Hello all,

I’ve started looking into 67mm dual flip options for my rig (Nauticam compact housing) and have two questions for those who use dual flip mounts:

1. How does the Nauticam Dual Flip compare to the AOI M67 Dual Flip and the Marelux Dual Flip? Are there any specific reasons to choose one over the others?
   
   

2. Does the Nauticam Dual Flip, or others allow you to choose the mounting directions to mount lenses at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock?

   I have very limited space on my rig, and the best workable setup would be having the lenses mounted at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock. I’ve seen a lot of 12/3 o’clock configurations, but I have an arm at 12 o’clock, so I’d need to avoid that if possible. I think the AOI allows flexible mounting directions, but what about the other two?
   

3. Do flip adapters increase vignetting, compared to screwing a diopter directly onto the port?

Thanks in advance!

Ben

Edited July 3Jul 3 by bghazzal

1 hour ago, bghazzal said:

Hello all,

I’ve started looking into 67mm dual flip options for my rig (Nauticam compact housing) and have two questions for those who use dual flip mounts:

1. How does the Nauticam Dual Flip compare to the AOI M67 Dual Flip and the Marelux Dual Flip? Are there any specific reasons to choose one over the others?
   
   

2. Does the Nauticam Dual Flip, or others allow you to choose the mounting directions to mount lenses at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock?

   I have very limited space on my rig, and the best workable setup would be having the lenses mounted at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock. I’ve seen a lot of 12/3 o’clock configurations, but I have an arm at 12 o’clock, so I’d need to avoid that if possible. I think the AOI allows flexible mounting directions, but what about the other two?
   

3. Do flip adapters increase vignetting, compared to screwing a diopter directly onto the port?

Thanks in advance!

Ben

I only have a single flip from Saga Dive, it does not increase vignetting in my rig, or at least I haven’t seen any difference at all.

The single flip it is screwed on the port then you can choose the exact angle that you need to be mounted.

The double flip from Saga, if I’m not wrong, you cannot choose the angle, is like fixed 10-2 setup.

Sorry, I cannot help with the others brands.

I think that my double flip is a Saga, but would have to check to be sure. It can be clocked however you want. It attaches as described by @canislupus for the single flip as well. I have not noticed any vignetting from it, but I don't shoot any wide angle shots either.

23 hours ago, canislupus said:

I only have a single flip from Saga Dive, it does not increase vignetting in my rig, or at least I haven’t seen any difference at all.

The single flip it is screwed on the port then you can choose the exact angle that you need to be mounted.

The double flip from Saga, if I’m not wrong, you cannot choose the angle, is like fixed 10-2 setup.

Sorry, I cannot help with the others brands.

19 hours ago, SwiftFF5 said:

I think that my double flip is a Saga, but would have to check to be sure. It can be clocked however you want. It attaches as described by @canislupus for the single flip as well. I have not noticed any vignetting from it, but I don't shoot any wide angle shots either.

Great, thanks - I've started looking into the Saga - can you confirm the dual flip can be positioned with a diopter on both sides (3 and 9 o'clock)?

Also I've read somewhere that in some cases the diopters are not fully aligned with some ports with the Saga - what you make of that? I'd use it on a Nauticam M67 compact port

thanks!

13 minutes ago, bghazzal said:

Great, thanks - I've started looking into the Saga - can you confirm the dual flip can be positioned with a diopter on both sides (3 and 9 o'clock)?

Also I've read somewhere that in some cases the diopters are not fully aligned with some ports with the Saga - what you make of that? I'd use it on a Nauticam M67 compact port

thanks!

Hi,

The Saga flip has two pieces, the flip itself and another that is the one that screws onto the port.

In the single one you simply move the flip and screw at the desired angle.

I don’t have the double flip, but for what I see in the image from Saga is like fixed position 10-2, but like SwiftFF5 have pointed out you can move that 10-2 at the position you like. But I’m not sure you can have it at 9-3.

Hope that helps.

I am adding some photos for clarification.

