Grantmac

Mine is a two cell board and I might get 40 hours total on name brand cells. I'll be going rechargeable.

I'd be fine charging every 5th dive if it means I can't kill a fresh set through leaving it on for a day by accident.

My use case is more to disable the sensor so I can do an overnight soak without first opening the housing and not run the battery down.

Dave I believe that is their existing MF fisheye, although likely the optics will be the same. Whether it can outperform an adapted Canon on Sony will be interesting to see. The MF version isn't considered quite as good but perhaps having a more compact lens will be worth it. Unless it's based on some sort of DSLR focal distance with built in adapters which apparently they've done with other lenses.

A mirrorless native 8-15 fisheye is very exciting indeed, especially if they do a Sony FE mount.

I don't have any pictures with me, but I use DIY Dyneema soft shackles attached to the top clamps. Strong enough they will never break, won't corrode or damage anything and you can cut them if needed. Extremely cheap as well. I have a boltsnap attached to one side and an empty one on the other.

I'm likely getting the Kraken M16 so I can just leave my housing under vacuum for most of a trip. As I've found recently though the Nauticam leak sensor will rip through a set of batteries in a few days if left on. I am thinking perhaps of a magnetic reed switch to allow it to be turned on and off without opening the housing?

Since we're discussing extension rings: could we do integrated floatation on them? I've wondered about using N120 ports with N100 to N120 adapter plus custom extensions rather than the N100 ports usually used on my Sony as a means of adding floation.

Even with the detect turned off at least on my Sony they won't let you run both the screen showing settings along with the EVF showing picture, unless you manually toggle between them. It's too bad to not have a way to use that feature since I would like it I think.

I'd get the DPV to stop rolling on its own. Possibly look at buoyancy up top and some weight on the bottom.

The 8-15 and 140mm seems like the most sense to me, especially since you have the lens and can add a TC. I do some casual river snorkeling in the PNW but haven't been able to shoot a salmon spawn yet.

I also lost a shackle from a Nauticam MP clamp and I'm considering if I want to do a different attachment. Perhaps a large split ring or soft connection of some sort.

I wonder if the tight base is to prevent breaking off the plastic shaft?

A set of measurements should really be sufficient you'd think. Not like it's a mechanism. Im likely passing through Seattle in the next week then a week after, could do a drop off on my way.

I need to get you my N100 Port 105 if I can stop using it all the time.

I'm interested but can't seem to find them on ebay?

Looks like underwater light and magic makes a converter: Underwater Light and MagicINON Z240/D2000 to Z330/D200 Strobe ConverterThis converter enables older Z240/D2000 strobes to be converted to use the Z330/D200 fitment, making them compatible with all Z330/D200 accessories available in our store, including beam restrictors,I don't know if it would have the strength to carry a strobe however.

The Canon apparently only vignettes slightly on Sony FF bodies and only at distance. The idea would be for a wider lens. Interestingly the little 30mm Sony ASP-C macro covers a larger area of the FF sensor than you'd think and is quite fast. So if I can find a port to fit it that would be a wider option that can basically focus on the glass.

I have the 90mm and port, which I understand can also fit the Canon 60mm and metabones. It's my intent to adapt the Canon 8-15 at some point in the future so the adapter is coming one way or another. Other than a bit of vignette on longer shots and the ability to shoot two FL on one dive, is there any other reason to prefer the MFO?

How difficult would it be to adapt to a Z240?

Thanks Dave!

I'd look at a used Nauticam or Aquatica housing for the Z6/7 I-II over a Ikelite personally. The consensus seems to be that you'll be using the EVF with an add-on viewfinder pretty soon if you are serious about using a mirrorless.

In my experience the dome doesn't have anywhere near as much drag as the strobes and arms. Maybe because it rides within the bow-wave of the DPV? But also I'm using smaller than 180mm so far.

Is there any sort of mounting point on the back of the monitor? Or I guess to short float arms to a triple clamp could work. Just trying to think of ways which then don't need even more flotation to compensate for.

This is a situation where some sort of mount fabricated to fit on a rigid float arm might be an option, especially since the monitor is quite negative. How much freedom of movement do you need?