9 hours ago, Chris Ross said:

I really think the fundamental problem is the response curve of the camera. That's not a fault rather that is how they are designed. The way around I think is to reduce the exposure. Easiest is lowering the ISO if possible, but looks like you at ISO 50 already, so maybe place a grey card on the wall and measure brightness off that or double the strobe's distance from the wall. You might run into problems at the low power end, but within the limitations of equipment you have available seems like this might be the best solution. You would need separate sets of measurements for the high and low powers.

Also as I understand it ISO 50 on the Z8 is extended ISO which is achieved by over exposing the image and pulling the exposure down which tends to blow highlights. Maybe for the Z8 base ISO might be a better option?

Some good ideas there. I might experiment with more range and a gray card.

On 1/28/2026 at 7:34 AM, Adventurer said:

Michi, if I read Dave & Killiii correctly than the Maxi is not what you are looking for and simply unable to deliver at these fps.

The Backscatter HF-1 is able to do it (I own and tested this) but there is brightness variation and quite a few blackout frames every few cycles in burst shooting.

The only strobe which is currently doing what you are looking for and which delivers zero light variations and zero blackout frames at high burst for more than 100 frames is the MARELUX Apollo III 2.0 in MTL Mode - which I also happen to own. I would subscribe to everything Henley Spiers wrote in his review:

DivePhotoGuide

First Impressions of the Marelux Apollo III 2.0 Strobe

Both my Backscatter HF-1 and Apollo deliver warmer light than my friends Seacam and old Retra, with a very simple fix I received from Hydronalin, Germany.

Hi, @Adventurer thx a lot for your personal advice and feedback! I guess for now the Apollo is the best product for me

@Dave_Hicks thx for all the effort so far - I appreciate this! it would be still nice if you can set your Camera to 10/15 frames per second and see what the Maxi does compared to the Backscatter a simillar decent power level! If this is not possible, just Let me know (i can Imagine how time consuming These Tests can be…)!

@Kiliii Yuyan thx for your great Test and all the effort - very interesting

I understand with a passing shark 5 shots per second or so is great but with for example a blenny eating algae from Seagrass and catching that exact Moment of the bite a high burst mode changes Everything…

Edited 18 hours ago18 hr by Michi

I took a break from shooting strobes at walls and went diving!

The assignment this time was CFWA with a 15mm fisheye lens and the Maxi's with a warming filter and reduction rings. Visibility was a pretty hazy silty 15ft / 5m so reduction rings were a big help.

Nikon Z8 w/8-15mm Fisheye lens, f11@1/30s iso400, Pair of Retra Maxi strobes with 4500k filters

Nikon Z8 w/8-15mm Fisheye lens, f11@1/30s iso400, Pair of Retra Maxi strobes with 4500k filters

Nikon Z8 w/8-15mm Fisheye lens, f11@1/40s iso640, Pair of Retra Maxi strobes with 4500k filters

Dive buddy Nirupam testing out a Nikon ZR / Ikelite setup.