Edited July 4Jul 4 by canislupus

Thanks a lot - I've tried emailing Saga, hope I'll get an answer - 10 - 2 o'clock could probably work.

I'm a little worried about port size as well, since it's for a compact, so short port. For macro I have my lights really close to the port (and floats on the the arms) so it really depends on where the diopters end up 😅

Edited July 4Jul 4 by bghazzal

I have the single flip holder from Nauticam, and its position must be at 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock. The flip has two parts that fit into two small cuts on the Nauticam flat port.

I don't know if it's the same for Nauticam's double flip holder.

1 hour ago, canislupus said:

Hi,

The Saga flip has two pieces, the flip itself and another that is the one that screws onto the port.

In the single one you simply move the flip and screw at the desired angle.

I don’t have the double flip, but for what I see in the image from Saga is like fixed position 10-2, but like SwiftFF5 have pointed out you can move that 10-2 at the position you like. But I’m not sure you can have it at 9-3.

Hope that helps.

I am adding some photos for clarification.

Also, do you get a gap between the lens and the port on the Saga flip? I'm new to these so not sure how they work. I would have on Nauticam CMC1 (so with the protruding end bit, which should be fine), but also a flat AOI +6...

Reason I'm asking is this thread: https://waterpixels.net/forums/topic/767-67mm-flip-adapters-and-attached-accessories/

Thanks

Hi,

I have used with S&S DX Macro Port 87 and both Nikkor macro 85mm and 105mm on Nikon D300 and D500.

I haven't noticed any vignetting at all.

There is indeed a little gap from the flip itself.

The Nauticam dual is good. Not a 10 out of 10 - about 7.5.

You can orient at 10 and 2 or 7 and 4 I believe.

Have any one try using Marelux dual flip with Nauticam wet lens? I have Marelux housing for R6II and looking forward to use the dual flip with MFO-1 and SMC-3. Or it is better to use Nauticam dual flip on Marelux housing?

On 7/13/2025 at 7:50 PM, hedonist222 said:

The Nauticam dual is good. Not a 10 out of 10 - about 7.5.

You can orient at 10 and 2 or 7 and 4 I believe.

Is it not too cumbersome to have two lenses protruding out when you want to shoot without any diopters? Particularly as it relates to strobe placement?

Never used double flip holders so quite curious

21 minutes ago, waterpixel said:

Is it not too cumbersome to have two lenses protruding out when you want to shoot without any diopters? Particularly as it relates to strobe placement?

Never used double flip holders so quite curious

That’s a good question. I didn’t like using one close-up lens with a flip holder. It felt in the way. Two???

Well, I shoot video and so I use video lights not strobes, but it has not been a problem for me. I can orient them so that they don't interfere.

42 minutes ago, TimG said:

That’s a good question. I didn’t like using one close-up lens with a flip holder. It felt in the way. Two???

I do this all the time. I don't find it to be a problem with the Nauticam dual flip. I use it with either two diopters like a MFO-1 and SubSee +10, or a wet wide Kraken KRL-09s and MFO-1.

I usually have a Backscatter MF-2 / Snoot on one side when shooting macro. This easily maneuvers around the lenses. An HF-1 is on the other side.

All of these add-on lenses make the camera front heavy, so I use a custom ring float on the macro port to offset some of the weight and improve balance.

15 hours ago, TimG said:

That’s a good question. I didn’t like using one close-up lens with a flip holder. It felt in the way. Two???

One is cumbersome enough, agreed. But if you’re one for punishment …

You can change the placement of the lens holder on the Nauticam flip: just move the set pins with a 1.5mm allen wrench.

IMG_0774.heic

7 hours ago, humu9679 said:

One is cumbersome enough, agreed. But if you’re one for punishment …

IMG_0774.heic

Thank you Sir, give me another!

On 8/29/2025 at 11:02 AM, Dave_Hicks said:

I do this all the time. I don't find it to be a problem with the Nauticam dual flip. I use it with either two diopters like a MFO-1 and SubSee +10, or a wet wide Kraken KRL-09s and MFO-1.

