if I need to, although I don't expect such photos to be super sharp due to the distance to the subjects. The teleconverter adds something like 200-300 grams I think with it's own weigh and the 20mm extra extension.

6.      I am taking my 8 inch acrylic dome rather than smaller glass dome because the housing is neutrally buoyant without floats (I have wheel weights on the sunshade to stop the dome tipping upwards too much) and I am hoping to get some split photos. The slightly extra drag is offset by the rig not being negatively buoyant.

So the conclusion is that I am happy to take the Canon 8-15mm with teleconverter but will sometimes not use the teleconverter. I am tempted to buy a Sony 8-14mm, better still ask my wife for it for Xmas! My unknown is how much better that is than the Sigma 15mm ff 2.8 which is less than a fifth of the price, but I suspect sharpness and autofocus are much better with the Sony. I am happy Sony brought out this lens!

On 10/16/2026 at 4:59 AM, John E said:

Yes, I think it is a good idea. I do what you describe with the APS-C mode with a Sony A7RV and Canon 8-15mm either with or without a 1.4X teleconverter. If you use M lossless compression mode it gives 26MP in full frame and then if you switch to APS-C it still gives 26MP.

If you use the full 61 MP mode note that the crop mode has no benefit compared to just cropping afterwards. Personally though, I prefer to switch between the FF and crop mode as it helps framing. I have this set up as an option on the function menu button.

If no teleconverter is used, and the APS-C mode on the A7RV or VI is being used, a zoom function or zoom ring is not really needed... may as well leave the lens on 14mm. Others may have a different opinion but I don't think fisheye shots can make use of the 61MP anyway, except potentially in exceptionally clear water, just because of the effect on image sharpness of that water.

The 61MP full frame has the same pixel size as A6700 and slightly larger than OM1 so I don't see anything wrong with making use of the versatility rather than feeling it is necessary to always use all those pixels.

Thanks for the reply John. Can you help me understand - why does the A7R6 on 61MP mode give no benefit on cropped mode? will it not give you a bit of the zoom range without vignetting?

Yes, crop mode does give a zoom range without chopping the corners, but it is because the camera is using the middle of the sensor.

In other words, you have the maximum rectangular fisheye coverage possible when the camera is on full frame and lens at14mm - no zoom-in capability because you already at the max - no zoom-out without chopping corners. If you want more "zoomed in" yes you can use APS-C mode from 9.5mm (14mm FF equivalent) up to 21mm FF equivalent, but the camera is apparently just using an APS-C sized part of the sensor, which you can achieve just the same by cropping the full frame image later.

So, APS-C mode lets you compose what you will end up with and you can't make it wider later. Full frame mode might give you a smaller subject in the frame when you take the shot but will give you cropping room (e.g. maybe the subject was moving fast and is off centre)... either option gives you the same number of pixels.

Hope this makes sense!

Edited by John E
Clarification

On 10/7/2026 at 2:13 PM, nickrileyuk said:

Apologies if this has already been discussed elsewhere, but does anyone have any experience shooting with the new Sony Fish Eye? Thoughts?

I’m expecting to get mine around mid-November, along with the Marelux extension ring and zoom gear. I’ll be testing it with both the 140mm and 230mm domes to see which works best underwater.

I just couldn’t resist getting this lens! I’m currently shooting with the Canon 8-15mm fisheye using the Sigma MC-11 adapter. While the image quality is excellent, the communication between the lens and camera isn’t ideal, especially when switching to video.

I’m really hoping the new Sony will offer better autofocus, video performance, and hopefully even better image quality than the Canon.

Happy to share my experience once I’ve had a chance to dive with it!

There seems to be a lot of interest in this new Sony lens - as someone that use to shoot the Canon 8-15 & liked it for some dive areas, I am looking forward to seeing & hearing the results once the new Sony lens gets wet before pulling the trigger myself - I also wonder if the Nauticam FCP could be adapted as a possible dome since it has a big field of view

If you have no intention on shooting at the 8mm end and using crop vs the TC I'd be looking hard at the 7Artisans 10mm MAX.

Edited by Grantmac

Scuba.com

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.