Davide DB

I was interested in their 7" monitor which is a behemoth so I asked them some info. Here their reply: Depth rating and hdmi cable position are huge deal breakers for me. The 5.5" has a more ergonomic hdmi position but same weird depth rating. The only meaningful review is this but I guess you saw I already. If you are still alive, at the end, he speaks about a couple of weird things on the function buttons that could be solved via fw upgrade but who knows 🤷

Thanks for your report. Looking forward to see your photos.

Link added to our DIY encyclopedia

I also switched to MK2, and I must say that it still defends itself well. One of the longest running cameras ever. Let's have a buying group to upgrade to the GH7 🤣 Great video and great return!

Hi Caolla, I assure you that no one deleted your post. There must have been some technical problem in sending the message. Ciao

I don't understand the meaning. Why don't you shoot plain photos?

I see @Isaac Szabo got something to do with you photos... 😈

Which depth and lens used for these photos? Thanks

For science experiments I made 15-day timelapses with specific equipment. Completely different purposes and problems. For an underwater video, a short timelapse could be a great idea to complete the video editing but you have to keep in mind a few things. A tripod is essential. For a Gopro, there are great deals on Aliexpress, otherwise Flexarm has inexpensive tripods perfect for a Gopro. Even a classic Gorillapod is fine. With battery life in mind, you need to choose subjects/phenomena that will resolve in a half hour at most. Plan for a dedicated dive. Good subjects might be urchins, starfish, sea cucumbers and ophiurans. it's amazing how fast they move! I do not recommend an Astrospartus because they are very deep 😉 Even ascidians such as classic sea tomatoes in a tide pool could excellent BBC style subjects. Although they are shot with a GH5, our member @Alex B has some excellent examples in some of his old videos. If shooting below 10 meters consider an artificial light. You can also place it on a separate tripod or mud stick. If you hold it with one arm on the Gopro tray, make sure the tripod is stable and heavy enough. For Gopro settings just apply the same rules for land timelapses. Gopro has the option to get directly video files. For full light are OK, if you works in low light situations maybe a photo timelapse is better. If you choose a video timelapse go for 5.3K so you can crop and add some fake movement in post. Where do you dive? Ciao

Terrific report Pietro and beautiful photos! I wish I find such photo gear space where I dive... Thanks for sharing.

Martin, did you probe the shark's belly for pregnancy? 🙂

Welcome aboard Joerg! A lot of ex wetpixelers here 🙂 Terrific photo of the eternal ice!

Jpeg?

Thank you Reefrunner and welcome aboard! I hope you will complete your renaissance here 😉

If you search on the net, you will find that it's the most wanted part. Unfortunately you are forced to buy a new housing. Is it an original housing? A possible solution is using the "skeleton door" which comes with some original Gopro housing kits. It's the back door (only the frame) which allow you to use the touch screen. This skeleton door has the same gasket that could be used as spare part. IDK what the gasket is used for. Good luck

Are you in a village with a diving center? Do you recommend it? Several of my friends told me about the same problem with waste and especially plastic. And unfortunately where it seems to be not there is because it is discreetly burned

Marelux housing USA price 3400 USD Europe price 4000 Euro Ouch!

Has anyone ever tried it? I read that it has a 90° FOV but nothing more. As with their wide angle sibling they don't give full information. Does anyone know the focus range? https://www.aoi-uw.com/aoi-ucl-03.html

Nauticam presented its housing for the Canon R5 II. Pre-orders are now open. https://www.nauticam.com/collections/mirrorless-il-camera-housings/products/na-r5ii-housing-for-canon-eos-r5ii-camera

Terrific idea!!! Thanks Dave!

Okay let's take stock of the various options available. Closed-cell PVC For recreational diving it must have a density of at least 40 kg/m3 (2.5 lb/ft3). In underwater photo stores it is quite expensive and in bulk it is cheap but sells only in sheets of at least 1 sq m. Possible solution find free scraps in boatyards. It's commonly uses for boat deck structures. Fishing net floats These are also mostly made from closed-cell pvc. For recreational diving, more or less all are fine. They are really inexpensive but usually ugly. All pvc foam can be cut out, wooed, painted and drilled to your liking. Just a short while ago I was telling to a friend 😉 that I was going to buy them from a big Italian manufacturer and instead they sent me a box of second-rate ones for free (they sell them by the hundreds in bags). They are perfect. These are for trawl nets and last up to 250 meters. You can adjust the central hole via a holesaw. Then commercially there are ready-made floats for underwater photography. The ubiquitous Stix or cheaper floats from other brands. For example the ones from 10Bar that are also very stylish.

I tried with similar floats but at 30/40 meters my camera was an anchor I tried Stix floats and they were good up to 40 m, below they crashed like marshmallows 🙂

Hello, Damn imperial measures!!! Maybe some members are more familiar with the imperial system than I am, but from my calculations these are super soft and cost a lot too. If you haven't found them free as scrap. you better buy the Stix or the 10Bar floats that are very cheap.

With such a small sensor there is little to do except perhaps act with computational photography algorithms. I would say that the latest Insta Ace Pro and DJI have much more advanced NR algorithms than the Gopro. However when you raise the ISO and the noise reduction algorithm comes into play, you lose a lot of detail. People's faces in the tunnel for example. Watch these videos in full screen maybe on a 4k monitor. In this video the ISOs have been locked at 500 emulating what the human eye sees: In the channel then there are lots of examples with the latest action cameras. From my experience, in the Mediterranean a red/cyan filter works up to 12 meters, maybe 15 with a mirrorless with a decent sensor. Then it's also a matter of taste of course. Regarding the Mediterranean. Sure, there are greener and bluer areas, but when it comes to green or blue water filters, the Mediterranean is always considered quite green precisely because of the characteristic type of plankton. Perhaps some spots such as the Aeolian or Pelagian islands are exceptions. For example in the Tuscan archipelago even when you have 30+ meters of visibility, when you do CC you will always find yourself removing a more or less green dominant. Where do you dive?

You don't want to throw away a Keldan, do you? What model is it? Once you repair the flooded one, if you have a pair, they will be very easy to sell. They are very rare in the used market, and there is a reason for that. BTW I didn't know there were vacuum valve lights. I think it's unique. It depends on your use but if you have a Keldan CRI you will find huge differences in color correction in post. Impossible to compare them with the BigBlue ones that don't even have constant output. Again, they are the cheapest on the market for a reason. I see they are used mostly as model lights to enlight caves and wrecks.