I usually have a Backscatter MF-2 / Snoot on one side when shooting macro. This easily maneuvers around the lenses. An HF-1 is on the other side.

All of these add-on lenses make the camera front heavy, so I use a custom ring float on the macro port to offset some of the weight and improve balance.

That custom macro port ring float looks great. How did you make it?

2 minutes ago, Babydiver said:

That custom macro port ring float looks great. How did you make it?

Yes. 3D printed and tested to 100 feet. It adds about 300g of buoyancy and helps balance the system when I have diopters attached.

I have designs for the Port87, Port60, and Port60+20mm extension. I haven't shared any of these yet because they are a complex print with a number of custom configurations. Plus, it might spring a leak past the depth I've tested. I need to take it on a few dives to at least 140ft to stress it more.

1 minute ago, Dave_Hicks said:

Yes. 3D printed and tested to 100 feet. It adds about 300g of buoyancy and helps balance the system when I have diopters attached.

I have designs for the Port87, Port60, and Port60+20mm extension. I haven't shared any of these yet because they are a complex print with a number of custom configurations. Plus, it might spring a leak past the depth I've tested. I need to take it on a few dives to at least 140ft to stress it more.

Unfortunately, I have an AOI housing and have no design skills or 3D printer myself.

14 hours ago, Dave_Hicks said:

Yes. 3D printed and tested to 100 feet. It adds about 300g of buoyancy and helps balance the system when I have diopters attached.

I have designs for the Port87, Port60, and Port60+20mm extension. I haven't shared any of these yet because they are a complex print with a number of custom configurations. Plus, it might spring a leak past the depth I've tested. I need to take it on a few dives to at least 140ft to stress it more.

Would you be able to do a quick calculation on what the lift would be for an N85 Port 65? I'm trying to decide if it's worth pursuing vs other options such as getting one made with aluminum (manual machining is easier for me than CAD ironically)

6 hours ago, Grantmac said:

Would you be able to do a quick calculation on what the lift would be for an N85 Port 65? I'm trying to decide if it's worth pursuing vs other options such as getting one made with aluminum (manual machining is easier for me than CAD ironically)

I would guess in the range of 250g of buoyancy based on my design for the Port60. If the overall housing is smaller than N120 housings, it might be less as the diameter would have to be smaller.

Just out of curiosity, how would you go about machining a hollow object with aluminum? This port floats I made include a recess and screw holes to bolt it to the port. I have no idea if the mounting holes could be made, or if it would even be practical. Maybe just attach with friction.

7 hours ago, Grantmac said:

Would you be able to do a quick calculation on what the lift would be for an N85 Port 65? I'm trying to decide if it's worth pursuing vs other options such as getting one made with aluminum (manual machining is easier for me than CAD ironically)

Are you asking how much lift you could design into a float designed for a Macro port 65? If you assume an ID of 75mm and 20mm wide annulus so an OD of 115mm, the port is about 75mm long this gives a displacement of 450 cm3, so the buoyancy would be in the order of 450 minus the weight of the float collar in grams. the straight wall part of the port is only 60mm long and if the float is this long it would displace 360 cm3 so in this case the buoyancy would be 360- float collar weight in grams.

A 20mm wide annulus might be a bit much though, with my housing it would extend beyond the housing base so the housing would rest on the float collar rather than the base of the housing.

I'd use thin walled aluminum tube for the ID and OD and machine some plates to seal the ends. Possibly just epoxy them on. I'd attach via friction.

I'd still prefer a 3D printed option since I could make it a lot more conformal including some specific cut-outs for my housing and to allow me to access the bayonet release.

I've also tossed around the idea of a conformal float base which would also be a simple DPV mount. Having the floation as close to the center of the housing as possible seems to make tilt a lot easier to accomplish vs on the arms.

On 8/29/2025 at 6:44 PM, waterpixel said:

Is it not too cumbersome to have two lenses protruding out when you want to shoot without any diopters? Particularly as it relates to strobe placement?

Never used double flip holders so quite curious

Cannot recall ever needing to place the strobe(s) next to where an unused diopter is.

The cumbersome part is transporting and storing on boat.